67mustangat16":3ckqy6zx said:
I want to put the progressive carburetor on my 67 stock 200 mustang, but have a couple questions. First, would the 32/36 Weber carb or 5200 weber-holley carb be easier to put on. Second, do I need to buy new linkage for either one. Third, what rating of carb should I get.
Fourth, what parts do I need exactly to do this. I realize I need the adaptor and probably different linkage, but do I need a fuel regulator. Fifth, could I use either carb with a turbo down the road?
Question Zero...you have to replace the Loadomatic distributor with a DUI or Duraspark to operate a 32/36 or 5200 carb.
1 and 2. 32/36 or 5200 is no different to set up. Depending on if you use the Clifford, Langdon Stovebolt, direct mount or factory Capri 2600/2800 90 degree mount, the standard rod link will probably have to be changed to the cable operated one for proper accelertor operation. Fox body cable from 1978 to 1983 Fox body can work well, or one from Lokar.
3rd, better to get a new 32/36 carb rather than a used 5200. Carb ratings are based on the three ratings systems Holley and Weber used for three different breeds of carb, the FVA, the 32/36 DGAS, the 38 mm DGE and the differnent venturi sizes on some versions of the 5200, 5210 and 6500/6520. All make it a little hard to fathom.
4. Either way, a Holley regulator from Summit is mandatory with any Weber, as the stock 6 cylinder fuel pump can provide much more than the 3.5 psi a Weber is designed for. A Clifford or Stovebolt adaptor is easy to get, and the linkage reasonably easy.
5. The problem with a single carb and turbo is that the six cylinders don't get even fuel distribution with a 1-bbl hole in the head. With a direct mount hole, things improve a lot, and with your 32/36 2-bbl, you have a carb which can operate under boost with an Aeromotive or similar Malplasi rising rate fuel pump. The Weber is fine to use in a turbo engine, but you'll need to look at boost referencing the carb, fuel pump and rework the ignition with boost retard. However, turbo carb engines are always prone to detonation due to their inability to cope with air density changes under boost. Carb turbos were made and marketed in the 60's 70's and early 80's, but were never sucessfull, not one was reliable with normal service interventions.
Examples. The draw through 1963 Chev Corvair Monza Turbo, the draw through 1963 Olds Jet Fire F85, the blow through 1979 TVR 3000 Turbo and the blow through 1980 Capri 2800 Turbo were all failures in terms of service and abilities, despite 45% performance boosts. Ford ran a draw through electric enrichment 6500 Holley Weber in the 1979-1981 Turbo 2300 Mustang package, and still had a whole heap of problems with detonation. The draw through 1979-1981 Buicks 231/250 and 1979-1981 Pontiac Trans Am 301 carb turbo engines never really took off and only when EFI blow through set ups were used did the modern Buick GN and GMC Syclone style retro rocket really take off.
One of the best factory turbo carb engines was the 1983 non EFI Mitsubishi Mirage Turbo, Cordia GSR Turbo and Tredia GSR Turbo 105 hp 1.4 and 115hp 1.6 Saturn draw through carb JDM and New Zealand market (Your US Dodge Colt, Cordia, Tredia, but without US emissions gear). This used a Solex 2-bbl draw through carb very similar to the Weber 32/36, and was the only reliable factory blow through carb turbo I l know of. Mitsubishis early carb turbo kit was very similar to Fords Mustang draw through turbo kit. Another better type is the blow through 32/36 Weber on an Isuzu Gemini (Chevy Luv/Isuzu Trooper engine). It is one of the only bolt on blow through turbo kits in the world, but it still doesn't answer the charge density problems unless you drop the compression ratio and rework the igntion.
http://www.turbogemini.com/Blow%20Throu ... %20Kit.htm
For more info into carb turbos, look at Linc's 200 and Does10'S blow through Holley carbed efforts. Because of the fuel distribution problem being such an issue under boost, you will always break something when you turbo a carb engine with lots of boost...a head gasket, piston or maybee crack a cylinder wall. If you use EFI, waste spark EDIS ignition and an alloy head with a good long duration cam and custom forged pistons to the right clearance, you'll get great results, see Georges Turbo Experiement in the Aussie section.
