32/36 carb linkage help

Timnmelinda

Well-known member
Ok so I am drilling my stovebolt adapter to lower the carb and situate it right , I am thinking maybe the quickest and easiest way to deal with linkage issues would be to go cable, I have to have the car done in less than a month and still have much to do, so I do not have time to go junk yard scrounging.

Does anyone sell a full kit 67 Mustang 200 auto trans for this conversion?

Or

Quick and easy guidance for how best to mod my existing linkage to work for the new setup?

Any plus or minus points to either?

I am redoing this car for my daughter and she is getting it Aug 27 It is her first car, and it is a total suprise for her.
Normally I am very adept at figuring these things out but with my time limits, all help is appreciated (I will not get to do any mechanical work on it til this next weekend) I am finish painting this Tuesday. I still have a gutted interior,seats are still at upholstery shop,full stereo, speakers, amp and sub, new carpet to lay, headers, dual exhaust and DUI to install, finish carb upgrade. color sand and polish, install bumpers and all chrome, replace leaf springs, install new shocks, mags and tires and get it alligned, I am sure there are many things I am forgetting to mention......so I do have a busy month

Really any suggestions for the linkage question will save me headaches and time so I will really appreciate any help!

Tim
 
I think cable is the best route to go. Unfortunantly my solution involves the junkyard but the good news is this setup will be on lots of 70's Fords or Mercurys with sixes. I had to make an adaptor for the bracket to hold my kickdown cable but if you don't need one it's even easier. I used the pedal from the donor car that mounts on the firewall.

bracket1.jpg

bracket2.jpg
 
I have that bracket and a couple of different cables in my garage with a escort pedal with the kickdown...Can you post a shot of how you put the pedal in the car? Would help me a lot.

thanx
 
I just placed it so the pedal was about where the old one was and would travel free. I had to place a 3/8 piece of aluminum block I had behind it to shim it out a little. Then drill 2 holes to bolt it to the firewall and drill another hole for the cable to come through. I also ended up shortening the cable a little to work well. Maybe an inch or so.

I wish the pedal looked a little more stock but it works really well.

pedal.jpg
 
Hey, that looks excellent and much closer to stock than the one I have off of the excort. I may have to make another trip to the yard to get something that looks as good as yours.
 
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