best set-up for a daily-driver mustang 200cui

[stang65]

hi
i`m marcus from germany
i have 2 stangs a 67 conv with V8
and my daily driver except for winter
a 65 hardtop with the 200 cui 6banger
the engine is stock and the stang runs great
but i want a little more power
first thing i want to do is to ad a header because the original is cracked
what about the carb set-up??
should i take the
-holley weber 5200
-autolite 2100
-holley 350
-tri-power set-up with 3 autolites
or anything else??
please give me your opinion
(remember it is a daily driver)
that would be great
marcus

 

[hasa68mustang]

The first thingsI did to my car was a holley 500cfm carb, the head to mount it on, duraspark ignition, header, and a cam, valvesprings, and seals, and an adj. timing chain. When adding 1 item there wasnt really much of a noticable but in the end the car ran 17's and got pretty bad gas mileage.

 

[JackFish]

-tri-power set-up with 3 autolites

I like the classic/retro look! 8)

 

[Bobscoupe]

For a driver I would go with,

Holley 350. Easier to tune than multi carb set-ups. Rebuild kits available.
With proper tuning can be economical. Direct mount (perferred,) or via Clifford adaptor (if machining cost are a factor).

Bob

 

[falcon fanatic]

Holley 350, header, DUI ignition. Done and you've only spent a little more than $1,000.

 

[stang65]

thanks for your answers
i like some more opinions

what abaut the holley-weber 5200
with a clifford adapter

there are a lot of headers
do you have links where i can see and buy the different ones
which one is the right one for a daily driver

 

[cfmustang]

The 5200 can be a bit of a bear to get tuned correctly, but once it is dialed in, provides some nice performance and economy.

 

[thinman56]

Marcus, the common starting point for most of us is the Ford Falcon Six Cylinder Performance Handbook, by the David and Dennis Schjedahl. Indispesible info. also check the Ford Six Performance Parts shop linked to this forum, the FSPP headers with the ceramic coating are top notch, fit lke they're suppsoed to and my coating is unchanged after a year.

prosit...

 

[stang65]

@thinman
nice fastback
i`ve only seen one with a 6banger here in germany
most mustangs are V8 here
are there any other tips or opinions?
more more more

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Marcus and all:

Hey Marcus- how about some more information from you?

What trans?

What is your use for this car? Is it daily transportation? What about economy? What are you're long range goals for this car and engine?

What is your budget? How much do you plan to do? Are you looking for restoring ideas? resto-rod? Street racer? track only? Are you looking for simple bolt ons, internal mods or both?

Is this a "jig-saw puzzle" project, one piece at a time, or are you going to tackle everthing at once.

I run a Clifford single out header that has been coated by HPC on my modified 250. I chose a single out/single 2" exhaust system because it is lighter, less prone to corrosion and rust, and takes less space in my '65 Rancero. My Ranchero is a daily driver, with ocassional burst of exuberant driving (grin).

I ran a modified cast log manifold with a 2" exhaust system with a DynaMax Turbo muffler and a port divider installed in the head. I switched to the header system at the same time , so it is hard to determine what performance came from which change.

I have a 2300 Holley #4412 two barrel carb mounted directly to a D8xx head. The head and cam, a Comp 260, are performance matched. It is necessary to remove the head to accomplish the modifications necessary to mount a wide base two barrel. This carb is probably not appropriate for your mild application. I have also used several different Autolite two barrels with good success, as well as Autolite #1100 and #1101 one barrel carbs. The Autolite one barrels are compatible with the stock '66 Load-a-Matic distributor. The Autolite 2100 two barrels, are a simplier version of the 2300 Holley, and have annular discharge venturi for a better mix and vacuum signal- a plus for everyday street driving and economy.

Many here have stepped up to a two barrel using a funnel adapter available from several sources, but, the adapter raises the carb an additional 2" and may cause hood clearance issues. I don't believe that a funnel adapter will deliver the same performance as a direct mounted 2 barrel.

The two barrel swap will also necessitate converting to a later distributor,a throttle cable linkage system and a different air cleaner.

I have no personel experience with the Holly/Weber progressice two barrel carbs, but they do make sense for a daily driver and fuel economy. They are less impacted with the use of a funnel adapter.

I am using a recurved DuraSpark II ignition system with an MSD coil. It work very well. I got it, as a unit from the local junk yard, cleaned and modified it and it has run well for about 3 years now. I had switched my stock '65 200 from the 1100 one barrel and the Load-a-Matic distributor to an Autolite 1101 and a '68 point-type distributor with both centrifugal and vacuum advance. That was a nice upgrade- And everything looked stock. It tore up the stock 2.77 non-synchro three speed pretty quickly though.

Now, how about some more info on what you've got, what you've done and what your goals are.

Adios, David

 

[stang65]

hi
the car is a daily driver
it has a C4 transmission
the fuel price in germany is 1.30 €
expensive i know
so mpg should be good
i need no race car to work
but a little more bang would be good
the motor at this time is stock
two years ago i bought a new 5200 because it was so cheap i must have it
i also have a used clifford adapter
but i don`t know if it`s the right choice
i`m in search of a header
because the old exhaust manifold is cracked and blows
no racer
daily transportation with a little more power and good mpg

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Back:

The 5200 is a good choice given your criteria and since you already own it. They work fairly well through an adapter. It will take some adaptation of linkage and an air cleaner. Watch hood clearance as you go. The 5200 properly tuned may be the best choice for economy and an increase in power. Do a search on this forum for input and ideas from those who have done this.

You will need to upgrade your stock '65 Load-a-matic Vacuum advance only to be compatible with the 5200. I like the Ford DuraSpark II ignition system for simplicity and low cost. It includes the distributor, coil, module, plug wires and wiring harness. It is easy to wire into your '65 system. Do a search on this site for wiring diagrams.

The combination of the 5200 and the DuraSpark II ignition system, properly tuned, will be a nice combo of increased power, economy, driveability and ease of maintainance.

A Header on an otherwise stock engine are likely to be somewhat disappointing. Since you have a leaking manifold now, that offers incentive to go with a header. But know that they are a relatively expensive addition and without an improved head, compression and cam they will never realize their potential. If you plan a comprehensive rebuild in the future, then consider headers an investment in that future. Whatever header you go with, get it coated or winter, condensation and road grim will have them rusted away.

Now let us know what your long range plan is for your car, your budget and your abilities.

Adios, David

 

[Anonymous]

Not to derail the thread Marc, but where did you find your cars and about how many euros did you spend? I ask because I'm stationed in Germany and I need to buy a car.

 

[stang65]

@ djdanno
where are you stationed?
@cz
my budget at the moment is small
because at the moment i`m building a house

what about the rest of you 6banger guys
what have you done to your daily driver
bye marcus

 

[80Stang]

what about the rest of you 6banger guys what have you done to your daily driver
bye marcus

My slight mods you can check at my website. It may not be optimal setup for daily driving mostly due to MPG issues (about 21) and the same price on the gas here as down there in Germany. I'm considering not to drive next winter(s) due to rust issues that the salt on the roads cause to old cars, and due to plans on developing the car further in the field of engine and suspension. I think it is time for a total rebuild.

 

[stang65]

is someone
selling a used header
for my stang

 

[wallaka]

It's like a haiku! And check the for sale section.

 

[Anonymous]

@ djdanno
where are you stationed?
@cz
my budget at the moment is small
because at the moment i`m building a house

what about the rest of you 6banger guys
what have you done to your daily driver
bye marcus

Right now my home base is in Idar-Oberstien, it's down in the south west corner near France in case you don't know where it is. I'm not actually in Germany right now as I'm deployed, but I'll be back by October.

 

[CobraSix]

For a daily driver:

go with the 2100.

I know that may be blasphemy for some people, but I'll explain.

the 2100 is a rock solid carb. It doesn't have infinite tunability of a Holley 350/500 but once you get it set up to run, it will pretty much run for years with no adjusting or rebuilding. They are diehard carbs. Arguably the best 2V production carb every put on a car from the factory. Easy to get parts for. Cheap to find. Easy to rebuild (a 2100 was the first carb I ever rebuilt).

Consider some form of electronic ignition. I don't want to open the debate between electronic versus points. I don't think you'll gain much performance but you gain some reliability and less maintenance (important for a daily driver).

If you want to get crazy on your daily driver, since you didn't state the transmission type, consider putting a T5 in if you have a manual transmission.



HOnestly though, I could never beat my 1V 1101 for my car as a daily driver. I would advise against a 3-1V set up. I tried that. It can be finicky to no end. Once you get it tuned, it is fine, but for me it kept losing tune so easily. And with multiple carbs, you are increase complexity and chance for vacuum leaks. I never had an issue with leaks except after I had a nasty backfire that blew out one of the o-rings on the log-manifold interface, but I always carried flat stock plats cut and drilled to cover the outer carb holes if they started to leak.


To me, key things for a daily driver is simplicity. Avoid overaly complex set ups. Avoid exotic parts. Stick to things you can find replacement parts for at Autozone (or the like). That's what I've been slowly moving my car to. I'm trying to limit any specialty parts. What specialty parts I do have are generally structural or non0wear items so they don't get replaced anyways (ie, if my intake manifold breaks, I have bigger issues).

Slade