68 Falcon 200, wont start

[Anonymous]

This car just does not want to start. It seems as though only the 3rd cylinder is getting any gas at all. I finally got a huge backfire out of the carb when checkin the spark on the 6th cylinder plug. I flipped the dizzy 180* and now instead of a backfire it will actually fire one cylinder. It may not be the same cylinder firing the one time every so often it does, that is just my logical guess. Please help me! Thanks

 

[Lazy JW]

Need a little more info but it sounds like you have a fundamental timing problem. Make sure that the spark plug wires are in the right spot for the correct rotation. Do you have points? What method are you using to detirmine timing? Have you verified TDC?
Joe

 

[Anonymous]

Need a little more info but it sounds like you have a fundamental timing problem. Make sure that the spark plug wires are in the right spot for the correct rotation. Do you have points? What method are you using to detirmine timing? Have you verified TDC?
Joe

The spark plug wires are correctly placed, I have new points, condenser, and distributor cap. I am setting the first spark plug at 6* BTDC, and I am flipping the distributor 180* just to make sure it will be at TDC instead of BDC.

 

[Lazy JW]

What were the events leading up to the no-start condition? Was it running fine and broke down, or did you do some work on it and then it wouldn't start? Or did you find it in a barn and it hasn't run for years? Tell us the story so we know where to start.
Joe

 

[Anonymous]

What were the events leading up to the no-start condition? Was it running fine and broke down, or did you do some work on it and then it wouldn't start? Or did you find it in a barn and it hasn't run for years? Tell us the story so we know where to start.
Joe

At the end of the summer I got the car from a friend who had it in his garage for the past 10 years or so. We did some maintenance on it and then it was running real smooth. About November it started bogging, giving hard starts, and not idling. By december it was in my garage being worked on. A senior mechanic and I replaced points, condenser, dizzy cap, water pump, thermostat, battery, spark plug wires, heater hoses, and the valve cover gasket. After we did this work on the car it wont start at all.

 

[80broncoman]

I would go back to the new points first. Did you remove the dizzy to install the points and cond.? If so may be the duizzy got a little out of time.
but the points and cond are what I would check first.
Jim

 

[Anonymous]

The spark plug wires are correctly placed, I have new points, condenser, and distributor cap. I am setting the first spark plug at 6* BTDC, and I am flipping the distributor 180* just to make sure it will be at TDC instead of BDC.[/quote]
this confuses me
to static time simply get the timing mark at zero this is compression stroke TDC(damper and pointer) then open distributor and make sure points are just opening,(Plug fires when points open not close)I use a ohm meter. then make sure rotor button is on the #1 plug wire. Fireing order is __too young too old just right--15-36-24rotating the same direction the button spins. This will have it close enough to crank with ease then use light.
I would also check the fuel filter on a car that sat and make sure you have fuel pressure into the carb bowl- lossen line at carb,aim into cup and spin her over should, pulse strongly. crap will build up in the filter from gas varnish in tank, often will get in carb bowl then clog jets.. also make sure that you don't have cracked insulter where point mount over posts have had this drive me crazy before.
Let us know what you find--love a mystery!

 

[jimarlie]

Of all the things you list as done you don't mention the rotor. I assume it is back in the distributer?

Jim

 

[Anonymous]

Hehe, yes the rotor is back in the dizzy Actually I have found out what the problem is, the starter bendix and ring gear are badly mashed, I'm working on getting them replaced right now. Although I wonder how the engine sounded to be turning over so well with these so bad...

 

[pedal2themetal45]

HI EOJACK
If the starter was turning the motor over it should start??
It sounds like your steal haveing timming issues...
forget the 6 deg thing install everything at 0 deg.. and then time it after its running with a timming light......
Remember the timming marks well line up twice once a TDC and once 180 deg off... make sure the points are set right.. a point misadjustment will thro the timming off..

tim

 

[Anonymous]

Yes the timing mark will hit on the exhaust stroke also--at this point the rotor button will be pointing at 180 degrees away from #1 cylinder. If there is a possibility that the distributor has been removed and reinstalled 180*s off I would pull the valve cover and check the valve position. The valves will both be closed on compression stroke and the exhaust valve will be open on exhaust stroke. This is not a bad idea anyways on a non starting motor as it is an easy way to check that the valves are opening and closing properly. For the owner who is not experienced in wrenching it is a good way to get some insight as to the operation of the valve train.