balancer thread normal or reverse?

[cr_bobcat]

Before I twist this thing into oblivion I thought it might behoove me to double check if the balancer bolt is reverse threaded or not. Any of the Aussie members should realize I'm in the northern hemisphere and account for the Corrialis effect. First correct answer shall receive a virtual high five. Go!

 

[woodbutcher]

Every balancer bolt that I have come across is standard RH thread(turn left to loosen),and I have been messing with this stuff since I was 10 years old.I`m now 68.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

 

[xctasy]

Every balancer bolt that I have come across is standard RH thread(turn left to loosen),and I have been messing with this stuff since I was 10 years old.I`m now 68.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

Righty tightee, leftee loosey, except for Corvairs, Serpentine drive fan clutches and one side of the car for old Chrysler Corp Mopar wheel nuts :roll: . It's just the fan clutches are often listed as left hand thread on the radiator decal, which then messes us up trying to think of what that excludes when we attack a clockwise from the driver engine.

Inccidentley, the comedy merchant Mr Bean used to have issues with what was left and right from the drivers seat... after stabbing the dentist http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lW6R9kSGV2Q, he did this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=shIknlPS0oQ

 

[ludwig]

Righty tightee, leftee loosey, except for Corvairs, Serpentine drive fan clutches and one side of the car for old Chrysler Corp Mopar wheel nuts

Every Mopar driver knows or quickly learns that you only put the lug nuts in the hubcaps for EACH wheel. You don't gather them all in a central location.

 

[woodbutcher]

Yep that old Chrysler stuff was a PITA for sure.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

 

[powerband]

... working in a tire shop , old Mopar cars typically had at least one LEFT side wheel lug twisted off from earlier work , why five lugs?, four works fine and three does on some cars...

have fun

 

[cr_bobcat]

I love the way they engineer things in NZ. If your shed is anything like this I'm makinga pilgrimage.

http://www.asciimation.co.nz/beer/

Cheers!

 

[woodbutcher]

:rolflmao: The lengths some people will go for a cold beer.LOVE IT. Keep up the good work.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

 

[cr_bobcat]

Huh. Any recommendations on how to keep the engine from turning?

Oh, and I did find out that I have a broken engine mount. Not surprising. I'd had a broken tranny mount for a long time apparently. I've replaced that mount 3 times since I've owned the car. This beast definitely doesn't have enough gumption to split that thing on it's own.

This is just called "learnin" right?

 

[powerband]

... back to topic:

Huh. Any recommendations on how to keep the engine from turning? :

an old V'belt and big Vise-Grips with an Impact Wrench , ( I like the Chain-Vise Grip) or other more questionable ways involving a Breaker-BAr and bumping the starter...

"71 Maverick dual V balancer on odd C5DE 200 (RIP):
.

have fun

 

[ludwig]

You could do it with the TDC finder method. Screw a bolt down the front plug hole and pull on the nut counterclockwise until the piston stops. Then lay on the breaker bar to loosen the bolt.

Also, I believe there is a hole in one of the lobes on the crankshaft for just this purpose. You stick a bolt or a steel dowel in it and it bumps onto the edge of the block, holding the crank while you jerk and tug and beat on your breaker bar to unscrew the bolt.

 

[cr_bobcat]

I tried the bolt through the hole method yesterday. That's how I found out that I had a broken motor mount. Lifted the engine right up New motor mounts are ordered.

Also acquired an impact gun from a friend. Clearance problems with the deepwell socket so I'll be hittin the tractor supply shop today to find a usable alternative. Thought about using one of my standard sockets but decided that probably wasn't in my best interests.

 

[ludwig]

Drop the pan. Find the hole in the crank. Pull the crank around until it stops and put a 2 foot pipe on your breaker bar. You might want to tap and pound and otherwise heat and cool the bolt to break any corrosion there might be.

 

[cr_bobcat]

Maybe I'll just try tequila. After 3 shots the bolt should just fall out, right? Works on me...

 

[timdog]

I just did this myself to replace the timing cover seal. I re-did the rear main seal and oil pan at the same time. And the water pump / thermostat. Here's how I did it on my 66 Mustang.

Remove the fan and belt. Remove the Radiator.

Get a breaker bar and a pipe. Put the breaker bar on the nut attaching the balancer to the crank, and put the pipe on the breaker.

The pipe should be long enough so you can wedge the breaker bar between the frame.

Tap the starter once for just a split second. The pipe should be wedged under the frame to prevent it from spinning, which will loosen the nut when the crank spins. Viola.

Remove the damper with the proper puller.

The hard part will be getting the nut back on to it's correct torque of 90 ft-lbs. Be sure not to pound on the crank when re-installing the daper. The thrust bearings were not intended to take this kind of load. Use a nut / bolt.

Since I had the oil pan off, I wedged a small piece of 2x4 wood between the #1 crank lobe and block to prevent it from spinning while applying torque.