Autolite 1101 wows and woes
- Thread starter cmm24601
- Start date
"...missing the spark control valve…"
BINGO
just cuz his sig sez '69 doesn't mean the carb/distrib are. May B it's scv/lom?
"...and the vent valve rod and spring. What do those do?…"
Always read the recommended material 1st (Handbook, CI Tech Archive).
cmm: ck the 4th horizontal line above - click on it and absorb…U won't need us then (almost).
BINGO
just cuz his sig sez '69 doesn't mean the carb/distrib are. May B it's scv/lom?
"...and the vent valve rod and spring. What do those do?…"
Always read the recommended material 1st (Handbook, CI Tech Archive).
cmm: ck the 4th horizontal line above - click on it and absorb…U won't need us then (almost).
Here's a fun update...
1. no warm air is coming out of the manifold. The heat tube is clean. I held my hand over to hole for the tube in the exhaust manifold and felt no air coming out. Is it possible the manifold is not installed correctly? I suppose i could take it off and see... but that will have to be later because...
2. i attempted to adujst the timing, which i've done several times before. I disconnected the vacuum advance, yet somehow while turning the distributor, the ignitor wires got sucked into the distributor cap wrapped around everything and ripped the ground lead off my brand new pertronix ignitor. Another $80 in the trash can. The worst part is i'm not sure what happened. Any ideas? What could have caused the ignitor to get tangled?
1. no warm air is coming out of the manifold. The heat tube is clean. I held my hand over to hole for the tube in the exhaust manifold and felt no air coming out. Is it possible the manifold is not installed correctly? I suppose i could take it off and see... but that will have to be later because...
2. i attempted to adujst the timing, which i've done several times before. I disconnected the vacuum advance, yet somehow while turning the distributor, the ignitor wires got sucked into the distributor cap wrapped around everything and ripped the ground lead off my brand new pertronix ignitor. Another $80 in the trash can. The worst part is i'm not sure what happened. Any ideas? What could have caused the ignitor to get tangled?
Howdy Back:
Q- "1. no warm air is coming out of the manifold. The heat tube is clean. I held my hand over to hole for the tube in the exhaust manifold and felt no air coming out. Is it possible the manifold is not installed correctly? I suppose i could take it off and see... but that will have to be later because..."
A- that is correct. No air should coming out of the heat tube hole. The tube to the choke sucks hot air through that hole. If something is coming out of the exhaust manifold hole the manifold is broken and leaking exhaust gas.
Adios, David
Q- "1. no warm air is coming out of the manifold. The heat tube is clean. I held my hand over to hole for the tube in the exhaust manifold and felt no air coming out. Is it possible the manifold is not installed correctly? I suppose i could take it off and see... but that will have to be later because..."
A- that is correct. No air should coming out of the heat tube hole. The tube to the choke sucks hot air through that hole. If something is coming out of the exhaust manifold hole the manifold is broken and leaking exhaust gas.
Adios, David
Yes, it's just physics - heat rises all over the earth. W/folks who have headers we just wrap the tube around a 'pipe' or lay it over there. Just B sure clean & close/around/in the hear of the exhaust. Im thinkin it's with the lill 'spring' up in the black circular housing or rust/restriction in the moving members up there. May B the lill channels in the carb bottom (if you've been to the 2 referenced resources (CI & the Handbook) you'll C all the channels. Does the 'butter fly' easily flap back'n forth?
The wire may have been eat up cuz the points replacement was NOT screwed down tight & loosened. That plate below it moves, the dizzy shaft spun & grabed the wire.
The wire may have been eat up cuz the points replacement was NOT screwed down tight & loosened. That plate below it moves, the dizzy shaft spun & grabed the wire.
Thanks guys. The heat tube is clean and clear. I was thinking the spring might be bad as well. I'll take the cap off and inspect it. my choke linkage isn't set up quite right. I can't seem to figure it out. I have checked the CI Manual thank you!
Could someone send or post a pic of the correctly set up choke linkage?
As far as the ignitor... It was tightened down. Has been for months. The only thing i can figure is that I wiggled the wires just enough that they caught the spinning dizzy. I'm a little nervous about it happening again to the new one, but I guess I will just need to make sure the wires are secured better.
:arg:
Could someone send or post a pic of the correctly set up choke linkage?
As far as the ignitor... It was tightened down. Has been for months. The only thing i can figure is that I wiggled the wires just enough that they caught the spinning dizzy. I'm a little nervous about it happening again to the new one, but I guess I will just need to make sure the wires are secured better.
:arg:
cmm24601":h1wft9uf said:
Just to clarify, the hole that goes clear through the exhaust manifold, that the tubing is inserted into, is what I was referring to. If that is clear, along with the tubing, you should be getting a lot of heat up to the choke housing.
You want to adjust the choke so that when the engine is cold it just closes the choke. Not more, not less. Make sure the linkage is not keeping the choke open when you make the adjustment. Mark it, then if you find the choke opens to quickly as the engine is warming and starts to stumble in it's idle then turn it a tick towards more closed or 'rich' if it's so marked. And vice versa if you find the opposite.
Good luck
Howdy back All and cmm:
I can't believe I haven't suggested this before now. A rebuild kit includes a very complete set of instructions (with illustrations) to help with disassembly and assembly. A kit will cost in the neighborhood of $50. The instruction sheet is probably worth that all by itself. Plus a good disassembly, cleaning, adjustments, new gaskets and correct assembly won't hurt either.
The hole in the exhaust manifold passes through from bottom to top. The hole could be gunked up and not allowing air to pass through so running a piece of coat hanger through, top to bottom is a good idea.
When working properly heated air is sucked up into the choke housing by engine vacuum, so the vacuum channels inside the carb must also be clear and working for the heat to get to the spring coil inside the bakelite housing.
Econolines advice on setting the choke is right on, assuming that all is open and working as designed. Any plugs or leaks and who knows.
I think the time has come for you to invest in a rebuild kit. Start by reading and rereading the instruction sheet. And keep us posted.
Adios, David
I can't believe I haven't suggested this before now. A rebuild kit includes a very complete set of instructions (with illustrations) to help with disassembly and assembly. A kit will cost in the neighborhood of $50. The instruction sheet is probably worth that all by itself. Plus a good disassembly, cleaning, adjustments, new gaskets and correct assembly won't hurt either.
The hole in the exhaust manifold passes through from bottom to top. The hole could be gunked up and not allowing air to pass through so running a piece of coat hanger through, top to bottom is a good idea.
When working properly heated air is sucked up into the choke housing by engine vacuum, so the vacuum channels inside the carb must also be clear and working for the heat to get to the spring coil inside the bakelite housing.
Econolines advice on setting the choke is right on, assuming that all is open and working as designed. Any plugs or leaks and who knows.
I think the time has come for you to invest in a rebuild kit. Start by reading and rereading the instruction sheet. And keep us posted.
Adios, David