Another Carburetor-Question

[bubba22349]

That fitting would be hooked up to a tube near the exhaust manifold. On some models is used to bring warm air into carb top. If you don’t have the extra stovepipe you can make one or it can also be capped off.

 

[woodbutcher]

Thanks firewall.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

 

[chad]

one new connector on the carb I couldn´t figure out what for it is...
Find a small (I think original was alumin.) pipe the right inside diameter to slip over the outside of it, Bend it down (w/out breaking the part U call connector) so it sits overlapping a section of hot exhaust manifold. As bubba sez it's to bring heated air into the carb (year round). U guys stole our summer and will need the part. Even if I trade U our hot dry summer U will need it.

 

[woodbutcher]

Hi firewall.I think that maybe if you want to route warm air to the top of the carby,you could use a small length of rubber or silicon hose that fits the tube on the carb,and then use a piece of steel brake line that is long enough to wrap around one of the header tubes,and plug that into the rubber or silicon hose.
That would bring some warmed air to the carb top.If I am wrong about this,someone PLEASE correct me.Thanks.
Good luck.Have fun. Be safe.
Leo

 

[Frankenstang]

Like Leo, I'm curious about that hookup on the 1101 myself. I can see the threaded stove pipe connection at the tail end of firewall's arrow for heated air for the choke. I would have guessed that the venturi vac connection at the point of firewall's arrow would have worked a 'flapper' or some such on a 'snorkel' type air breather (maybe one with a heat riser tube).

Would ducting hot air via the venturi vac connection firewall is pointing to deliver 'much' warm air w/o the corresponding snorkel type air breather :

EDIT: ...and on the 'snorkel type' air breather with a 'flapper' (typically I've seen them on later model engines 70's...ie maybe origin of firewall's 1101)...I thought the vacuum applied to the flapper actually introduced cooler air, by the flapper opening via venturi vac as the choke came off (engine warmed up)...so that the vac line in question would actually introduce cooler air via the snorkel once it opened the flapper...instead of only up the heat riser 1-1/2" aluminum ducted to the ex manifold which the snorkel breater must pull from till the flapper is open... : ...not at all sure on my 70's carb choke, heat riser, vac setups

EDIT 1(A) ...(what's one more?) I could have the flapper operation backwards...i.e. the vac holds flapper closed till carb is warm...(as if this wasn't confusing enough??)

EDIT2: not intending to hi-jack firewall's thread...only clarify the purpose of the vac line his picture appears to be pointing too

 

[woodbutcher]

Ok.As for the threaded connection.I used the line nut that was on the ORIGINAL heat tube,and just used a piece of (IIRC)3/16th inch brake line with a compression fuerell on the line and hooked it to the carby AFTER sliding it into the STOCK manifold heat pocket.HOWEVER as you are using a header system,you could just as I mentioned before,wrap the tubing around the header tube for a heat source and be good to go.
DON`T crimp the end of the line where it is wrapped around the header tube,as there is small
vacuum draw in the choke system that draws the heat into the choke mechanism.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

 

[firewall]

Ok guys,

thank´s a lot for all your answers & suggestions. But I´m a little bit confused about this case...I mentioned that I´ve to use all possibilities to prevent getting hot air in the carb
Or is this construction for preventing carburetor-icing ?

@chad: We would be very happy if we could share the half of your hot dry summer :mrgreen:

greetings to all
Helmut

 

[woodbutcher]

Hi Firewall.You do need a little heat to prevent carb iceing.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Helmut and all:

Sorry for being a little late in this query. I'm been busy. The nipple that the arrow points to in the photo is an Unknown to me. I simply remove the pressed in pipe and plugged the hole. My 1101 worked fine that way. It is definitely not a hot air intake. The hot air intake for the choke is the threaded one already mentioned. Helmut, you are correct in keeping hot air from the carb intake. IF you do ever get any carb icing, in cold, damp weather direct warm engine heated air to the air cleaner inlet. It worked for me.

I'll be anxious to hear how it works for you.

Adios, David

 

[chad]

"...threaded one already mentioned..."
Sorry I didn't see that, where was it mentioned?
Thanks.

 

[Frankenstang]

thank´s a lot for all your answers & suggestions. But I´m a little bit confused about this case...I mentioned that I´ve to use all possibilities to prevent getting hot air in the carb

Helmut,
If you have no need for warm air at all, then I would do as David suggests and remove and plug the connection. Or you could just cap it and leave it there, then if you needed to introduce warm air later for some reason you could connect it to a stove pipe as Leo and bubba suggest....not sure what amount of warm, unfiltered air this would introduce.

You will have to modify the carb spacer that sits between the carb and the manifold.

Or modify and keep the spacer, then route warm water to it only as necessary for carb icing would be my choice.

This diagram illustrates my guess as to how the vacuum source might have been used, with the right type of air cleaner (diagram is for later model version I believe...only picture I could find) but this idea was just my guess. I don't remember seeing these types of air cleaners until the 1970's...don't think there was an air cleaner of this design in 1968.
http://www.fordmanuals.org/page-1032.html

I would still maintain a stove pipe for the automatic choke (at the threaded connection with black cap in your picture), or you could convert to electric choke for minimal choke & more fuel efficiency. Good luck

 

[firewall]

Howdy & many thanks @ all!

As I never use my old Lady in between November and April because there´s always a lot of salt & split on the streets, I think I will cap the nipple so I keep all opportunities for later on.

I´m glad looking forward to do the swap - but first I must wait for a few missing pieces like Filter and vacuum fitting because I´m afraid to use the old ones from the Holley in respect of the worse condition of all the threads.

First time I took care for the Holley I did the mistake to tighten some srews to much...firefighter-style Now I would be very careful.

greetings
Helmut

 

[MPGmustang]

I'm only taking a wack at this,

that 1101 looks nice, I wonder as the auto-choke pulls air in what if...

that fitting is to pull air through the filter, around the exhaust manifold, then up to the auto-choke. this way you only receive clean/filtered air in your engine even through the auto-choke circuit...

Just a thought...

 

[firewall]

Howdy @ all,

I did the swap! And in general David was right: This is a nearly plug&play solution. IMHO the engine has now more torque and accelerates clearly better, there is no stumbling, no stalling at all so I´m much impressed.

There is only one question I´m not sure about:

In the bottom of the carb are channels and holes like these in my old Holley:

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The bottom of the 1101 is bigger than the spacer, and that causes that some areas of these channels and holes are not sufficient covered with a gasket (look below the "3"):

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Can this cause a vacuum leak? And what are these holes & channels for ?

Greetings from Germany, where we lost complete our summer but get a lot of rain
Helmut

 

[chad]

channels and holes

Welcome back, hope the ocean vaca wuz restin & relaxin!

I never seen a water cooled carb but wonder if he's got it and needs more prts to get operable. Seems like the climate there would fit ("we throw a lot a salt on da rds in winter here", my paraphrase) even if "I don't take the 'lady' out in it".

R those channels for the water? Some a the Bronks w/the 300 have H2O chokes.

 

[Frankenstang]

Helmut, if the 1101 is the same as the 1100 (I'm not sure if they are...maybe David will chime in, cause I bet he knows) on the bottom there should be one hole on the base of the carb for a choke as suggested, but it's for a hot air choke, and corresponds to channel on this spacer...

You can zoom on the pic at this link to see the channel better: http://www.carburetor-parts.com/Autolit ... 1281-1.htm
But again that's on the 1100 and I'm not positive if the 1101 is the same on the bottom. If it is then yes it can create a small vacuum leak, but as on the 1100, the vacuum channel (as pictured above) is a constant small vacuum leak that does not affect operation as far as I know, only keeps hot air flowing across choke spring.

Looks like you have that older 'offset' looking spacer I've seen before, best solution might be to acquire the correct spacer or fabricate one of your own (the original is likely shorter than that offset style as well). A temporary fix might be to plug the channel in some way (possibly make a thin plate for the bottom ). Not sure how much this helps, as I'm not sure if the 1101 spacer looks exactly the same or similar to the 1100.
Good luck

 

[firewall]

Hm,

Am I right if I understand that the two corresponding holes (spacer&Carb Bottom) are for leading through the exhaust gases from the Choke back to the intake ?

I also thougt about to use a thin plate of stainless stell or aluminum to block the holes. Actually the holes are covered from the bigger gasket - I used to gaskets to block the hole - one upside down Know that this not very professional. But as I wrote I was afraid of an eventually leak, but if this is only for the choke circuit it doesn´t matter so much I think.

We´ll see. Next is to check the mpG and calibrate the choke - because the engine seems to run a bit to rich with choke flap complety closed, very rough and very easy to stall. But only the first Minute, after that it´s a complete other feeling.

I´m very happy with this upgrade so far!

Greetings & and many Thanks for all your helpful Tipps!
Helmut

 

[Frankenstang]

Am I right if I understand that the two corresponding holes (spacer&Carb Bottom) are for leading through the exhaust gases from the Choke back to the intake ?

Helmut, it's not actually routing exhaust 'gases', it draws 'air' that is 'heated' by exhaust. The only time it would be exhaust gases is if the hot air channel going through the exhaust manifold (where the 'stove' pipe hooks up) is ruptured.

Example: http://media.photobucket.com/image/ford ... 1268081990

EDIT: The center divider (between exhaust ports 3 & 4) on this manifold is ruptured or blown and should not have that (hole) in it. This allows major amounts of carbon to be drawn into that channel clogging the vacuum passage in the spacer and in the carb and buring up the choke housing.

If you cannot get proper alignment of the auto choke heated air passage on your spacer, you could always convert it to manual choke with a kit like this...
http://www.jcwhitney.com/choke-conversi ... 05632.jcwx

Or you could convert it to an electric choke by using an electric choke housing and hooking the wire lead to the stator ("STA") post on the back of your alternator.

I am likely going electric on mine because in Texas the choke is not required as much and I think the heated air auto chokes are generally too slow to react in warmer climates.

Sorry I can't find a picture of the appropriate 1101 adapter plate.... maybe it used a plate like the one on the bottom of the YF's but this is only a guess (as in without heated water tubes...the early YF's are from a similar era), I'm not sure. I do know the 1101 has a slightly larger throttle plate bore so you have to be sure you have clearance in the adapter for the throttle plate to fully open (but think you may have already done that : ).

Best bet for the long run and secure mounting of the carburetor to avoid vacuum leaks at the base might be to make your own adapter plate or find one correct for the 1101, but sounds like you've got it working good for now

If you are not expecting winter soon, before I have used a zip tie or wire, to wire the choke full open Not a professional fix and may cause stumbling for a few minutes until engine warms up (just go easy on the throttle till warm), but might help.
Good luck!

 

[firewall]

Best bet for the long run and secure mounting of the carburetor to avoid vacuum leaks at the base might be to make your own adapter plate or find one correct for the 1101, but sounds like you've got it working good for now

Thanks Robert,

and Yes this will be one of the next things to do. But first, I guess I´ve to solve another problem: My hot air stove seems to route exhaust - not hot air and because of this I´m thinking about a conversion to an electric choke. But I´ve to check this more accurate.

The Butterfly of the 1101 moves freely - David was right, it was only a little bit to file out the spacer bore so it fits perfectly. And so far I´ve to say that the 1101 is very nice carb for my 200. Accelaration, or just slow cruising everything works even easier and not strained like before with the Holley 1940. Only the Top-speed is a little bit lower, but only just 5 Mph, nothing serious.

P.S. Just in time I read this:

Howdy Rookie:

The Holley #1940 Was a service replacement for autolites after Autolite went out of business. Since I don't recall ever seeing an Autolite 1100 or 1101 with and electric choke I would doubt that one exists. If they did, Pony Carbs will likely be as source.

Adios, David

So, I won´t be very succesful in Looking for a conversion Kit I guess...
wish ya all a nice weekend,
Helmut

 

[Frankenstang]

Glad to help Helmut

My hot air stove seems to route exhaust

If it is an exhaust leak you often can hear a 'tick,tick, tick' noise associated with it (louder when it's colder, quieter when it's warm). Somtimes you have to pull the manifold to be sure, but if passage is ruptured you could always 'tap' or cut threads in the upper and lower holes of the passage and plug them.

As for your top speed...with the engine off, you might want to look down the throat of the carburetor and double check the external linkage too (over travel rod, etc), while working the throttle lever to make sure nothing is binding limiting full wide open throttle...lower butterfly should go practically vertical.

David and Dennis' book is definitely a great resource, a must read I'm going to do some experimenting with electric choke bodies...if nothing else, junk yard recycles...if I find a fitting substitute for my 1100 I will let you know (I think it should be same as your 1101). I may end up using the auto to manual conversion kit myself...they do tend to offer the most control in limiting unnecessary choking.
Enjoy your weekend as well