I bet if you draw fuel from the bottom of your tank you wont need a prepump in the tank. Im assuming the 4.9 had one,
maybe the regulator could be moved, it mounts to the fuel rail bit maybe an adapter with high pressure fuel line could be fitted. Its in a stupid place.
removing that whole box makes sense and then make it fit after. Id leave 2 inches of room for some sound insulation. If I run mine with doghouse removed its pretty loud..
in my van I put seats from the rear of a delica, they have tracks about 2 feet long so I can slide my drivers seat right away from the engine. in my case the wheelchair lift blocked the passendger seat in so it doesnt;; move much but yoiurs wont have that.
and they are captains seats so if I ever sed it for camping they can be rotarted 180 .
I had to make the delica seats 2" taller original lowbacks look cool but only had one adjustment and they were super uncomfortable, that made it a lot nicer. I saved threm to pass along since they were nice and OEM.
if you install it witth the ECU and FI then you may decisde how mich to keep , most of the pollution control can be removed but if you wantot do a code check its gointg to always barf up related codes.
Im not sure if it may go into something like a "get home mode" or if itll run right , Mechrick is the one to ask on that since he knows the ECU functionality quite well, the cat does nothing , the o2 sensor is before the cat so elliminating that wont matter much I dont think, unless you have to pass some emissions test. dont forget the old one is worth a few bucks. thats why the junkies keep stealing them.
I think with the 65 it would be nice visually if the top is original looking.
even if the box is bigger. Its part of it's nostalgia.
how about making the rest of the box so it bolts together so it can be completely removed easily?
if you are transplanting the engine maybe you could keep some of the crosmember or motor mounts so you can use what is possible and yea youll be fabbing things to fit for sure but it sounds like you are ok doing that.
Id pull the ECU and every wire you can , label any you cut..
I took apart a car a while back and it did taake time to carefully pull almost every wire but now I have it in a box and its habndy as a reference like a 3 D wiring diagram I can put a meter on an ECU pin and find the other end, saving some confusion maybe?
the throttle cable isnt; complicated I just changed mine and wondered why I did but just didnt; want it to break on me, then I noted the transmission shift cable also has a rather aged looking plastic part where it connects to the throttle body.
Id get the advice of others about keeping or removing the EGR ssytem, its possible but the more you remove the more confused the ECU will be, in mine I chose to keep it all but its not having a heart transplant ;-)
to get at the injectors you have to remove the whole manifold and its a bit of a PITA in my van the hardest part is the bolts along the right side of the manifold, mine is tight in there, also mine has a sensor near the front of the manifold and its tight too..
you might ask the others , there are pipes in mine to cool near the fuel rail, that isn't absolutely necessary, the fuel rail has a temp sensor , I think that operates the blower for that. it just clips on the rail.
mine has a hook thats near the fuel rail if I had it stripped I;d think about removing that thing, its to hoist the engine with inthe factory,, Id say once installed its probably not necessary you could likely bolt a chain to other stuff or maybe you want it.. remving that thing and the air pipe might make a bit more room to work on stuff..
I think it is actually possible to remove the fuel regulator, but awkward.. mine worked ok bu tI dint want a torn diaphram problem. so your choice you can test it by checking fuel pressure if the vacuum line has gas in it, it is torn..
all thoise hoses on top of th emanifild , you might get by without some of them but make sure none leak or it'll suck air and muck up the idle.
on top of the manifold there is the idle air valve, youll need room for that I guess.
if the other van is being wrecked Id keep every conector, simple to clip them off and you can always splice later.
if you can keep the harness asa a whole and then decide to elliminate things it may be easier to work ont he harness mods out of the truck then make it fit after, then you could remove any unused wires to simpligfy things.
seat belt warning sytem and maybe other things, the drivers seat has a switch.. some stuff might not be needed.
Id use a ziploc and write on it with a marker , one for every connector.. wht is clear now may =not be in 6 months.
keep stuff like rubber grommets you can always bop a hole and use those over.
I bought a new pump then decided its kind of cheap and I bought the bosche one Ive been meaning to swap it out. put in a new fuel filter when mucking with the pump.
ford uses a tool to release the fuel leines I bou=ght a 5 dollar plastic cheapo, it worked fine. you canwrap a bit of sheet metal around and jam that in there instead, to get them to release, if you dont own that. near the fuel piumpo there are other weird ford connectors Id get some new ones. they have these stupid plastic clips that will be old by now and maybe brittle.
at the rear right near the rear of the block there is a fitting, I forget, I thinkit s a temp sensor, Id remove that when you flush the engine block mine seemed to have a ton of riusty crap caught in there and it ran brown water for a bit.. easy to do.
what will run the speedo?
