200 not enough power??

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i am seeing how everyone has their 200ci engine pushing a t-5 tranny and at least an 8.8" rearend behind it, but all of your engines from what i have seen are modified to make more horsepower and torque...but does the stock 200ci engine stack up when it comes to a big tranny and rearend? if it does what kind of rear gears do you run? my 200 is a little tired also, do you think it could handle the bigger heavier drivetrain untill i could rebuild it and pack it with performance upgrades?
 
Well, I can't say with the 8.8" rear (or I assume you mean the 8" rear end). I don't think anyone is running a 9" rear end with a 200.

I ran my T-5 in a close to stock engine for about 6 months. The only modification was a warmed up cam, but only a 260H from Comp Cam. It increased valve lift and duration slightly, but nothing crazy. At the time, I had the stock 6 4 lug rear end with 3.20 gears. I loved the T5. It really helped keep the engine in the power range better then the old 2.77 it replaced.

Slade
 
I have a bone stock 200 with an Autolite 1100 from Pony Carbs. C4 with a stock 3.0 rear end. Pertronix ignition, flamethrower coil and exhuast headers are the my add-ons. Right there it is peppier. Like patch out on flat ground. I did a ram air from the radiator wall to the stock air cleaner horn and it really perked up on the the freeway.
Start with the electronic ignition, either Ptrnx (cheapest), Duraspark (more expensive) or FPSS right here, which will be my next upgrade. The exhaust headers will help it breathe better and a less restrictive exhuast.
 
The T-5 is a light, efficient 5-speed that matches well with the 200. No need for a 9" or an 8.8 IMO, unless you just happen to be able to get one for cheap, but aside from being heavy, will transfer power as easily as a smaller 8".

The best way to build a car is to get the bones right first. A good chassis with good suspension, steering, and brakes is more fun to drive even if the engine is weaker than you want. Later, when you have the funds/time/ability, etc. the chassis will be up for the power. The worst thing is to have a powerful drivetrain and a lousy chassis and suspension.
 
Howdy Back Nick And all:

I'd be interested to know what vehicle you're working with. What transmission? Is it a daily driver or a garage queen? What are your goals for the car?

Much can be done to improve stock or modified performance, but it is best to have a coordinated plan in mind before you start.

Adios, David
 
Why don't you get Davids book on performance improvement. It will give you many ideas and answer a lot of questions for you. He's just too humble to mention it, so I will. Click the link under his sig. You won't regret it.
 
We just switched to WC T-5 with V6 gearing. WOW! The 2.77 with 2.7 rear geared 8" was a dog even with a warmed up 200. The T-5 made a world of difference. It's great.
 
CZLN6: I have a 66 mustang coupe. its the sprint 200 version and it has a pertronix ignition..everything else is stock, 2.77 tranny, and whatever stock gears were in the rearend...its my daily driver but im lookeng for something that can keep up with the guys with stock v-8's 300-350 hp...

as for the rearend i really would like to have a 5 lug bolt pattern for wheels....as far as what ive seen there is a much better selection of wheels in the 5 lug pattern but unless i can find axles that fit my rearend with 5 lug hubs on them, i might have to change rears which i would prefer not to...

the T-5 really sounds like a good investment..plus i like the idea of having closer gear ratios...the three speed with its super tall gears sort of gets irritating if you know what i mean(with the exhaust sounds and all...just sounds plain bad to me) also speed and reliability wise...my 200 seems to produce much more power at lower rpms and the T-5 as i understand it will keep the car hitting the lower rpm ranges more often creating better acceleration? just my theory...
 
'nother question-is the stock rearend on my car(7.5'' or whatever it is) easy to find parts for to rebuild it? id like to rebuild it and put posi in it or at least a limited slip...can i find ring gears and pinions easy also? or is it so old and uncommon that its basicly a lost cause???
 
your correct the I6 makes its power at lower rpm.

I would guess that you have drum brakes all around, if you want to start making more power the first thing i would do is get some disk brakes on the front end.

I would guess you have an 8" rear end and yes parts are available for them, and there are also lots of ways to get 5 lug on the rear with stock rear ends.

shoot i have extra rear ends with 5 lug stuff on them. but hidden valley auto parts in maricopa had lots of them last time i was there.

the other way is to just redrill the drums for 5 lug.

hope this helps.
 
Welcome to the forum stanggy.

Possible that he has an 8" but highly unlikely unless somebody swapped it in. Most 6cyl mustangs came with an 7.25 rear axle that is somewhat hard to find parts for, some members on here have found lockers and rebuild kits by excercising patience and watching many sources like ebay. The easy visual way to check if you have an 7.25 vs 8" is to look under the rear of the car, if you see a backing plate on the rearend it is a 7.25, if it looks smooth and you do not see any bolts then it is either an 8" or 9" (more checking required to determine which one it is). If it is a 4 bolt 8" it would be out of an early 70's Maverick, and parts should be easily found. If it is a 9" i have no idea where you found it, but pictures sure would be interesting.

-ron
 
Howdy Back Nick:

Here's an idea. Take a look on the driver's side door jam for a build plate. It will give codes for "Axle". If you will post it someone will look up the axle ratio for you. If it is a number is is an open rearend. If it is a letter it is an Equa-Lock differential. The stock '66 7.25" rear is quite tough. They seldom break all at once. They just start to howl, leak and get loose. (Hey, that sounds like me) and gradually decline. Parts are available but scarce. If you have to rebuild, an 8" from an early 70 Maverick/Comet is a better choice.

If you do go to a T5 as your first upgrade you will not mind the typical, low ratio as much because of the overdrive 5th gear. And you are right about your engine feeling stronger as you are able to keep it in its power band better.

A five lug axle does allow more choices in wheels, but there are other limiting factors as well. Changing the rear axle is not too difficult, changing the front hubs to 5 lug is more of a committment. There are better ways to spend your time and money, in my opinion. Please do heed those who suggested you spend some time and money on making your brakes and suspension safe.

It would be good if you had a plan, or vision of what you want to have when you finish, how much you want to spend, and how you want to enjoy this car. I always like to start with the free or cheap and easy upgrades, get a plan and then prioritize.

The T5 upgrade is a relatively expensive and complicated one, but one of the most satisfying for folks who like to drive their babies.

Your choice.

Adios, David
 
yup sorry 7.25. thoes are more difficult to get parts for.

CZLN6 has the right idea to swap to an 8" which makes my early post make more sense
 
okay..so now from what ive gathered from this post..i am switching to an 8" with a locking diff and 5 lug axles and a T-5...the other things i originally planned on doing also include new springs shocks front and rear sway bars disk brakes all the way around v-8 spindles and hubs 5 lug wheels subframe connectors traction bars monte carlo bar driveshaft high performance clutch plus lots of engine mods(triple carbs or blower or both! headers etc etc)and some trick body parts!

where is an easy place to find an old 8"??? and are the 70' comet/maveric rears a direct bolt in or are there extensive modifacations that need to be done?
 
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