All Small Six Car stalling autolite 1100-----SOLVED

[65convertible]

65 convertible stang 6cyl 200 cid autolite 1100. Auto

I'll try to make it quick. Car has ran absolutely perfect with no issues whatsoever all of a sudden one day no start I've narrowed it down to an issue at the carburetor. I atteched pics.

1. When taking apart my carburetor to rebuild it it did not have a check ball for the spark control and I only had three. two for the diaphragms and the one with the counter weight. how important is this again the car was running perfect without it.

2. My carburetor did not have the vent tube Rod connected to the accelerator pump diaphragm how important is this again never had it and car ran great and I've read that a lot of model years did not come with it anyway

3. I believe the issue is something simple the has to do with my choke valve assembly as whenever is running rough or feels like it's stumbling all I have to do is slightly move that top choke plate and everything else smooths out but once I start driving it's like it's starving for fuel and dies out on me. The shop manual tells you to put it one digit past lean but how can you there's absolutely no timing marks on this thing I'm referring to the black cap

4. For anyone talking about needing a adjustement again this thing was running absolutely beautifully for months so why would I need to adjust any of the needles or mixture screws and idle screws.

 

[bubba22349]

Probally it was runing better during the cold weather? The early model Auotlite 1100 with SCV needs to be reassembled correctly according to its year and equipment i.e. This carb is designed for use with a LOM type Distributor this means it needs to have all the correct parts installed during its rebuild such as the correct sized check balls in there proper locations if you don't have enough new ones than use one of old balls. Since your Carb is an early model with a bowl vent Rod it needs to be hooked up (sometime those rods are broken from being brittle) make sure it operates to open bowl vent it needs to get air into the fuel bowl during operation and it also needs be closed when the engine isn't running this cuts down on fuel evaporation. It dosnt matter that the newer model Autolite 1100 carb's didn't have these same parts you will need them all hooked up for yours to work properly or else you would need to swap your whole carb for one those newer Autolite carb's. Another important setting to get right is the float level setting this can also affect the engine tune and running if its set to high or to low, however just slightly lower is much better than being too high.

Stock Ford Point Ignition Settings For a 1965 200 Six In Order..

1. Spark Plugs Are Gaped .034
2. Points Basic Gap Setting is .025
3. Points Dwell Angle Setting is 38 Degrees
4. Base Timing For Auto Trans is 12 Degrees BTDC
5. Set Carb Mixture Screw to Lean Best Idle with engine warmed up good.
6. Set the Curb Idle RPM to 485 in Drive with the Parking Brake Set.

Most Choke Settings are normally done on the bench during the carb Rebuild reassembly and need to be right before you can start any tuning. To set the black Auto Choke cover look for its Idex scribe line. The choke body that the cover is attached to has a larger pointer on the top of it in center of the metel choke body this is were you count from on one side of the center will be Richer settings and oposite side is the Leaner settings. The Fast idle RPM needs to be set to about 1200 to 1500 RPM, this high idle is correctly set when the choke Is all the way closed so the linkage will reset on the high point Mark it looks like a sudeways V. These settings all need to be set when it's colder like in morning or evening after the car has completely cooled down good. After the high idle RPM is set and the engine has now warmed up to operateing temp you can open up the throdle enough above idle so that the choke linkage will reset off of the choke linkage high point. Check the choke blade opening it should be wide open now and straight up if not loosen the black cover and adjust the cover until it is. For best results recheck the choke postion again when cold.

You can't adjust your carb mixture screw correctly to the lean best idle unless the engines is warmed up good with the choke wide open. After that set your curb idle RPM this will be set to 485 RPM in Drive for a 200 Six with Auto Trans. Hope that is of some help, best of luck.

 

[65convertible]

Probally it was runing better during the cold weather? The early model Auotlite 1100 with SCV needs to be reassembled correctly according to its year and equipment i.e. This carb is designed for use with a LOM type Distributor this means it needs to have all the correct parts installed during its rebuild such as the correct sized check balls in there proper locations if you don't have enough new ones than use on of old balls. Since your Carb is an early model with a bowl vent Rod it needs to be hooked up (sometime those rods are broken from being brittle) make sure it operates to open bowl vent it needs to air into the fuel bowl during operation and also be closed when the engine isn't running this cut ps down on fuel evaporation. It dosnt matter that the newer model Autolite carb's didn't have these same parts you will need them all hooked up for yours to work properly or else you would need to swap your whole carb for one those newer Autolite carb's. Another important setting to get right is the float level setting this can also affect the engine tune and running if its to high or to low however just slightly lower is much better than being too high.

Stock Ford Point Ignition Settings For a 1965 200 Six In Order..

1. Spark Plugs Are Gaped .034
2. Points Basic Gap Setting is .025
3. Points Dwell Angle Setting is 38 Degrees
4. Base Timing For Auto Trans is 12 Degrees BTDC
5. Set Carb Mixture Screw to Lean Best Idle with engine warmed up good.
6. Set the Curb Idle RPM to 485 in Drive with the Parking Brake Set.

Most Choke Settings are normally done on the bench during the carb Rebuild reassembly and need to be right before you can start any tuning. To set the black Auto Choke cover look for its Idex scribe line. The choke body that the cover is attached to has a larger pointer on the top of it in center of the merat choke body this is were you count from on one side will be Richer settings and oposite side is Leaner settings. The Fast idle RPM needs to be set to about 1200 to 1500 RPM, this high idle is correctly set when the choke Is all the way closed so the linkage will reset on the high point Mark it looks like a sudeways V. These settings all need to be set when it's colder like in morning or evening after the car compleatly cooled down good. After the high idle RPM is set and the engine has now warmed up to operateing temp you can open up the throdle enough above idle so that the choke linkage will reset off of the choke linkage high point. Check the choke blade opening it should be wide open now and straight up if not loosen the black cover and adjust the cover until it is. For best results recheck the choke postion again when cold.

You can't adjust your carb mixture screw correctly to the lean best idle unless the engines is warmed up good. After that set your curb idle RPM this will be set to 485 RPM in Drive for a 200 Six with Auto Trans. Hope that is of some help, best of luck.

Thank you so much for your detailed reply . I'm going to try replacing the choke thermostat first as when I compare it to other carburetors once it's fully hot and opened up I'm able to move it around and it does not snap back to its original position like it's supposed to. Remember I live in sunny California where it never gets cold so why would all of a sudden I need to start replacing other parts or adjusting things this car has been absolutely perfect for months on end so why would I all of a sudden now need to add the vent rod that I've never had it before or start adjusting idle mixture screws which I never had to touch before. I will update this if it ends up being the thermostat choke and let you know what happens

 

[bubba22349]

Ok, that little tid bit of info would have been nice to know before this, what, you are now describing is probally that the choke cover spring isn't even installed correctly. The black choke covers thermostatic spring has a tang at its end this needs to be installed in the center slot of the choke linkage lever for it to be able to work right in both directions of travel i.e. To open and close the choke blade by the temperature the spring is operating under. Sometimes people put that spring tang on either side of the lever on the outside from that center slot which just won't be able work right, good thing it's an easy fix once you see it. As you start to remove the cover only crack it open enough to see inside if the Spring is engaged in that center slot of the choke linkage lever. On top of that if the choke blade isn't fully open when the engine is warmed up with a little Spring tention holding it open so the choke can't be operateing correctly very much of the time. In that case of not having a correctly working choke it's also unlikely that the Carb's mixture setting can be at the optimal setting. If you don't need the choke to work In your area of Calif you could also tie the choke blade open.

I was born and lived in Calif for 64 years the majority of it in the SoCal area and also for quite awhile in the Central Valley area. What I told you is what I learned working as a mechanic in Cailf. for many years with their Calif spec emissions systems. But there is also another thing that affects how long the engines will run good in Calif and that's the fuels as you have both the Winter and Summer fuel formulations. Best of luck

 

[65convertible]

UPDATE FIXED

So it was the worn coil on the choke thermostat. The new one was nice and tight i immediately felt the difference in the spring plate return. Had to adjust a bit since i started playing with stuff but its running as should now.

 

[chad]

gud

 

[wakjob]

Thanks for coming back with the issue resolved...
Some many "HELP!" threads in forums on the internet go cold or become a dead end.