BETTER NOW! Thoughts on new rebuilt engine (vent)

R

Ronbo

Famous Member
Basically, what a dog. I know the 2:83 gear ratio doesn't help but the thing ran better BEFORE the rebuild, with piston slop so bad I could move them around in the bore with my finger. All stock components (like before except 40 over instead of 30 over), same dish to the pistons (as far as the eye can tell), headers, H/W 5200 carb (part of the problem I'm sure), and new dist. w/Pertronix. After working through some problems, I can't help but think I'm missing something major. Timing chain was installed properly. I took apart the dist. to make sure all pieces were moving freely. Changed the centrifigul advance over to the 18 slot and used a light - heavy spring combo. I adjusted the timing until I got ping then backed it off a tad. Even the parking brake is off! :lol:

Maybe the linkage is part of it. I went to cable and threw the rod set up away. Carb isn't opening as fast, I dont know. Its so bad that I have a hard time getting up some of the hills around here (eastern GA, not very big ones). Bleh! :(
 
Just a few thoughts that leap to mind, and I have no idea if they're ones that makes any sense, but ...

By any chance did you use a head gasket that is significantly thicker than the old one?

Also, it sounds like you changed carbs. Is it possible that you simply don't have it dialed in properly yet?

Speaking of the carb, did you include a fuel pressure regulator when you installed the HW 5200? From what I have read they seem to get goofy if you put full pressure from a stock fuel pump into them.

Maybe it's something else. I dunno.

:)
 
One of the things that come to mind . Is the carb opening all the way up..Have someone push on the pedal and look down the carb (motor not running) and see if the butterfly is all the way open...
Tim
 
pedal2themetal45":2eoe7rfj said:
One of the things that come to mind . Is the carb opening all the way up..Have someone push on the pedal and look down the carb (motor not running) and see if the butterfly is all the way open...
Tim
Click to expand...

Good point.

:)
 
How many miles are on it I'm thinkin carb not opening, choke, not opening, or maybe blowby from a fresh rebuild. Some times it just takes a little time to loosen up a tight engine.
 
A few thoughts

Is your firing order correct?

Is it firing on all six?

Is your timing advancing when given throttle?

Is your carb flooding over?

Are the throttle plates opening all the way?

Are you valves adjusted properly?

Compression?
 
Folks,
As always, I really appreciate the input! Cable adjustment is ok, carb opens all the way. Timing, I "assumed" it was advancing because I took it to spark knock and backed down. I'll check that and lastly compression. :? I sure hope that isn't an issue because that is what started the whole rebuild. The carb was on the last engine as well but had been there since 2001 and was a rebuild at that time. If nothing else, all the crud from the motor plugged up the carb over time and made it work better. When I rebuilt it, said crud was gone. So that could be part of the problem. The throttle shaft has about 1/8" play in it. Valve adjustment, non-adjustable, back to compression test and possibly too long a push-rod.
Lastly, no kick down cable because I dont want to hook it up to take it off when I re-torque the head. There is some coolant seepage around the head, is that normal after 200 miles or so?


Ron
 
There shouldn't be any coolant seepage really. That said, many people advocate runnin the first few miles with pure water so that sealants may fully cure.

How long between stages of torque on the head - no time at all, or minutes, or hours?

Check that dizzy. And PLEASE try it with some points...
 
Because the Pertronix seems to be the biggest piece o' shit out there when it comes to ignitions.

SO many people have had "mystery ignition problems" that turned out to be a failed pertronix.
 
Throttle shaft with 1/8 inch play?...Like in loose? If so, it's probably sucking in the whole outside world at the wrong place rather than going down through the carb as it should. Have you checked the vacuum?
 
Just for fun, do a vacuum check using the port on the exhaust manifold. Check the readings at idle, then open the throttle and see what the results are. This will eliminate at least a few problems from the mystery.
 
Saying that a Pertronix is crap shows a lack of class, age, and knowledge , Ive used More pertronix conversions in customers Dists than any other brand , and I have NEVER had a failure !! , Can they fail , sure but its rare , biggest cause is a dead battery , followed by charging the battery with the key left on , or crossing the the leads Neg to Pos , and Pos to Neg, now that being said , the 18 slot is way too much Mech advance, you need to limit it 8-10 all in by 2800, and run more initial, the way it is now Id be amazed if you have more than 6 initial , also run the Vac advance at a ported source and adjust your Vac advance to give an aditional 10 degrees not starting below 10 inches of Vac all in by 15 , NOW if this seems Kinda technical , its because it is , lots more involved than buying a 925d Mr Gasket spring kit, and calling it recurved , I have currently 5 Dists at My shop now all are customers from the FE Forum and AND for a short history deal I also recurved a Dist for one of the brothers of the Falcon Handbook shortly before their second addition came out ( Great book by the way ) , I am not looking for work from this forum , I am plenty busy , I only want to Help,
 
Yes FSD we all know how smart and experienced you are, you remind us of it each time you post. Thanks again.

There are still plenty of people on this board who have had their Pertronix fail.

What other evidence do you need?
 
From memory, the early Pertronix fitted by people here, had the tape wound the wrong way for 6 cylinder distributor rotation - it meant that a loose end was "snagged" and thus unravelled - rather than just brushed past.

Failure from leaving the key on, was another problem - but generally that could be suggested as a failure to read the directions!
 
And you still dissed the product, then you said , so many people have had problems , I would be curious to How many , So Many just sounds like a uniformed opinion, and Yes I have mentioned my experience in my Posts , Because I have experience , and am proud of my reputation and yes I take offense to those that diss me , But I do respect the right of anyones opinion that's what forums are for , now with enough Barbs thrown I'll let the Subject get back to helping Person that started this thread and take it from there, My E-mail is open to any and all that want to ask Quesions
 
addo":3fhxk5re said:
From memory, the early Pertronix fitted by people here, had the tape wound the wrong way for 6 cylinder distributor rotation - it meant that a loose end was "snagged" and thus unravelled - rather than just brushed past.

Failure from leaving the key on, was another problem - but generally that could be suggested as a failure to read the directions!
Click to expand...

...

There have been numerous people here over the years that have had their pertronix II (and a few w/ the pertronix I) fail. As a result, it is red flag when someone starts having running problems. It's something that should be checked.
 
For whats its worth, i have used or installed over 25 pertronix I, however the pertronix II just from my use has been a disaster.
Has caused random stalling & engine cutting off when at low engine speeds.
The pertronix I is a great improvement over points.
I like the duraspark ignition much better than the pertronix.
If you want the stock look use the pertronix I.

Back to the distributor advance plate. Using the 18 degrees slot is way too much centrifigul advance.
What you need all depends on compression, camshaft duration & several other variables.
Each engine combination requires a different configuration.
Using a sun distributor machine to fine tune an advance is invaliable.
Having used a sun machine for years myself what FSD says you can take to the bank. Bill
 
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