Bonneville Falcon motor
- Thread starter A CALT Morris
- Start date
I like the big bore, short stroke combo also. One trick I've tried is to offset bore towards the minor thrust side (driver's side). How much you can go depends on your block and how much overbore you are doing. What this helps is it opens up more room around the valves which is very close to the bores even with stock size valves. It also leaves the major thrust side (passenger's side) with a thicker cylinder wall on the side where you need more strength.
On my new build I have .020 overbore pistons. Trying to keep the cylinder walls as thick as possible. The problem is the head I have was originally on a NA .070 overbore engine which I enlarged the chamber by the valves out to 3 3/4" but now it overhangs the smaller bore. I previously have been notching the bore (old Ford FE trick) but being turbocharged it exposes too much heat to the top ring so I plan on moving the cylinder head over. On the log head, the two end passenger side cylinder head bolt holes are smaller than the rest. They are used to locate the cylinder head and gasket. I plan on offset milling those two holes, maybe a touch of the others about .060, maybe more. Then I'll be able to slide the cylinder head over so the clearanced chamber does not overhang the cylinder bore.
With a reduced crank pin and offset ground for shorter stroke, lightweight vibration absorbing aluminum rods would probably fit without serious clearancing of the cam and lower cylinder wall.
Good luck. As always, get a second opinion.
On my new build I have .020 overbore pistons. Trying to keep the cylinder walls as thick as possible. The problem is the head I have was originally on a NA .070 overbore engine which I enlarged the chamber by the valves out to 3 3/4" but now it overhangs the smaller bore. I previously have been notching the bore (old Ford FE trick) but being turbocharged it exposes too much heat to the top ring so I plan on moving the cylinder head over. On the log head, the two end passenger side cylinder head bolt holes are smaller than the rest. They are used to locate the cylinder head and gasket. I plan on offset milling those two holes, maybe a touch of the others about .060, maybe more. Then I'll be able to slide the cylinder head over so the clearanced chamber does not overhang the cylinder bore.
With a reduced crank pin and offset ground for shorter stroke, lightweight vibration absorbing aluminum rods would probably fit without serious clearancing of the cam and lower cylinder wall.
Good luck. As always, get a second opinion.
A CALT Morris
New member
Drag=200stang
What type of clutch do you have behind that 537 flywheel hp motor?
I am thinking of a lightweight 5.5" dual disc but so far I've not found anyone who makes a steel flywheel for the 200 with the 5.5" clutch.
What type of clutch do you have behind that 537 flywheel hp motor?
I am thinking of a lightweight 5.5" dual disc but so far I've not found anyone who makes a steel flywheel for the 200 with the 5.5" clutch.
A CALT Morris,
The clutch I was running was a 289 10 1/2" flywheel and long style pressure plate that was adapted to fit the 200. The clutch spring pressure was beefed up and heavier counterweight levers were used. The disc was at the time experimental kevlar. My transmission is clutchless. The clutch doesn't have to be depressed to make shifts so the heavier counterweights help the clutch stay locked up. Was showing signs of slippage. New clutch is a Ram 11" long style adjustable pressure plate with a metallic six paddle disc. I'm sure there is a smaller diameter clutch that would be better for what I'm doing but I bought it before techniques to leave under boost were developed.
For what you're doing I think any explosion proof clutch would work fine. No need for an expensive small diameter clutch with the amount of distance you have to work with. But the issue is you can't get a 9" clutch that is explosion proof and the 8 1/2" won't hold. Good luck. Let us know what you decide.
The clutch I was running was a 289 10 1/2" flywheel and long style pressure plate that was adapted to fit the 200. The clutch spring pressure was beefed up and heavier counterweight levers were used. The disc was at the time experimental kevlar. My transmission is clutchless. The clutch doesn't have to be depressed to make shifts so the heavier counterweights help the clutch stay locked up. Was showing signs of slippage. New clutch is a Ram 11" long style adjustable pressure plate with a metallic six paddle disc. I'm sure there is a smaller diameter clutch that would be better for what I'm doing but I bought it before techniques to leave under boost were developed.
For what you're doing I think any explosion proof clutch would work fine. No need for an expensive small diameter clutch with the amount of distance you have to work with. But the issue is you can't get a 9" clutch that is explosion proof and the 8 1/2" won't hold. Good luck. Let us know what you decide.
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