'66 stock 200ci running very rich

[66comet202]

Hey all,

I'm running ridiculously rich. I put new plugs Saturday, drove 15 miles, and all six plugs were soot black afterwards!

Here's the engine:
Stock 200ci
Autolite 1100
LOM dizzy
Probably 165k miles

I've done the following.

• new plugs
  new new wires
  new rotor
  new cap (What cap are you using on your LOM?)
  verified timing at 14* - From what I can tell the damper has not slipped. The groove on the damper within a degree or two of TDC. I checked with spark plug out, piston at the top of the cylinder and the rotor at #1.)
  Compression tested out at 160 on #1 and 170 on the rest for the dry test. Haven't done a wet or a leakdown.
  Just today I put new points and condenser on so I need to see how that does.

I do have an exhaust leak. I had the entire exhaust replaced a week ago, but it appears the manifold is warped. Will try a second gasket before having it planed.

I use 87 octane and a fuel treatment ( for the water).

Hopefully with the new points and condenser I've installed have made a big difference. I did see a thread here about buying jets from http://www.carburetor-parts.com/. Of course I'll have to take the car apart again to see what size I currently have.

Anyway,
Any help/advice/sarcasm is completely appreciated!

Thanks!

Greg

 

[bubba22349]

Did you do a rebuild of the carb yet? By what you discribe it's were I would check first. Common problems on an old carb (well used or been sitting) is a bad needle and seat, bad float or the set level, varnish inside of the passeges, and worn throdle shafts. A good clean and rebuild kit cures about 3/4's of them. Good luck

 

[rbohm]

Did you do a rebuild of the carb yet? By what you discribe it's were I would check first. Common problems on an old carb (well used or been sitting) is a bad needle and seat, bad float or the set level, varnish inside of the passeges, and worn throdle shafts. A good clean and rebuild kit cures about 3/4's of them. Good luck

after that i would add a fuel pressure regulator and set the pressure at something like 4psi.

 

[66comet202]

Dang it. I forgot to mention the carb rebuild. Just did that over the weekend. Had to straighten out the accel pump and anti-stall covers as they had been overtightened by the crazy guy that owns the car (me).

Haven't touched the fuel pump but have been sprayed in the face by gas from the fuel line at the carb when removing it. Good idea to check the pressure. Thanks for the tip!

I'll report back when that's done.

BTW
Been lurking here for a few months and have gotten a lot of knowledge! That's much appreciated!!

 

[JackFish]

Make sure you didn't lose any little balls or brass weights that go in the carb.

 

[66comet202]

Make sure you didn't lose any little balls or brass weights that go in the carb.

I was extra careful about the check balls and the discharge weight.

An update from the drive to work this morning. First some background. Before the changes previously listed I'd smell raw fuel once the engine warmed up. Tolerable for a couple mile commute, but a drive of 10 miles or more and headaches ensued. So, this morning I drove close to 15 miles and no raw fuel smell! 8)

Still want to check the fuel pressure and regulate it if necessary.

 

[66comet202]

So, after a couple of days driving with the new points and condenser I pulled the plugs today and voila they look great! Well, except for 3, 4, and 5. They have some burnt oil on one side. I'm assuming the side away from the flame. I don't know if thats rings or valves as I haven't done a wet compression test. For the moment I'm going to drive it and see what happens.

So, for now the morale of the story is to not forget the electrical side of the equation if you're running rich. Its easy to do but... :duh:

Thanks for the suggestions and advice JackFish, rbohm, and bubba22349!

Greg