All Small Six Broken Fitting Advice

This relates to all small sixes
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gserafini

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Hey all - so I had a rotten fitting coming out of the thermostat area. I went to unscrew it to replace and it broke off in my engine block.
Was trying to use these pipe fitting removers…but the thing won’t budge.
Anyone have tips or had to do this before?
 

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DON said:
Maybe you can get underneath and pry it away from the threads. Worst case scenario, a hack saw/ jig saw blade, cut it thru to the threads, then with a punch, fold the remains in and pull/twist out with needle nose pliers. It should be brass, so it will cut easy.
Click to expand...
Good point, I just don’t want to destroy the threads inside the block trying to do that
 
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I've had luck using a small torch to heat the fitting up just until it burns off WD40 or something similar. Then hose it down with penetrant. Let it cool a little. This seems to wick the fluid into the threads and the expansion helps break it free
 
Thanks all! Going to give it a shot tonight or tomorrow. Also does anyone know what this figment replacement part is called?
 
Hi, I use square ez outs like Napa CEXTRKIT for broken pipe fittings. The spiral type may be expanding the broken piece into the head. I would try the torx bit too. Good luck
 
gserafini said:
Thanks all! Going to give it a shot tonight or tomorrow. Also does anyone know what this figment replacement part is called?
Click to expand...
It should be just a NPT fitting. Readily available at hardware and big box stores.
Probably 1/4 in if it was a temp sender. Maybe 1/2 in
 
Old school way
get a diamond point chisel and cut a grove down to the threads. Then get a cape chisel and fold it in. Will come right out. That's how we did it in engine room on steam ships.

Don't worry about ruining the threads. Sealer will seal.
 
Alright it was a little battle but I got it. Had to cut a couple grooves and finally I could break it all out. It didn’t want to fold and screw out at all. I did accidentally cut into the block threads just a little bit on one line, hopefully it isn’t that bad and will still seal. Thank you for all the good advice!
View attachment IMG_5994.mov
 
Congrats!! 😎
You might not need the elbow, just screw the sensor straight in. The elbow will have to be tightened till it is oriented properly. It doesn’t need a lot of torque. Maybe 10-15 ftlbs. Will make it easier coming out next time. A little silicone on the threads and it will seal.
 
DON said:
Congrats!! 😎
You might not need the elbow, just screw the sensor straight in. The elbow will have to be tightened till it is oriented properly. It doesn’t need a lot of torque. Maybe 10-15 ftlbs. Will make it easier coming out next time. A little silicone on the threads and it will seal.
Click to expand...
Thanks! Yes i was thinking the same thing, just a straight fitting. Wrench clearance will be better with the end of the headers/manifold area. There's no sensor that goes in here correct? I think it's just a fitting for the heater hose line.
I'm also thinking of running a quick tap through the threads, trying to find the size it's definitely smaller than 1/2npt. Maybe 3/8.
I'm also considering flushing the water jacket while I am here. I have everything off the car and disconnected, except the water pump.
Any tips on the garden hose method? Where to run it into, and what to plug to force it out of one spot so it doesnt spray out of everywhere?
I want to do this before I install the radiator and any of the heater lines
 
Yeah, that's generally the heater hose area for those that use them, though some delete it and use that as a sensor location.
 
I didn’t want to start a new thread so figured I’d ask here. I’m so close to being back on the road! New radiator, heater hose fitting and all lines in. Last thing was the thermostat. The left bolt on the housing went in fine. The right bolt won’t torque down. Gets close then slips out of the threads and spins. Ugh! I weirdly just put the housing on (without thermostat) and did a water jacket flush. Then when I went to put it on again with the thermostat in it, it now won’t tighten. Is this a re tap job on the block? Open to advice ln this one.
 
Sounds like heli-coil time. I would recommend that over going to a bigger bolt. Not expensive and not real hard to do. I’m sure there are lots of videos online.
Then get a torque wrench!🤓🤓
 
Are those bad for the head at all long term?? Definitely will look at it. And I got a torque wrench finally! Went to torque it to 12 ft lbs and that’s when I found it slipped
 
I’m pretty sure the coils are stainless steel. The will be as strong or stronger than original. I have never had or heard of problems long term
If that is when it stripped, then the damage was already done.
After a while you will get the feel of when threads are letting go 👍
 
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