1982 1946 carb rebuild specs?

[Anonymous]

I'm getting ready to set the float lower to help eliminate my fuel bowl boil out. I bought a carb kit from NAPA p/n 5871A, which specifies the float is to be flush with the casting. My first kit (NAPA p/n 3-1413) specifies the float at 3/64. Both kits are for my car (82 Fairmont) and match my carb #. Which setting is right?
Carb # is E2BE-CA
Thanks[/code]

 

[james singleton]

I am not trying to hijack your post, but possibly if I can determine which carb I have, I can help you with your question! I bought a carburetor kit a month or so ago (that I have not installed as yet)! Maybe you can help me determine whether I have a 1940 Holley or a 1946 Holley carb; and I can inturn see if the instructions that came with my carb kit is similar to what your instructions say!??? The carb that I have was purchased somewhere around 1980, and the instruction sheet (which I still have) shows two pictures; one of the Model 1940 Carb replacement (which looks like my carb), and also Model 1100! But someone on an earlier posting had said that the 1940 Model does not have the SCV on it; and my carb definitely has an SCV! So I am not sure whether I have the 1940 or the 1946 Carb. Do you have a SCV on your 1946 Carb???? Thanks, Jim

 

[SteveS]

I'd like to know too. I have the same problem with my 82 Cougar wagon. I've set the float both ways with no difference except the engine hesitates at the lower setting.

I've been living with this for 4.5 years! Starting the engine can be a challenge after letting it sit for 20 minutes. It acts just like it's flooded...which it is.

I was thinking of replacing the spacer with some other material but as you know there is very little room between the aircleaner and hood.

 

[80Stang]

One vote for 3/64: the Hygrade rebuild kit #978B specifies that too.

james, there are pics of a 1946 at my website. Check out the 'Picture repository'. You should easily see if yours look the same.

 

[james singleton]

80Stang, Thanks, I looked at your pictures on your website; some really nice pictures. What a clean looking engine! I looked at your pictures of the 1946 Holley Carb and I don't see a SCV; unless I am mistaken! I still believe that I have a 1940 Model Holley with a SCV! I have seen pictures of what were suppose to be 1940 Models, and I have seen the various 1940 Models that "Did" have the SCV and other supposedly 1940 Models that "Did Not" have the SCV (only the cavity for a SCV; but none installed). I am not sure if this is what causes the confusion or not??? I am thinking that the 1940 Model had the option of an SCV installed or not; depending on which type of distributor you are using! In my case, I have the stock Load-a-matic distributor so it would make sense for me to have a carb with the SCV! If anybody else has any further info, or can confirm my suspicions, please jump in!
Thanks, Jim

 

[james singleton]

FTEUFERT, This probably won't help you on setting/adjusting your carb bowl because my instructions are for the 1940 Holley carb kit and not the 1946 Model like you have! But here is the instruction that came with the 1940 kit for Dry Float Level Adjustment: "FLOAT BOWL INVERTED AND FLOAT PIN HELD IN PLACE BY FLOAT PIN RETAINER. TOE OF EACH FLOAT SHOULD JUST TOUCH STRAIGHT EDGE HELD ACROSS SURFACE OF FLOAT BOWL."

Looking at the picture associated with the instruction above, it appears that with the carb held upside down, that the toe (or the end of float furthest away from where the pin that the float pivots on) is adjusted so that it is in line with a straight edge that would be placed across the top of the float bowl! Hope that makes sense!?? Good luck! Jim

 

[mustang6]

have seen pictures of what were suppose to be 1940 Models, and I have seen the various 1940 Models that "Did" have the SCV and other supposedly 1940 Models that "Did Not" have the SCV (only the cavity for a SCV; but none installed).

I think these variations fit with this model carburetor's role as a replacement carb. Holley probably wanted to make a single replacement carb to fit all the Ford small sixes, but did their homework and found the pre-1968 sixes required a different vacuum signal for the Load-o-matic distributors. So they made different versions of the same model- one with SCV for the pre-68's and and one without for the later years.

 

[Drives a 5]

I lived with the 1946 boilover problem on my 82 Fairmont for a long time. I used the standard hygrade rebuild, set the floats to various levels, made a phenolic spacer to insulate from exhaust heat, and I don't remember what all else - needless to say nothing worked.

So I swapped to a Holley 2300 350cfm 2 barrel and never looked back! I got a rebuilt one off ebay, a chevy spacer from summit, an efi (87-93) mustang throttle cable, made some simple brackets, and it all cost around 200 bucks and was well worth it. It eliminated every annoying problem that I wasted time screwing around with forever on the 1946: It idles good, runs smooth, starts when cold, doesn't boil over, and doesn't hesitate (all things my 1946 did).

Sweet fairmont, by the way. I like the 2 tone.

Anyway, I know you're asking about fixing the 1946, but I just thought I'd throw that out there since I've been there

 

[james singleton]

Mustang6, Your explanation makes sense to me about the 1940 Model carb, and that the manufacturer was covering their bases by having basically the same carb, but one that would have an SCV, and the same carb/body without an SCV installed. Maybe that is why there has been some confusion on this matter (whether the 1940 has an SCV or not!)! Jim

 

[SteveS]

Per the "Motor Manual" for 1980 there are two settings for the floats. One for California and one for the other 49 states with the 1946 carb. I've used both settings and neither solved the problem. The lower setting did cause hesitation but the higher setting does not.

California prohibits changing out the carb to something else as Califonia equipped vehicles never got the two barrel option. I wonder if the boil over problem was there as new or is there some other explanation.

I've never seen gas dripping out of the float bowl vent nor have I been able to see gas dripping from anywhere else for that matter. But, I know it must be as there definately is a rich condition after about 15-20 minutes. 5 minutes is OK as is 35 minutes.

I've never had a drivablilty (hesitation) problem like Drives a 5 though.

 

[Anonymous]

I rerouted the fuel line over the valve cover, but it didn't help. I was going to make a insulator for under the carb, but the thick gasket that comes with the kit is probably as good as anything I could make. My carb has gas "perculating" on the throttle blades when you look into the carb after shutting it down, but the fuel bowl does not actually empty, since I can get a few good squirts when I open the throttle. I guess I will leave the float where it is, since I have no hesitation. I will either go with the 2300 or my old trusty GM 1bbl monojet. Thanks guys