ARP Fasteners

[WhitePony]

At what point in the performance game do ARP fasteners become something that's a MUST HAVE? I'm working up the specs for my new engine, and I was wondering if this would be something that I should look into investing in, or if they will be overkill.

Right now I'm thinking about the short block (Main studs and Rod bolts). I'll probably be using cast pistons with stock rods. I'm waiting to see about the SP heads, so I'll probably go with a milled down late model big log head for now. I'll be installing an FSPP double roller timing set and an FSPP CSC-264/274 (112*) cam. With that in mind, and most likely going to an SP or OZ head in the future, would the extra expense of the ARP fasteners be worthwhile?

Thanks

Kris

 

[xctasy]

Yes to rod bolts. Check out the 289/302 spec rod bolts for safe 'keeping'. HAR HAR HAR. Stock Ford specification bolts are always plasticene items. The APR stuff is a good insurance policy.

You can use the new stock Ford head bolts in the meantime. You need to use hardened washers. This is so any head milling doesn't result in the bolts bottoming out in the block. Any previous head work isn't easy to discern. There could be 50 thou off the head already, and any subsequent shave could infact be more than 70 thou off the head. If the bolts bottom, then you can't torque the head properly.

There are studs avaliable from FSSP or Inliner, but I don't think they are needed for the head unless you are planning to do something super nasty to the engine.

 

[AzCoupe]

The issue is not so much for strenght, but for the advantages gained by using studs rather than bolts.

1) There is no need to worry about how much the head or block has been milled and if the bolts are bottoming out. Which lessens the chance of blowing a head gasket.

2) Much easier to assemble the engine as it assures that the cylinder head and gasket are properly aligned. Which lessens the chance of blowing a head gasket.

3) Studs provide more accurate and consistent torque loading. When you use bolts to secure the cylinder head, or main caps, the fastener is actually being " twisted " while it is being torqued to the proper reading. When appling torque to the nut, the stud will stretch only on the vertical axis. This provides more even clamping force on the head, or main caps. And, you guessed it, lessens the chance of blowing a head gasket.

 

[wsa111]

I second az coupes reccomendation on using arp fasterners. Definately the rods & most important the head studs.
A word of advise on the head studs, grind about 1/8 off the right front stud & use sealer when screwed into block. That rf stud is too long & has been known to hit the water pump impeller.William

 

[AzCoupe]

Good point Will. That is often overlooked. The hole closest to the T-stat is also considered a wet hole and needs to have a thread sealer applied to the stud, which prevents it from siezing up with rust.

 

[WhitePony]

Thanks guys! I'ts great to have so much knoweldge on this engine available!

Kris

 

[xctasy]

One little nut can screw up a whole engine!

 

[CobraSix]

plus, when installing headers or the aussie manifold, studs make it so much easier since you can put them in...put the headers/manifold in place, and you don't have to do the funky chicken dance with your upper body to hold the gasket in place, the headers in place, and torque all at the same time.

I like them for sheer install simplicity sake.

Slade

 

[Anonymous]

Hey Slade, I never thought of that!! I'm using the Breslin header lock bolts for the Pacemakers and MAN was it a biotch getting the gasket in there and bolted, etc. For the intake, I'd be concerned that I wouldn't have enough room to swing the manifold onto the studs as it is SOO close to the shock tower as it is. Worth looking into though!

 

[AzCoupe]

Bryce, you should be able to. I used studs when installing mine. If you want to use the Breslins you still can. Just get some studs (all thread or cheap bolts with the heads cut off) and install them finger tight, slide on the header, and swap the studs for the Breslin bolts, one by one.

 

[Anonymous]

Getting back to head bolts, another thing you can do on the cheep is pull twelve front left head bolt studs from a junk yard and install four of them in the corners of the block first. They will act as a guide when you install the head. A 200-250 ci Ford cylinder head weighs between 75-80 lbs and can be quite a handful.

 

[Anonymous]

duh. :roll: thanks mike...you think I could have figured that out!
LOL!

 

[MustangSix]

New rod bolts are a must. The OEM bolts have the strength of frozen butter.

ON the exhaust side, studs would be good, at least a couple to get things started, but thats a high heat area where stainless might be a better choice. You don't need a lot of tensile strength, but corrosion and rust resistance would be nice to have.