Better conductor.

John_mcgarvie

Active member
Okay so I am having trouble with my distributor. Pic cap keeps getting carbon buildup I'm wondering if I get the cap inner terminals and the rotor button plated with gold $20 expense if that sounds like a feasible idea Gold is a better conductor but I don't know how it will take the abuse of the spark jumping
 
John_mcgarvie":2ohw5clx said:
Okay so I am having trouble with my distributor. Pic cap keeps getting carbon buildup I'm wondering if I get the cap inner terminals and the rotor button plated with gold $20 expense if that sounds like a feasible idea Gold is a better conductor but I don't know how it will take the abuse of the spark jumping

that gold plating would last seconds, before burning off...

As for the burt cap issue, is your ignition system in good shape? i.e. proper dwell (if you have points), proper plug gap, good wires, etc? too wide/narrow a points gap can do things like this...
 
that gold plating would last seconds, before burning off...

As for the burt cap issue, is your ignition system in good shape? i.e. proper dwell (if you have points), proper plug gap, good wires, etc? too wide/narrow a points gap can do things like this...[/quote]

I didnt think it would work it was a quick thought
But my plugs are gaped 35 and my wires are new and cap and button
 
One sorce for the good brass contacts and high quality distribor caps and rotors is NAPA auto parts in their better Echlin line, also Autolite and I think MotorCraft, should also be. Good luck :nod:
 
wouldn't be in the coil or box (wrong models or defects)?
 
I have a brass terminal cap and rotor button looks the same but has a copper tab where it hits the dizzy
They look better so im glad i ordered them but i was reading this morning and it said i hafe to put a relay on my distributor because i installed a patronix

I thought everything gets 12 volts but i got a mountable relay and im going to hook it up.
 
Most vehicles came with a resistance wire between the ignition switch and coil as a ballast resistor.
The power relay is used to bypass any resistance wire so the petronix module gets full 12 volts.
 
pmuller9":1zh2mbb9 said:
Most vehicles came with a resistance wire between the ignition switch and coil as a ballast resistor.
The power relay is used to bypass any resistance wire so the petronix module gets full 12 volts.
Good idea.
Also check if the rotor & cap are correct for your distributor.
Upgrade to a DS11 & the necessary components & you will not be disappointed.
 
I am running the Pertonix I ignitor and flamethrower coil on my '66 Mustang coupe. I ran it for a year with the pink resistor wire in place with no issues. I recently did a complete rebuild on the engine and wanted it to have the proper 12V power at the coil. According to the Pertronix tech, this combination does need full 12V power. I found this thread that has a diagram which made the bypass of the "pink wire" much easier to understand. Not sure what car you're working on but maybe this will help.

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/ ... it.769506/
 
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