AOD in 200

[Anonymous]

I did a search for this topic, and found differing answers. Can an AOD be installed on a 6 cyl. I thought I read somewhere yes, but the fist post that displays when you search says no, just v8's. Is this the case? Is there a better automatic trans than the C4 that I can use in my 66 coupe. I want to be able to drive it on the highway without taching the motor out. I have 2.83 rear gears and it still seemed to be running high on the rpm's at 65 mph. I would also like to change the rear ration at some point to like a 3.50 or 3.25 for more go baby go.

Jon

 

[Asa]

if you have enough money, anything is possible
i think with a later "big bell" 200 block it's possible, but they suck down too much power

have you looked at a Gear Vendors bolt-on gear splitter?
basically it splits the gears in the tranny through a bolt on overdrive, so instead of 3 gears you get 6

 

[Anonymous]

Has anyone here used a overdrive by gear vendors? What were the results? The price on those units are quite pricy as well. Is there anyother option to get an automatic overdrive in my 6 cyl?

Jon

 

[Asa]

actually, i don't think i've heard of anyone using one actually
even in all the magazines i've yet to see one

i don't know if there are any other options, but my brain is fried so it's possible

 

[xctasy]

See this? It's a 200 cube I6 with early high mount starter block reworked for a low mount starter SBF transmission.

Check out drag-200stang's ride here http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=13469&highlight=

drag-200stang said

Drive train specs are 10.5" 289 flywheel with explosion proof bellhousing adapted with block plate and machining to flywheel. Now have 11". The stock 9" clutches of the day would explode if you ran it to 7000 too many times. Trans is a 4-speed Lenco clutchless This was state of the art at the time but it weighs about 150 lbs. It takes a lot of power to turn.

See this?

It's our own conversion from the early four bolt 200 cube block pattern to fit the Small block Ford and Big Six 240/300 autos or manuals. That's any low mount gearbox.

It's as easy as machining up one of these

and one of these

The only issue is that you need to redrill the 164 tooth flexplate off a 250 or 300 I6 to the smaller 2.75" bolt spacings, rather than 3". Pilot housing is exactly the same at 1.75" diameter.

The AOD is about 155 pounds all up, so its twice the weight of a C5 or C4.

Block adaptor conversions are very, very simple and can be done for very little sums of money if you know what you are doing.

Untill some enterprising Americans come up with a Chevy/ Buick Olds Pontiac THM 200 4R conversion, which is much lighter at about 130 pounds, then the AOD makes sense. It's cheap, strong enough behind a six, and its only real issue is its weight. The Chevy conversion takes a special low-mount starter mounting, and needs to use the 250 Chev L6 153 tooth flexplate.

There is not much money in it if you find a competent machinist. The drill holes are made for the four bolts on the block, and then six bolt-holes are made for the V8/I6 AOD/AOD-E trans.

 

[Anonymous]

The aod will fit some of the blocks but drains too much hp out of the motor. A good C4 and a gear will serve you good.

 

[xctasy]

Untill I do some coastdown tests, I'd say the AOD has less drag on a highway than the C4. The C5 had a lock-up clutch, and will posibily be the best for efficiency of any auto. The AOD may have significantly more inertia to overcome than a C4 or C5, but I don't want to sound like I'm poo-hooing a great 3-stage trans.

Juries out, but I won't dispute that an AOD will suck the life out of a 200. Even though I think there is less than 2% in it from my calculations.

A T5 or T56 will kill any of them at a 1.264 loss from flywheel hp to the road , with 5% less drag than an AOD or C5 at 1.33 loss on an intermediate sedan, and about 7% less power consumption than a C4 (1.35 loss). (Source: Street Machine, Road and Track, Modern Motor, Wheels car mags. All have strict test weight and occupancy rules, with the Aussie mag Wheels far stricter than any of the others)

These are normalised data trends from all the advertised hp figures based agains the actual standing quarter mile times. This is therefore the total loss including diff, tires and transmission from every article I can find from 1967 to date.

Until I do some dyno runs, you'll just have to take my word for it.

 

[rbohm]

8) art carr has a kit to install a 200 4r behind a 5.0 mustang. i think with some work you could do the same with a 200.

 

[Anonymous]

I recall seeing a post a few days back about using a Toyota Supra manual trans behind a 200 using a jeep adaptor. Not sure what kind of auto trans they used in the supra but may be worth looking into...

anyone know?

 

[xctasy]

Yep, bullet proof Asian Warner LE 340, same as JD used behind his 5.0 Mustang engined Toyota 4-Runner. Same trans Mitsubishi used behind the 3.0/3.5 V6 Monterero, same as Jeep uses behind the 4.0 liter, same as used in the Lexus and Toyota Cressida/Celcior. The only catch? Some of them are electronic, and bellhousings vary.

It's very strong and well thought off, but can you get bits for it?

 

[FastRonald]

8) The opinions of using the Ford a.o.d. do seem to continue being varied. One point I'd like to know is if the a.o.d. has been around for so long.......why would it suck the life out of a 200?

 

[rbohm]

8) The opinions of using the Ford a.o.d. do seem to continue being varied. One point I'd like to know is if the a.o.d. has been around for so long.......why would it suck the life out of a 200?

8) because it was designed for use behind a V8. it is fmx based and it has more rotating weight than a C4 does.

 

[MustangSix]

The AOD has a lot of rotating mass inside of it. However, when it is in 3rd 67% of the engine's torque goes directly thru the direct drive shaft. And in 4th OD is 100% direct drive. In OD, the engine is turing the OD gearset with no hydraulics, so in 4th it is fairly efficient. It's the bottom two and a third gears that will eat up scarce power.

The AOD is also heavy. A 200 version of the C4 weighs less than 100 lbs. My AOD was closer to 165 with converter and fluid.

I too would opt for a 200-4R or a 700R4 on a 200. They are not that much smaller, but are a bit more efficient and the electric lockup clutch can be activated with a combination of load sensing vacuum and throttle position switches.