'63 170 mechanical advance?

63RancheroGuy

Active member
Hey guys,

Did the stock 170s have mechanical advance on the distributor?

Mine has the ported vacuum advance. Am I correct in saying they have ported vacuum advance only? Or is there mechanical advance as well? How do you check?

Next question: Did/do the 170s have a vacuum chamber (cylinder)? Because mine doesn't, and I thought that was strange.

Thanks in advance. This forum is the best!

Adam
 
63RancheroGuy

Look in the
Small Six Tech (sticky's)
for
Pre-68 Load-O-Matic - How it operates
viewtopic.php?t=15522

How the Spark Control Valve (SCV) Works
viewtopic.php?t=18841

These will completely describe the Load-O-Matic sytem.

Over the years some previous owener may have changed out the distributor for the wrong one. If true it will not work correctly with your spark control carb.
 
Okay....I do have the original 1100 carb, with SCV...just replaced the SCV when I was dealing with my accelerator pump issues.

How do I check/confirm I have the correct distributor to match this carb?

Assuming, I do, what adjustments do I have other than setting the initial timing and hoping for the best?

I've been noticing some knocking at say 3/4 throttle while driving, and frankly I don't like it (imagine that). Sounds good and clean in the driveway.

Should I just keep retarding the initial timing until that quits? Or just drive it like an old lady? I don't really like that either.

I have checked for vacuum leaks and my points dwell is within spec.

Adam
 
Howdy Back adam:

"Did/do the 170s have a vacuum chamber (cylinder)?" YEs, the chambers is called a vacuum cannister. The line from the vacuum source in the carb attaches to the out side of the cannister. The cannister actuates and arm to the advance plate inside the distributor. IF your distributor doesn't have one the engine will not perform as designed. These LoM distributors are not adjustible. Spring tension is pre-set to engine and trans.

As far as getting the most out of it general clean up and check is in order if you haven't already done it. Start with a thorough cleaning of the carb, by spraying it down with carb cleaner, both inside and out. Do Do a good clean up and inspection on the inside of the distributor. By the way, if you take the cap off the distributor you will see two springs toward the bottom of the advance plate. All later, centrifugal advance distributors have the springs under the plate. Make sure the advance plate moves freely and returns quickly under spring pressure. Check the vacuum cannister to make sure that the diaphram on the inside is not ruptured and leaking. Check the line between the carb and distributor for cracks, leaks or plugs. You should be able to blow through this line easily.

Once the general stuff is complete give the inside a spritx. Put a can of fuel line cleaner in a tank of gas. Also check the plugs for correct heat range, carbon or oil fouling and correct gap. What do you have the initial advance set at? Is this an auto or manual trans car? What is your elevation? Detaisl, details details!!!

Adios, David
 
Okay - thanks David - I will check all of the items on your list over the holiday break. I have taken the carb off and sprayed carb cleaner through all the orifices and what not (the accelerator pump tube was clogged) - but I have not done a complete breakdown and rebuild.

No cracks leaks or plugs in the vaccuum line. I haven't blown through, but I have checked for vacuum leaks with the start fluid method, and I have disconnected the carb side of the line and sucked to checked that the plate advances.

How do I check plugs for heat range? I'll do a google search on that. They are gapped correctly there is a little carbon buildup. I'm planning on replacing them after my next paycheck.

This is a manual transmission, elevation 200ft, initial timing set at 6 degrees but I need to verify the timing mark somehow, as some have suggested. Not sure how. Will google that too.

Adam
 
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