Adusting valves?

[Anonymous]

Hey guys, I am still chasing my vibration. I have tested the compression on ever cylinder and they are 120 across the board. I replaced the condenser, soil, regapped the plugs, and the points, rebuilt the carb, and rechecked my wiring in the engine bay. All to no avail. I am taking it back to the trans shop where I had it rebuilt so they can check the torque converter and their work over this week. right now I have the vaclve cover off, and I wanted to adjust the valves while I wasn in there. The shop manual is very vague on how to do this. I think that one of the valves is sticking. When I hold a piece of paper behind the exhaust pipe the paper moves with the exhaust like usual and does a pop pop pop every now and then. If I recall right that was a sure bet for a sticking valve, but I figured the compression test would show that, but it didn't. I know that the exhaust manifold is warped where it meets the head, and I have a small leak around the #1 cylinder. Could that cause the bad vibration at higher rpm's? It does it in park or in gear. As the rev's climb the vibration speeds up. Any help would be cool. I'd like to adjust the valves tommorow, so I can button everything up to take it to the tranny shop on Monday.

Jon

 

[AzCoupe]

Disconnect the coil wire first for safety, making sure the motor won’t accidentally start. Some guys prefer to remove all the plugs too, so that the engine is easier to rotate during the procedure. Make sure to mark your plug wires so you don’t mix up the firing order when reinstalling them.

Next rotate the engine until the number one (#1) cylinder is on TDC just after the compression stroke. Now you can adjust the following valves: #1 intake - #1 exhaust - #2 intake - #3 exhaust - #4 intake - #5 exhaust

Next, rotate the engine until the number six (#6) cylinder is on TDC just after its compression stroke (one full revolution of the crank shaft). Now adjust the remainder of the valves: #2 exhaust - #3 intake - #4 exhaust - #5 intake - #6 intake - #6 exhaust

Adjust the valves by backing off the adjuster so that the pushrod can be easily rotated between your thumb and forefinger. Then slowly tighten the adjuster until you can no longer rotate the pushrod. Tighten the adjuster an additional ¼ turn, for the proper preload.

Note: The valve adjustments should be done on an engine that has been warmed up. Make sure to let it cool off sufficiently so that you don’t burn your fingers while rotating the pushrods. It is also a good idea to place a drop cloth or oil pan under the car/engine to prevent oil drips on the floor.

 

[rbohm]

8) what mike said

 

[Anonymous]

According to the book, there is no way to adjust the valves or push rods in my car. I think that they are hydraulic. Is this correct?

Jon

 

[AzCoupe]

Just depends on if you have adjustable or non-adjustalbe rockers?

 

[Anonymous]

How can I tell?

 

[rbohm]

8) if you have adjustable rockers, there will be an adjustment screw at the pushrod end of the rockerarm.

 

[AzCoupe]

ADJUSTABLE

NON-ADJUSTABLE

 

[rbohm]

8) nice pics mike.

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the pics. I have the non adjustable type. I plan on rebuilding my engine in the near future. Should I get adjustable rocker arms when I rebuild it, or are the non adjustable ones fine?

Jon