250crossflow/67 mustang/3 speed maual

[Invectivus]

Hi guys. So my EFI crossflow just showed up, and I'm starting my plan my rebuild, but I'm not certain which engine I have exactly (or if it really matters). The block code looks to be

84DA 6015 A S
there allso seemed to be another code, looked like 11g7D (something else) and a big stamped 4.

I haven't pulled the valve cover yet, but stamed on the front of the alloy head is a 572E.

on the exhaust is I3GDA-82DA-9430-AB

What I'm wondering is 1) Are there and online stored you all would suggest for buying parts? 2) is there a crossflow book, and if so does it follow all of them or do I need one specific to my specific build? 3) it came with an auto Bell, but i'd like to use my three speed US manual. Does the crossflow 250 share a bell pattern with a US engine? 4) Is there someplace i can be pointed to that would explore crossflows in boosted applications?

Hopefully i can plan quickly and get the block and head into the shop soon.

 

[addo]

Contact "asa_67_stang" to see if he'll sell you a manual bellhousing. I know he has extras!

Most are hydro. None have a shared bolt pattern with American-built motors after 1965. Your engine is about 1984 manufacture. The true serial number is probably on the opposite side to your starter, atop the milled surface that abuts the bellhousing. Could be buried in grease.

One online store is "gimmecarparts.com.au" while another is "americanautos.com.au". Expect to pay quite a bit more than you do presently - it's not a cheap country to live in. There's no specific book I'd recommend, but the motors respond well to commonsense and cleanliness.

If you want to push a little more power, consider joining fullboost.com. Plenty of quick sixes there.

 

[Invectivus]

So, i finally got to the seial number on the block. It's JG31HJ 61122.

Looking at this post (http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=18418) it looks like i would guess it to be an aussie/geelong manufactued block out of a Falcon 500 / Falcon GL Wagon, in 1987, September. I guess the 61122 is just a incremental number without any real data to it.

Now in general (since i don't have a book on these yet), can I assume that this info will point me to which manual I should get for the engine, or is it a case of a block is a block, and I need to get info on my top end to point me to a manual?

Basically, i need to know the specs, so I can measure to see if it's been bored (or needs to be), to what size, and what parts to get.

Or, if someone wants to toss me the stock specs, and the normal overbore increments, that would be cool too. I just don't expect it.

 

[XFlow_Fairlane]

same bore as a US model. pretty sure the same applies to crank journal diameters and rod journals.

let me know if you are up for ordering parts. I have a couple xflows sitting in my storage unit (one partial, one carbed and one EFI and a couple spare intakes)

 

[addo]

Same bore as US - 3.680" and crank journals basically the same except for snout diameter (smaller than US 250) and possible variations in thrust bearing design. One piece rear main seal and possible metric flywheel bolts.

Do you have a US engine manual already? It's close enough in terms of torque specs etc, to not be worth buying another. There are no real tricks with these motors; it's all empirical principles including torque plate honing...

 

[Invectivus]

That would be great. I've torn off the intake and the exhaust, I'm trying to get the time to pull the head and measure the bore to find out where it's at, as well as the state of the valvetrain. The engine looks pretty tired from what I've seen so far, so I'm assuming I'm going to have some taper in those cylinders.

It's slow going since I don't have a book, I'm snapping a mess of pics and organizing the pieces. One thing i know i'm missing is the dizzy, and I'll need to wait on that until I know if i'm going to run a tri-coil or not. I'd like to since frankly, I've hated distributors since I was a kid and would rather just use one to run the oil pump (or better yet, find an electric pump). But then, that's all ancillary to getting the engine cleaned up and rebuilt.

 

[addo]

The Bosch ignition is actually a very good, self-contained system. You'd be quite happy with a rebushed and re-curved unit.

Don't mix and match your rod caps as one guy here, nearly did...

 

[Invectivus]

I do have a few books to help me along. I've got a ford fuel injection book, the Chilton ford mustang book (64-73), a couple books on rebuilding smallblock V8's, three different mustang project books, a ford restomod book, and I think that's it. I mean to get myself the falcon six performance book, as i think that will have the most pertinent inline info in it. The chilton isn't really bad, it's just a chore digging though all the stuff that isn't pertinent to my own engine.

I'm pretty good with keeping my internal labeled and together, I've found out the hard way how bad my mrmory is in other areas of my life, i don't want anything unfortunate to happen with an imported engine. That being said, the engine is tired enough I'm thinking of replacing the connecting rods and pistons while it's apart, regardless of whether i need to have the block overbored. Unfortunatly, the question becomes what kind of pistons to get, since i want to invest well in my bottom end, it being so much more of a pain to deal with than the top end. since i'm not sure I'm boosting it, I'm in a bit of a rut. Don't want to invest in forged pistons and their inherant noise during warmup if i don't need to, and the same goes for o-ringing the block. But I don't know how well non-forged pistons would hold up, or if even mild boost will tear up my head gaskat if i don't o-ring the block.

Pfft.

 

[addo]

You should be OK with hypereutectic pistons and a sensible clearance on the block. Turbo and NA builds are different animals in enough ways that you would go for one or the other really. Not worth sitting on the fence and being disappointed twice over!

Rods will be factory forged; keep them as all they need is a little prepping.

 

[XFlow_Fairlane]

would rather just use one to run the oil pump

if you bore the block to take a US dizzy you can swap a 200 gear onto a 2.3L OHC dummy drive (available on some of the 8 plug motors) drops right in and drives the oilpump and makes for a clean install.