Arp worth the money?

[hasa68mustang]

I know you can torque them to a higher load but by how much and how much will this help, with something such as my turbo setup. In your opinion is it worth the money? what do you torque them too. I havent really found any specifications about the head studs. Thanks, Tommy

 

[wallaka]

For head studs? Tighten them just tight enough that you aren't blowing head gaskets. I think that Will & Kelly have theirs at around 125 ft/lbs.

Ford calls for 70-75 with oiled bolts, torqued down in three stages. Go to about 50, wait a while, then 65, wait a while, then 75. I waited a couple hours or so between torquings. I'd just add a step for higher torque ranges.

 

[Anlushac11]

8)

I dont think its a matter of tightening the bolts tighter. Its a matter of peace of mind knowing your head bolts arent going to stretch or break.

Same with main bolts and rod bolts.

 

[hasa68mustang]

For head studs? Tighten them just tight enough that you aren't blowing head gaskets. I think that Will & Kelly have theirs at around 125 ft/lbs.

So pretty much tighten them to JUST before they break right? lol Ill shoot Will a pm. Tommy

 

[Funky Cricket]

yes they are worth it.

hands down. for both top and bottom ends.

 

[matt1967]

I'd agree that studding is better than a bolt, but there is no Magic about ARP stuff. the threads are sharper than a ordinary grade 8 peice of hardware, and it's only grade 8, good sharp bolts and studs can be got from a hardware ( for bolts ect... ) supplier, way less than a set of ARP stuff. if ARP was MILL SPEC, it would be a diffrent story.

 

[Bort62]

It's MIL SPEC actually

I used Grade 8 bolts from an industrial supply house for my head bolts. Cost me between 12 and 20 dollars for all of them.

 

[Anonymous]

It's MIL SPEC actually

Correct...ARP is indeed.

The studs will come with instructions, mine did.

Careful...the very front one on the pass side will screw down far enough to hit the water pump impeller (ask me how I know)

 

[simon]

Careful...the very front one on the pass side will screw down far enough to hit the water pump impeller (ask me how I know)

Lemme guess - learned it the hard way, like most of us, right?

 

[Bort62]

Nice!

 

[woodbutcher]

Ouchhhhhhhhhhhhhh.
Leo

 

[Anonymous]

I caught it before it ran. I was putting the belt on and noticed the pump wouldn't turn and couldn't figure out why. I only bent one fin, though, and it straightened up fine.

I think the instructions that come with should say something about that.....

 

[fast64ranchero]

For most engines studs may be over kill, but in your case I would use them, our little 6's only have 4 head bolts per, cylinder with 2 shared, the clamping force you get when using a good stud will far exceed, that of a bolt, (due to the fine thread nut, and grade of metal used) not to mention that it saves the blocks threaded holes, I would say use them in any forced induction app. as for tighteding them I think mines was torqued down to 70 foot pounds with moly lube, I torque my bolts in stages like most do, only I go one step further, after the final torque let the motor sit over night, go back loosen each bolt one at a time and retorque to your final torque number, if you do this you'll see why, as each bolt will end up turning another 1/4 turn or better at the same torque,

 

[hasa68mustang]

Well I went ahead and ordered them. I also ordered some eye candy stuff (an alloy valve cover and a chrome t-stat housing) I am trying to spruce up the engine bay as you can see. Tommy