Bell housing locating pins

[Anonymous]

Howdy all.

Simple questions I hope:

There are a couple of pins on the back of my 170 - they look like they were inserted for use with some kind of manual transmission.

I am now going to be attaching this thing to a C4 Automatic.

One of the pins is located up high on the back of the block. I tried to ease it out with a pair of vise grips, but it will not budge. It needs to be in a different hole for the C4 assembly I believe.

How does one get these things out?

Are new ones readily available at a local auto parts store? What are they really called?

Here is a pic:

Thanks,

-Zim

 

[kukm66]

Zim:

From the looks of that block, you have a 200 with the dual bolt pattern.

 

[grocery getter]

yes,that is a dual pattern block.

you might want to run a propane torch around the pins.

That high side one shouldn't be in your way.

 

[Anonymous]

Well, it obviously has the pattern for at least 2 different bell housings.

But...

The tag on the block reads:

170 67 7
6-K 16-A

Though I admit it is very possible the tag could have been changed by someone at some point...

The block itsealf reads C6DE-6015-A

And - there are only 3 freeze plug on it.

So - is it a 170 or not?

-Zim

 

[grocery getter]

sorry for stating the obvious :roll:

at the risk of doing it again, it's a 170

according to the ford six handbook it's from a falcon.

the odd thing is the handbook says under the 170 header "ALL dual bell patterns are '68 to '72

 

[addo]

I'd suggest the Handbook is just covering its options - doesn't mean a '67 can't be dual drilled. The steel dowel may well be standard size drill rod - what does it actually measure?

An unwanted and (otherwise) irremovable one could probably be centre drilled and crushed inwards to loosen. Check your penetration depth off the blank hole first...

Regards, Adam.

 

[kukm66]

Well, it looks like the 170 rear flange was changed in 1966. I have a 1965 that does not have the dual pattern.

Anyone have additional pics of 170's for that year?

 

[XFlow_Fairlane]

weld a bolt to it and use a slide hammer to pull it out?

weld a washer on the head of it and pry it up?

I would if you could just run a die on it and stack a couple washers under a nut and just back it out that way?

I need to remove one from a block I have that got bent in the past so I am looking for tips too. Also looking to maybe put longer ones in for a spacer plate to run a REAL flexplate.

 

[Anonymous]

sorry for stating the obvious :roll:

No apologies necessary. The only thing that is truly obvious here is that I do not know what I am doing (yet)!

I come from the V8 Mustang crowd - usually hang out over on the VMF.

But my Ranchero was a 6 at birth - and I just ripped out a 302 V8 so I could return it to its former glory!

Does anyone know if these pins are readily available at the usual auto parts stores?

What are they really called?

Thanks for the help everyone!

I will probably be darkening your doorsteps often now that I have this new project!

-Zim

 

[XFlow_Fairlane]

you can prob order the pins from mcmaster or even at a hardware store. jsut a standard sixed SAE type pin. they might be longer but just trim them down shorter. if I can get this flexplate built I will be running +1/4" ones for a spacer plate.

 

[matt1967]

I'd suggest the Handbook is just covering its options - doesn't mean a '67 can't be dual drilled. The steel dowel may well be standard size drill rod - what does it actually measure?

An unwanted and (otherwise) irremovable one could probably be centre drilled and crushed inwards to loosen. Check your penetration depth off the blank hole first...

Regards, Adam.

my '66 ( '67 model year car ) 200 is dual drilled.

 

[kukm66]

So apparently when Ford went to the dual pattern in 66 for the 200, they redesigned the 170 block as well. I was wondering if that happened.

If anyone has a clean block and can snap some pics of the passenger side showing the block number and also catching a view of the rear flange, this should be put into a database for future reference.

 

[Anonymous]

I can snap a good pic of it.

The odd thing about it is that I know that Ford discontinued using the
170 in 1964 on the Mustang. The earliest 6 cylinder Mustangs had them
but the base model went up to the 200 at the same time as the switch
to alternators in Aug. 64.

So I was surprised to find this thing with a '66 date part number and
a 67 dated engine tag. As someone else mentioned, must have been from
a Falcon or some such thing.

-Zim

 

[MustangSix]

I've always just grabbed them tightly with vice grips and turned them back and forth until they came out. The vice grip mars them up pretty good, so I just turn them around and tap it back in.

Weird on the casting number. That's the casting number for a 66 design 200 with the dual pattern bell face, but it should have five freeze plugs and seven main bearings. If you had the head off you could measure the bore. It would be interesting to see how many main bearing this thing has as well.

Probably an Early Bronco engine?

 

[Anonymous]

To answer your question- It's called a DOWEL PIN

 

[Anonymous]

I can snap a good pic of it.

Well - here goes:

-Zim

 

[addo]

Weird oil pan. I think Jack is on the money - early Bronco. Wonder what bore of distributor hole it has?

 

[MustangSix]

That's definitely a Bronco pan.

I'd really be interested to know whether it has a 4-main or 7-main crank. Is there a dipstick hole on the left side of the engine?

 

[Anonymous]

Its probably apropriate if it came out of a Bronco. I am going to be putting it back into a Ranchero!

Here is the only pic I have of the left side so far...

-Zim

 

[MustangSix]

If it's going into a 'chero, you'll need to change the pan & pickup and put the dipstick on the left side. Looks like the hole is there.