200 rebuild

Ron R

Well-known member
Ok so I have a 1968 block 200 that was rebuilt and taken .30 over and the crank is 10/10. Stock rebuild with 9-1 compression for the stock 68 head.

I am putting a 1976 large log/valve head on it with new guids/srings 3 angle bla bla bla (the 68 head is toast). I polished the combustion chambers and cleaned up the head like the Falcon book says.
And will be decking the head .60?

Its all going in a 63 falcon convertable. I have a C-4 out of a 76 mavrick that I will have rebuilt to go in it. I will be using a DUI dist. and the Pony Carb 1 bl carb.

The only question I have is what Cam should I be running?

Also I will have the 76 stock exhaust manifold and am using stock rockers that are non adj.

I would like a little more bang for the buck but would like for it to sound stock and run nice.

Thanks
 
Classic inlines has the 264/274/112° and the 268/274/112°.
A 112° LC is usually recommended for good vacuum for the automatic tranny.
 
Thanks Guys !!!
I will run with a 2 1/4 out of the manifold and into something really quiet.
Might even run two mufflers. Its a nice driver and we do a few shows/cruzes in it every year and my wife like it quiet as it can be.

Anyone know what the stock color for a 1963 Falcon Vert motor should be? I think its black with a orange air cleaner, but a few guys around work say every ford motor ever made is Blue and it should have a gold air cleaner.

Thanks
Ron R.
 
I'd deck the block before attacking the head. You'll loose more volume "quicker" by decking the block than removing material on the head. The bore is a larger area than the head.

I bought an adjustable rock arm set from e-bay when I deck my block and milled the head. With that much removed (1/16" = 0.062) for your cylinder head/block, I'd buy a set if I was you.
 
I just got mine runing with a 268/274 (110) and it is far from stock sounding. I have three single barrel carbs and dual out headers with dual exhaust.
I think a 268/274 will be too much cam with only a 1 barrel and stock exhaust manifold.

Gene
 
mugsy":2zqmv7s6 said:
I'd deck the block before attacking the head. You'll loose more volume "quicker" by decking the block than removing material on the head. The bore is a larger area than the head.

I bought an adjustable rock arm set from e-bay when I deck my block and milled the head. With that much removed (1/16" = 0.062) for your cylinder head/block, I'd buy a set if I was you.

The short block is all ready rebuilt and done.
The head off of it was toast so it took me a few weeks to find one.
Thats way the head is just now getting into the shop.
And Im just looking for a nice running stocker.
 
I had the machine shop take 0.030 off the block and about 0.040 off the head (it was a '77 250 head) to get the 9.3:1 CR I was looking for. What is the deck height on the short block? zero deck is a good thing.. but I understand you not wanting to have to modify it again...
 
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