Broken Bolt removal tricks

[60FALCON]

Hi All,
I installed my waterpump and put the coolant in only to see it run out around the pump So I pull it apart again and try tightening the bolts, apparntly one of the three was tight enogh because it snapped :x . Does anyone have tips on how to remove a bolt broken off inside the block?

Thanks
Chris

 

[StrangeRanger]

The only way to do it in place is with an easy out.
CAREFULLY drill a very small pilot hole as close to the center of the bolt as possible. If there's a big enough flat surface to attach one, it's worthwhile to rent a magnetic base drill from a tool rental place. Enlarge the hole with a bigger drill of the size specified by the easy out manufacturer. Insert the easy out and back the stub out.

If this doesn't work, it's a trip to the machine shop.

 

[Guest]

Heat can work to if you are Very carefull with it. Works wonders on bolts that will not break free. Dont heat the bolt, but the metal around the bolt.

 

[Falcon62]

Good news is, if you snapped one of these bolts off, it will probably turn itself out as long as you didn't bottom it out in a blind hole. I can't remember if all three bolts run through into the water jacket.

I'd use a reverse rotation drill bit in a reversible drill and you will save yourself a lot of hassle. 8) Nine times out of ten the broken stub will come right out without having to resort to easy outs.

 

[60FALCON]

Hi,
Thanks for the suggestions two run into water jackets one does not and I broke the one that does not.

 

[Michael Mc]

If there's a bit of the stub sticking out, you could also use a drill in reverse (very slowly) if you're able to attach the chuck to the end sticking out.

If it's broken off clean, you'll have to use the other methods mentioned above.

 

[Lazy JW]

I'd use a reverse rotation drill bit in a reversible drill and you will save yourself a lot of hassle. 8) Nine times out of ten the broken stub will come right out without having to resort to easy outs.

Yup, those left-handed drill bits can be a life saver For extreme cases, hold a nut over the broken stud and weld right through the center of the nut, building up until you weld the nut to the stud. Then turn the nut out with a wrench. The heat from welding will help release the stud, so don't wait too long.You had better be a good welder to try that trick though, but it works.
Joe

 

[rickwrench]

When I did this very same thing, I was able to tack a washer to the end of the nub with the mig and back it out with some pliers. The crappy bolt broke off flush, in my case, at about ten ft lbs of torque. Since then I pretty much use new grade 8 bolts for everything.
Rick(wrench)

 

[CobraSix]

WOuld this work?

I've done it before. I cut a slot in the end of the bolt and unscrew it with a flat head screwdriver. Just an idea.

Slade

 

[Anonymous]

Hi,
My name is Mike. This is my first post here.

I just put an 80 200 in my 62 wagon. When we took the original coffee can smog exhaust manifold off to replace it with an early one, one of the manifold studs broke off flush with the block. My friend who is a heavy equipment mechanic said no problem and pulled out some extremely hight tensil welding rod (x-ergon#1000 ac- dc super high steel). He set his arc welder to DC. He welded a nut to the stud through the hole in the nut. We put a wrench on the nut and it pulled right out. When I looked at the stud afterword, the amount of weld actually attaching the nut to the stud wasn't much. My friend said that the high heat provided by the arc was directed to the stud to loosen it while the high tensil weld was strong enough to not twist off.

Mike A

 

[addo]

Hi, My name is Mike. This is my first post here.

Well, then. Do you think you can just sneak in like that? I've got news for you...

 

[Anonymous]

Ya, I did kind of just slip in rather stealthly. I have been Lurking for a few months. I've only had a Falcon about 10 months.

I decided to post because my experience fit right into this topic. When that broken bolt screwed out of my head with so little effort, I was really suprised. My friend says that often when he comes up to an old Cat to work on, he just assumes that some of the bolts will break off. In that case he will often torch the heads off of the bolts in question, then pull the head, manifold or what ever over the torched bolts, then weld a nut back on with that high tensil rod before screwing the bolt out. The trick is the heat placed on the bolt only, not the surrounding surface.

I don't pretend that this is the answer for all situations. I only report what I saw with my own eyes one week ago.

Mike A

 

[Anonymous]

you'll do fine here, mike

welcome, ya lurker

chaz

 

[60FALCON]

CobraSix,

What did you use to cut a slot in the bolt? The bolt broke off flush.

Thanks
Chris

 

[DaGr8Tim]

CobraSix,

What did you use to cut a slot in the bolt? The bolt broke off flush.

Thanks
Chris

Depending on the grade of the bolt. A dremmel works great.

 

[CobraSix]

I've used a dremel with a cutting disc on head bolts before.

Slade

 

[60FALCON]

That figures my Dremel burned up and haven't replaced it yet

 

[CobraSix]

My dremel lasted me 4 years of solid service before to commutors (or is it stators) wore out. Sanding all the detail work of my house finally killed it. The new ones are nice though.

Slade