250 xflow turbo rods

[Anonymous]

guys im new here and i need help im curently in the midle of building a turbo 250 for my te corty but i get diferent views from engine builders as to the rods.will they be strong enough to rev to 6500.200 rods would be better but are they any stronger than 250 rods?or has anyone tried 265 hemi rods.(cheers matt)

 

[Anonymous]

I think the rods from an EL 4ltr OHC engine are the ones to go for

 

[Anonymous]

are they the same lenght

 

[Anonymous]

yes they are the same length, thats what i am/will be using but with a ef crank.

How did you go getting a new block?, i seen your post on ford forums.

Cheers

Simon

 

[Anonymous]

yes they are the same length, thats what i am/will be using but with a ef crank.

How did you go getting a new block?, i seen your post on <a href="http://www.ntsearch.com/search.php?q=ford&v=56">ford</a> forums.

Cheers

Simon

i bought one from the wreckers prety cheap and im curently pulling it down.also mate with the rods from ef-el how much custom work is it to use these rods with a 250 crank.and by using the rods does it solve the weekness problem with big revs.

 

[addo]

<a href="http://www.ntsearch.com/search.php?q=ford&v=56">ford</a>

Hey Simon - you better run Spybot 1.3!

 

[Anonymous]

i've just built a turbo 250 not running yet, but i just used stock rods, shot peened, polised, re-sized etc but im observing a 6000 rev limit, generally 5 and a half if i dont miss gear changes hehe. whats the specs gonna b on ur motor? mines T04B(wish it was a T04E but oh well) twin 2" SU's(should of gone efi) roller rockers, forgies, stock crank(better bloody hold up....) chrome moly puchrods, all arp studs and rod bolts, double valve springs the list goes on, will most likely run about 16-18psi hoping for around 400hp and 11's in a cortina wagon... from what im told i wouldnt rev it to 6500 with any standard rods, though aftermarket ones are pretty pricey

 

[xctasy]

Considering the beam width, 400 hp is about the limit. The rev range is more restricted by oil splash and the vibration ridden 200 Ford based timing gear our Aussie 250's ran. US 250's carried a thicker timing chain gear, crank snout and balancer section.

The 250 rods are rather spindly on beam section compared to the post 98 AU-BA rods.

Cheap options is bushing up a set of import 6.21" 300 I6 rods modify to suit the bearings.

The stock 4.71, 5.88, 6.27 and later 6.06" Ford rods are not super strong.

The AU had a 5500 rpm red line, and the under piston oiled XR6 Turbo rods 5900 rpm or so, but are all the same casting number.

A nice 150 thou plate will ensure the deap dish 1.53" ACL or Ross pistons don't hit the alloy head. With Rover 3.9's running 94 mm bores, and lots of stroker Leyland and Buick engines running close to 305 Chev pistons, there is a lot around. The blanks used can be made to suit many different engines.

The 5.7" 215/245/265 rod can be used with oversize Holden 202 forgies too.

Small journal 5.85, 6.0, 6.2 SB Chevy rods are not uncommon, and may be found if you have contacts.

 

[Anonymous]

you seem to know ur stuff xtaxi, do u rekon the crank and shot-peened rods will hold up to 6 grand? reliably? u rekon 400 hp sounds about right? i just wanna do 11's!

 

[xctasy]

The rod bolts are the main issue. Second is any stress risers from closing and grinding the rods. Third, shot peening is okay if its done right, dye penetrate and magnafluxing are non destructive tests which need to be done at each stage.

The beam thickness is more an issue at 6 grand, as a pristine rod will be clamped well and under lots of load. If its preped correctly, and you follow the good protocols of good Aussie engine builders, it should be just fine.

One thing to note. It's awfull easy to screw up at 200, 2000 or 20 000 buck engine with tiny details messed up. The cost of redoing stock rods is more than a new set forged steel Scats or whatever. It easy to screw up stock rods if they are ground incorrectly. An after market rod is an investment you'll never be sorry over.

 

[Anonymous]

im using 265 rods in mine, the only thing is you have to offset the crank and get pistons made, because of the gudgeon pin is in a different spot

 

[Anonymous]

im using 265 rods in mine, the only thing is you have to offset the crank and get pistons made, because of the gudgeon pin is in a different spot

how do you offset the crank whats involved.also who did you go through to get piston made.my engine builder reckons to go with ross pistons

 

[Anonymous]

Is the hemi rod worth the hassel?
I mean after you offset the crank resize the rods and get a set of custom pistons made, Your no better off then you where with a set of preped 4ltr rods.
After all your still using a STD rod. I know the big ends are beefy on the hemi, but would the beams be that much stronger to warrant the messing around?

By the time you stuffed around trying to get the hemi rods to work it would have been easier and possibly cheaper to fit a set of Argo rods. :|

 

[Anonymous]

to offset the crank i sent my crnak off to a place in melb called crankshaft rebuilders, the pistons are custom forged itmes, because the pin is in a different spot compared to the 250's

 

[Anonymous]

I am still using standard shot peened XE falcon rods. I made 400 rwhp on 15.5 psi. Screwed the boost up to 19.5 psi and messed about with the tune up until I blew a head gasket. After that I O-ringed the head stuck it back on and played around some more until I cracked three of my duralite pistons again sue to pinging on a hot day.

When I stipped the engine my big end bearings were loose in the rods. Pinging causes this so if the pistons didn't fail and the pinging kept up I would have probably spun a bearing.

I put the engine back together with the same rods and they are still going strong.

Moral of the story is get the tune up and combination of turbo sizing camshaft manifolds etc designed right and the standard rods will be fine.

I now how revised my camshaft, turbo sizing, fuel system, cooling system ignition, inlet and exhaust manifolds etc all to ensure the engine can run big boost without pinging. I currently have 370 rwhp with 12 psi at 4500 rpm. A minor misfire at 4500 rpm ended my day at the dyno but the plan was to run 23 psi with 5800 rpm all on standard rods.

I will let you all know if the rods break but I am confident.

 

[Anonymous]

Moral of the story is get the tune up and combination of turbo sizing camshaft manifolds etc designed right and the standard rods will be fine.

Exactly what I was thinking

 

[George]

I Agree with MarkZE,

I have the same standard rods in my engine that I had in a different engine back in 94. I think they will hold over 400hp as long as you don't ping it, or rev it over 5500 too often.

For 400hp, i wouldn't waste my money on modifying rods.

Only my opinion..

cheers.