Bolt a 2bbl adapter to the intake w/ right orientation!

[jamyers]

Here's a labeled closeup shot, I used an old Ford brass fitting from my old 170, threaded it into the manifold hole, then got a couple of brass hose barbs sized accordingly from Lowe's hardware, the big one for the PCV, and smaller one for the distributor vacuum advance.

"Too many" vacuum lines won't hurt the engine at all unless one is leaking, and with 3 (pcv, distributor, C4), you're way below what most later cars had (look at any 80's engine).

That factory-made tapped hole in the manifold right below the carb is a perfect place for a big strong signal, so as far as drilling and tapping into the Stovebolt adapter, I don't see any benefit.

 

[Anonymous]

I just put my autolite 2100 on mounted in the correct direction with the transdapt adpter from summit and the original ford spacer with the pcv port. Using a drop base air cleaner i have no hood clearance problems. I will try to get pics up soon (camera problem )

 

[Anonymous]

Which TD Performance carburetor adapter did you use with the 2100?

 

[Anonymous]

either one should work, there are two for two different size manifold openings, measure the bolt spacing of your manifold and get the one that matches.

 

[thinman56]

hey, 64falcon, how did that transadapt work with your 2100 carb? when i checked it out online it looked too shallow to give good flow.

thanks.....

 

[Anonymous]

Here's a labeled closeup shot, I used an old Ford brass fitting from my old 170, threaded it into the manifold hole, then got a couple of brass hose barbs sized accordingly from Lowe's hardware, the big one for the PCV, and smaller one for the distributor vacuum advance.

"Too many" vacuum lines won't hurt the engine at all unless one is leaking, and with 3 (pcv, distributor, C4), you're way below what most later cars had (look at any 80's engine).

That factory-made tapped hole in the manifold right below the carb is a perfect place for a big strong signal, so as far as drilling and tapping into the Stovebolt adapter, I don't see any benefit.

I am fitting a two barrel carb on my 66 200 with a 68 engine. Same as you did. I have a two barrel autolite.

Correct me if I'm wrong (and i very well could be ), but I thought there was a difference between vacuum off the log as indicated above and vacuum off the carb itself for distributor advance.

Just so I'm sure, my question is that there is no problem with using the manifold nut he shows (which I have as well) for PCV valve and vacuum advance to the distributor?

Here is a pic of my current set up and you can see the plug on the manifold right below the current PCV take off line. But note the current advance line comes from the carb not the manifold.

Thanks,
Steve-O

 

[LEROY POLL]

HI STEVE

.....YOUR CARB. HAS A LARGE DIAPHRAM (NUT) NEXT TO THE VACUUM TAKE OFF. THIS IS A VACUUM SWITCH. IT LETS THE DIST. SEE TWO DIFFERENT VACUUM SOURCES, ...MANIFOLD AND VENTURI. IT IS THE SPECIAL CARB. TO DIST. MATCH. IT'S CALLED THE LOAD-A-MATIC SYSTEM. AT THE TOP YOU CAN READ ABOUT IT.

.....I JUST WANT TO SAY THAT THE SYSTEM WORK VERY WELL. IT HAS ONLY ONE TIME THAT IT WILL NOT WORK UP TO WHAT MOST THINK IT SHOULD. THAT IS AT WIDE OPEN THROTTLE AT IDLE. OFF IDLE THE VACUUM WILL DROP TO YOUR 10-14* SETTING AT THAT POINT THE SWITCH WILL OPEN UP AND LET THE VENTURI VAC. TAKE OVER. THAT IS WHY THE SWITCH WAS PUT ON THE CARB. MOST ALL OTHER TIMES THE VACUUM FROM THE MANIFOLD WILL GO WITH THE LOAD OF THE MOTOR. AS LONG AS THE MOTOR IS RUNNING AND THE CAR IS GOING ABOUT 15 MPH THE SWITCH WONT COME INTO PLAY.

.....THE MOTOR AT 500 RPM'S GIVEN THE WOT WILL DROP THE MANIFOLD PRESSURE TOO LOW. BUT AT ANYOTHER TIME WITH THE CAR MOIVING THE MOTOR WILL BE ABLE TO HANDLE THE THE NEEDS FOR MORE ADVANCE. THEIR ARE MANY THINGS THAT IF LOOKED INTO YOU WOULD SEE THAT THE SYSTEM IS VERY GOOD. IT IS LIKE AN AUTO-TRANNY.... ANY GEAR YOU WANT.... JUST PUSH DOWN AND GO.

.... I STILL WORK ON CARS THAT HAVE THE SYSTEM AND MOST ARE NOT WORKING BECAUSE THE PEOPLE WORKING ON THEM TRY TO MAKE THEM DO SOMETHING THEY WONT DO. I HAVE SET MANY PEOPLE UP WITH THE RIGHT SETTING AND THEY CAN'T BELIEVE HOW MUCH BETTER IT WORKS. THEY SAY THEY WERE GETTING ABOUT 17 MPG. AND AFTER A TUNE UP THEY SAY THEY GET 23 MPG. THE ONLY THING I WOULD DO IS MAKE SURE EVERYTHING WAS RIGHT AND WORKING. MY ADVICE WOULD BE TO DO WHAT THE BOOK SAYS AND DON'T TRY TO CHANGE ANYTHING.

....BTW MOST CARS HAVE A PROBLEM OFF IDLE.

.....SEND ME AN E-MAIL IF YOU WANT TO KEEP THE MANIFOLD VAC. AND NOT CHANGE THE DISTR.

LIVE IN GRACE

LEROY POLL

 

[jamyers]

Leroy's right (but please stop yelling), it looks like you've got the Load-O-Matic distributor advance setup there. It can work well, but the later "regular" setup is considered by some to be better / easier to tune (opinions, opinions...). I had a LoadOMatic, but swapped to a later Duraspark, hance the manifold vacuum.

If you've got a loadomatic distributor, you'll absolutely want to keep your vacuum advance where it is, otherwise your advance will be all wrong.

If you ever swap out the loadomatic dizzy for a DuraSpark or later style, then I'd say to go with straight manifold vacuum.

 

[Anonymous]

Ok. so there's no confusion.

This is what I want to use:
Standard dizzy off a 68 (not load-o-matic)
Autolite 2100 2 bbl carb


I plan to use the manifold nut connection for my PCV line to the valve cover

And will use the vacuum take off on the side of the carb (found one) to my 68 distributor.

Sound okay?

Thaks for the help.

 

[Anonymous]

but I've since taken a BFH and adjusted it

BFH= big f@%#$&G Hammer?

 

[mustang6]

Yes Steve-O, that's the right/best way to hook it all up.

 

[jamyers]

Steve-O,

Sounds like you're on the right track - I'll suggest that you confirm the carb vacuum port is either ported or manifold vacuum (totally separate things from the Loadomatic), just so you'll know what you've got. They're the same except at closed throttle, when the ported vacuum is cut off. If the carb port if manifold vacuum, then you could use it or the manifold hole, they're the same.

BFH= big f@%#$&G Hammer?

Oh, yeahhhhh.
Similar to, but different from the BROSOR (Big Rock On Side Of Road)

 

[ludwig]

BHSD = big honkin' screw driver (usually Craftsman)

 

[Anonymous]

I installed my spare non load-o-matic dizzy last night. Had to do some minor grinding to get the pertronix to fit inside it without hitting the small metal piece from the diapraghm to the rotor.

Then removed the 1100 and installed the Autolite 2100.

It fit great with a tiny bit of grinding on the adapter and a few taps from the BFH on the valve cover.

Removed the I6 gas pedal and linkages. Easily installed a V8 gas pedal.

Hooked up all the vac and fuel lines...

Fired it up....started and ran on the first try. Really responsive and sounds great. Will need to fine tune and adjust. That will have to wait for the throttle cable install so I can back it out of the garage and don't gas myself to death.

At this point very happy with the upgrade to date.

Cheers,
Steve-O