cam/lifters

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as you may recall from my recent posts I've been ruleing out various engine issues trying to understand why I've had many issues with a recent rebuilt head. What if the rebuilder used an older manual lifter cam but installed hydrolic lifters? David SoCal
 
The reason I ultimately took the head off this go round, was because my exhaust manifold was glowing red when I kept the engine under sustained load (up a hill 2-3000 rmp for 30 seconds or more). Because I've had this engine rebuilt essentially twice in the past 3 1/2 years, I'm perhaps being a little gun-shy and over critical.
The original rebuild I paid around $1700 for 3 1/2 years ago blew pistons 3 and 4 last summer. When it was all rebuilt this past september and put back together-running, the engine had a stumble, so I pulled the head off (again), and the rebuilder identified a bad exhaust valve. I ran it from october till about a month ago when I smelled what I thought was that 'too hot' paint smell on the engine doghouse (it's a 62 econoline with 200ci) so I popped the lid (still driving) and to my astonishment the exhaust was glowing red from the stock manifold clear down into the exhaust pipe where it turns (I have limited mechanical experience).
Thanks to all the help I received here, I have since this past summer installed a DS II and a Weber 32/36 and a new exhaust tip to tail. I have tried every possible combination of timing advance and carb jets, with no change in the exhaust's apparent temperature (though the engine runs great!) I have carefully checked the cam timing, fuel pressure, vacuum, vacuum advance, on and on.
So now with the head off (scare of burning more pistons), and the head in the hands of a new machinist (different shop, same parent company, still warranty work :? ) the machinist has recognized that the intake valves were not seating properly. He cannot positively determine if this was because the previous machinist was doing shoddy work, or if there is some other factor in the valve train geometry. There are no cracks in the head and the head thickness seems to be normal (I measued 2 heads, the one in question and a spare, both of which were about 2.430 thick measured from the deck surface to a head bolt surface).
So it seems like we're close to having identified darn near ever possible consideration (near as we can tell), and we have decided to go with an adjustable rocker arm assmbly to make up for any unknowns.... I figure therefroe we've ruled out everything except the cam (and I can't help but wonder if the previous rebuilder put an older non-hydrolic cam in with hydrolic lifters, and I wonder what that mismatch might do?).... sorry for the long story... trying to get this right before I have to have my credit limit extended again...... thanks for reading... David SoCal
 
so is the exhaust just running hot after climbing hills? does it only glow at night? Have you melted any pistons since this head was put on? do you know what your timing is while under load at that RPM? it sounds like a timing issue to me or just the motor is making some heat under heavy sustained loads. my old 170 would glow just that same when running on flat ground at 70mph sustained. never melted a piston and I made several trips back and forth to school like that (would top the car off hop on the interstate and drive for 200 miles non stop at 70mph)
 
Do you have a set of adjustable rockers arms? Even though they are made for solid lifters, you can use them on hydralic lifters. If you get a set of adj. rockers, you'll need different pushrods. You can order the lot from Mike at classicinlines.com

Good luck,
 
I'm not sure how to check engine timing while driving? I have a friend who has the rollers in the floor-smog setup that could possible see what the timing is 'under load', but I'm betting it's ok, since it checks out without a load? I've been running it at 14 deg and it advances to about 45 deg at 300rpm.
Certainly, I am not planning on firing the head (which will be readay today) without an adj rocker assmbly...
My main concern is if my previous rebuilder put the wrong cam in with the hydrolic lifters (ie older solid lifter cam)? Wondered if anybody had ever encountered that combo or mismatch, or if they just plain know if that older cam would through off the valve train....thanks..... it's especially good to know others have seen the glowing manifold.... I can only see it at night running it hard.... David
 
14 degrees may be a little high, try backing off to 8 or 10 and see if makes a difference.
And 45° seems really high.
 
I agree 45 deg is way to much... the plug wires are only 60 degs apart so your almost a hole plug wire off .... @ 3,000 rpm's should only be like 28 to 32 deg's when you add static + mech + vacuum advance. all in by 3,000rpm's...
Tim
 
8)

IIRC if you run hydraulic lifters on a mechanical cam you will ruin the hydraulic lifters and the mechanical cam.

I want to say mechanical cams have steeper ramps and opening and closing speeds which will cause the bottom of the hydralic lifters to wear excessively fast and wipe the cam lobes.
 
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