Break-in oil

[Anonymous]

What is the best tupe of oil to use during engine break-in? I just bought a rebuilt 200 with about 1,000 miles on it, but know that break-in takes a little longer than that. The oil look's dirty anyhow, and i need to repalce the pan gasket. Aren't you suppossed to use non-detergent oil or something like that? And do those magnets that attatch to the oil filter work, or are they a waste of money?

S-man

 

[Falcon62]

My opinion, FWIW, is to use the same oil you intend to use during the engine's lifetime and change it, and the filter at 500, 1500, and 3,000 miles. Thereafter, I change it at 3,000 regardless. Most machining operations today are far superior to those of "yesteryear" and require much less "break-in" time as it were.

 

[Anonymous]

If anything, the magnet wouldn't hurt anything. You can get magnets for the oil pan, as well as the oil filter.

You might also consider running a screen over your oil filter, to catch any larger chunks before they jam it up. This also gives you a 'tool' of sorts to look for problems while you're changing your oil.

As for type of oil: just whatever you're going to run anyways will do the trick.

Jim

 

[Anonymous]

Suppossedly, it has 1,000 miles on it but the oil look's dirty so I'm going to drain it now and then again in 2,000 miles. I know it's not totally broken in my the hone marks on the cylinders I saw when I pulled the plugs. Who know's how it was treated (broken in) during the first 1k!

 

[Anonymous]

can you just stick any old magnet to the bottom of the oil pan?

 

[Anonymous]

Yeah, you could I guess. But you can't really clean off the metal over time unless it's the drainplug, and it might eventually break loose and flow through the engine. A magnet on the filter keeps the shavings, if you will, in the filter and then it get's changed for a fresh one every 3k

 

[Anonymous]

duh. Sorry. that make sense. But again, all ole magnet?