Cam Comparison?

[Anonymous]

Looking at buying a new cam from Mike to replace my 270 clifford cam.

Looking at these two cams...

CSC-274-10-SHS
274/274
224/224
.450/.450
.480/.480
.495/.495
110*
1800-5600

CSC-274-12-SHS
274/274
224/224
.450/.450
.480/.480
.495/.495
112*
1600-5400

I'm leaning towards the top one because it is rated to 5600 rpms vs the 5400 of the lower cam but what is the the reason that they are ground on different lobe centers 112 vs 110 and does it make a noticeable differance??

Thanks,

Doug

 

[Inline6Merc]

The lobe differnace determans the idel. 110 being a lobey and the 112 being smooth. If you are running a manual then i would ge tthe 110. But if you are running an automatic then i would get the 112. There is only like a 2 horse differance betwwen the 110 and the 112.

Later,

Curtis

 

[wsa111]

Doug, if you plan to put in a higher stall converter use the 110 degree, if you are using the stock stall converter go with the 112 lobe center for a smoother idle. You might find with the increased intake duration that your detenation-pinging problem because of your high compression may be gone. You may not need the water injector after the cam swap. The extra duration will bleed off some of the compression. More power to you. William

 

[AzCoupe]

Doug, basically, without changing the lift and/or duration, you can move the power curve of the cam by changing the lobe center. A 110* lobe center will give more midrange, over a 112*, but a rougher idle.

The cam you have now has a 110* lobe center, and 214 dur @.050
The 274 cam has a 224 dur @.050 Longer durations yield more top end power, less bottom end and rougher idle. You'll also have a little less manifold vaccum.

IIRC, You already have a higher stall than stock, right? Or is that still in the works?

 

[wsa111]

Doug, if you plan a cam change, why not consider a change to the 1.65 full roller rocker arms. You are going to have to pull the head off & at that time go to the oil through SBF lifters which are required with the yella terra 1.65 full roller arms. this will give you a double power increase at one shot. You won't have to do a thing for valve springs cause you already have the dual springs on the head.
Get with mike @ FSPP, you have the extra compression to cover the extra duration. Make the right desision at this time will save you future work.
Whatever choice you make will show a definate power improvement. William

 

[Anonymous]

Well,

I'm still running the stock convertor with 3:50 rear ratio. I was planning on getting a Daaco 2500 rpm stall convertor but am thinking about having JPT transmissions making me a custom 2800-3500 rpm one....kinda up in the air with what I'm going to do yet....

I dont want to kill off my bottom end by any means.......even though I like the rumpty-rump of a wild cam 8) maybe I would be better off getting the 112* lobe center???

Although if the cam I allready have is on a 110* center, the idle and low range torque wouldnt change much anyway??

I'd thought about getting the 1.65 rocker arms, but I dont think I would see that much improvement over the 1.6 ratio ones I have now. If I had it to do all over again, I would definitely go with the full 1.65 ratio arms if i was converting over from the stock ones!!

Thanks,

Doug

 

[AzCoupe]

Doug,

I would go with the 274 - 110*, then see how it runs, as you have a the rear gear ratio for it. Then if you have problems, go with a higher stall convertor. No need to spend the money if you don't need to. A 110* lope center isn't going to hurt you off the line, as you power brake and get the RPM's ups anyway.

If it was more of a daily driver, light to light traffic, I would suggest the 112*, but knowing the way you drive (proof is in the photos), go with the 110*.

 

[Anonymous]

If it was more of a daily driver, light to light traffic, I would suggest the 112*, but knowing the way you drive (proof is in the photos), go with the 110*.

Okay you talked me into it...a 110* it is!

I'll PM ya in a little while with my full order!

Thanks,

Doug

 

[wsa111]

If it was more of a daily driver, light to light traffic, I would suggest the 112*, but knowing the way you drive (proof is in the photos), go with the 110*.

Doug, give it a shot, if your idle is poor, you can always go to a looser converter. When you get the cam installed i would be anxious to see if you need the water injection. With the extra camshaft it may bleed off enough compression that you may not need the water injection.
You need to run a cranking compression test with your present combination & then with the more radical camshaft.
for example purposes only with my stock 67 head, which was milled .015 & the deck was cut .015 with the mild crane cam,194 Degrees @ .050 was 175 psi. The engine was very responsive at lower rpm's but lacked top end power. It had a very smooth idle & was very drivable in traffic. with the 80cylinder head milled .070 & the more radial camshaft i hope to be in the 190-200 psi cranking compression. This will require 93 octane but the power will be worth it.
When i get my new combo running i will post its specs. William