All Small Six ARP Head stud installation
- Thread starter ncpe2001
- Start date
This relates to all small sixes
May I ask why you would want to put threadlocker on the studs? I personally never put any lock compound on my engine studs.
Does ARP recommend this for your application? Not saying I'm right, just what I do.
Does ARP recommend this for your application? Not saying I'm right, just what I do.
I have not seen a recommendation to do this. I torque down a head after installing the new ARP studs, but when I removed the head after running the engine, the studs were loose and turning with the nuts as I was taking them off. To be clear, the nuts were torqued down to specs, the studs were loose once the nuts were loosened. Just checking with the community to see if anyone had the same experience and what was done to secure the studs.
Yep since the studs are just installed hand tight, that can happen in disassembly. Nothing to worry about. When you apply the load, they don't move. Took me a while to get my head around that the first time I used studs instead of bolts.
50 years ago Bill ''Grumpy'' Jenkins made red loc-tighting them, the in thing to do, I did, but no longer do.
The front intake side stud can hit the water pump, watch that and needs sealer.. Also that stud/bolt boss is weak, watch that the end of threads tapered part does not get turned hard down on the deck , it can act like a wedge and crack the block there because of it being thinned for water pump and corrosion.
The front intake side stud can hit the water pump, watch that and needs sealer.. Also that stud/bolt boss is weak, watch that the end of threads tapered part does not get turned hard down on the deck , it can act like a wedge and crack the block there because of it being thinned for water pump and corrosion.
Chad, are you saying to use arp lube on the studs and torque them to spec, like 70 ft- lbs into the block?
I think that is a bad practice...To much force applied to where thread are not threads.
Some places loc-tight has to be used and you adjust the torque accordingly.
I think that is a bad practice...To much force applied to where thread are not threads.
Some places loc-tight has to be used and you adjust the torque accordingly.
I'm just reading off the apr instructions - something to the effect "our fasteners R certified (my own wording, have not seen it in yrs altho just assembling an over 700 HP tecoma motor w/their product) to tq specs w/the use of our / none other / lube oil. We can not guarntee specs and strengths w/o this oil." Could I B remembering wrong? May B that's Y the piston burned in the last 9.88 pass (Aug 2019)...? Let me know what U see on their paper wrk. The stuff used @ this point seems more like cc oil than the tacky, sticky assembly oil.
"...Some places loc-tight has to be used and you adjust the torque accordingly...." wasnt aware of that. What can U point me to for info.
Both seem kind "off" to me as the fluid(s) ina closed hole would seem to skew results (tq readings) !
"...Some places loc-tight has to be used and you adjust the torque accordingly...." wasnt aware of that. What can U point me to for info.
Both seem kind "off" to me as the fluid(s) ina closed hole would seem to skew results (tq readings) !
ARP does recommend their lube on the threads where the nut interfaces with the stud and under the washers and flat surfaces that contact the nuts. As for threading the studs into the block, silicone sealer may need to be applied if the stud goes into water. If the bolt holes are blind, I might just put a couple of squirts of oil on them just so they aren't installed dry.
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