All Small Six Weber 32/36 rough idle

[Frank]

I couldn't tell you at that specific rpm but ballpark rpm, I've never seen voltage go above 13 ish

All of the above could be a slipping belt. Before you toss me under the bus- many moons ago I took a car in to have the alternator checked, exact same symptoms. The mechanic suggested a loose belt. Being young and cocky, I left annoyed. There was NO squealing or outward indication of slipping. The belt didn't feel "too" loose. I put a new belt and got it snug- problem solved, the guy was right.

 

[beanmiester]

All of the above could be a slipping belt. Before you toss me under the bus- many moons ago I took a car in to have the alternator checked, exact same symptoms. The mechanic suggested a loose belt. Being young and cocky, I left annoyed. There was NO squealing or outward indication of slipping. The belt didn't feel "too" loose. I put a new belt and got it snug- problem solved, the guy was right.

Actually it does occasionally squeak but that's only when the engine is really mad and tries to launch itself toward the alternator so it made sense the belt would get some slack in it. I'll try that.

 

[beanmiester]

You shouldn't experience a voltage drop if you use your ignition source to trip a relay that will provide 12v to the DUI ignition. Here's a little diagram I made up the other day to show how that works with a standard bosch relay. Bosch relays are pretty common and there are a bunch of knock offs that make the same relay. Make sure that you source 12v from the battery side of the starter solenoid and that you have a fuse between the 12v source and the relay.

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The dui just came today so just to make sure:
1. I can just drop it in. There's nothing special i have to do to the gear? (I know I have to do more than that to get it the whole thing setup but I don't know if i have to put grease on the gear or anything like that)
2. Constant power from battery side and i can use the starter side to trip the relay.

 

[sixtseventwo4d]

You want the relay to power on in the key run position AND stay on during cranking also. The original ignition power wire would do this, use it to control the relay

 

[awasson]

You want the relay to power on in the key run position AND stay on during cranking also. The original ignition power wire would do this, use it to control the relay

As @sixtseventwo4d says, use the original ignition power wire to trip your relay. I'm using it from the starter solenoid but you can grab it directly at the stock coil (+) wire. See diagram:

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Also, no need to grease the gear. That gallery is pressured by oil that feeds the rocker arms. It should be well lubed.

 

[beanmiester]

The distributor shipped without plug wires because they are on backorder. Is there a cheap generic plug wire i could use in the meantime?

 

[DON]

I would take the cap to the local parts house and find a set you can cut to fit. The plug ends will be the same, it’s the cap ends that can be different. The problem is going to be finding one for a six. You might have to just pay for the two extra wires . Maybe new ends to fit the cap for your old wires? Maybe get with MSD for wires that fit and cancel the other wires?
I am guessing you know how to keep the new dizzy timed

 

[beanmiester]

I would take the cap to the local parts house and find a set you can cut to fit. The plug ends will be the same, it’s the cap ends that can be different. The problem is going to be finding one for a six. You might have to just pay for the two extra wires . Maybe new ends to fit the cap for your old wires? Maybe get with MSD for wires that fit and cancel the other wires?
I am guessing you know how to keep the new dizzy timed

I haven't installed it or messed with timing on the new dizzy yet. The old wires are the load-o-matic wires so they don't work. The cut to fit ones are 200$ so I guess I'm waiting . The cheap ones from autozone are all out of stock in tucson and are also on backorder. Go figure

 

[vssman]

I’d look at a 1980 Chevy C10 with a six in it for plug wires

 

[Frank]

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-860825R

 

[beanmiester]

So those of you with a dui where should the vacuum canister be facing. Right now I have it where the old one is. Should that be around an ok timing to start it? The rotor and everything is at tdc of cylinder 1 at the compression stroke btw.

 

[DON]

Where the canister is is not as important as where the rotor is. The rotor needs to be pointed at the same cylinder as the original distributor. Where the canister is is really irrelevant. If the rest is as you say, you should be good . If it won’t start, redo tdc on #1, on compression and rotor st #1

 

[beanmiester]

It runs. Started right up. It sounds a little rich and is a little shaky but tomorrow I should get it all tuned. Im so exited!

 

[beanmiester]

It runs. Started right up. It sounds a little rich and is a little shaky but tomorrow I should get it all tuned. Im so exited!

Ignore the photo lol

 

[Frank]

Ignore the photo lol

Good work! It does not matter where the distributor is clocked in the block on any distributor except the TFI/EFI engine. The canister can face where ever you like, so long as the shaft/ rotor is in time with the engine, and the plug wires on the corresponding tower.

 

[DON]

Success!!
So what is your timing set at?

 

[awasson]

It runs. Started right up. It sounds a little rich and is a little shaky but tomorrow I should get it all tuned. Im so exited!

Nice! Now you're cooking. I don't recall what camshaft you're running. I've got an aftermarket which likes a lot of initial advance. I figure a stock camshaft can be happy at about +12° initial advance. The Weber has ported vacuum which is ideal for the vacuum advance. Then you'll want to go through the Weber "Best Lean Idle" exercise.

 

[beanmiester]

Timing is at 12 and the cam is stock. The only thing I've done to the engine itself was the carb and the distributor.

 

[awasson]

Timing is at 12 and the cam is stock. The only thing I've done to the engine itself was the carb and the distributor.

That’s great. You should be in really good shape to get the carb dialed in. This is an excellent resource to get you there: http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/carburetor_set_up_and_lean_best_.htm

 

[beanmiester]

So I'm not seeing a difference with manifold or ported vacuum. I have an analyzer hooked up and I'm not seeing a difference in rpm like the dui instructions suggest. Is that normal?