Carb Choice for CI Aluminum Head

[65_Stang_170]

Howdy!

Continuing on with my plan for the 250 and aluminum head, I am trying to figure out a way forward for my carburetor. I am probably starting this a little early as I have yet to identify everything, but would like to at least narrow the choices a bit. So here is what I have for information so far: dual valve springs (how can I check for Open/close pressures?), adjustable rockers, aftermarket pistons (pictured below), the guy said it had a "hot" cam (will investigate once I get it on a stand and disassembled), not going EFI, and it has a 4-barrel adapter (so I figure I'll go 4v...). Please let me know if there is additional info required to help make suggestions.






I was reading through the AL Head forum and the tech archive and it seems like there are so many options... I have been looking at Holley 390 and Autolite 4100 (1.08). Do Edelbrock carbs fit on the holley/autolite pattern of the 4V adapter? I can also be talked into a 2-barrel if needed... Thoughts?

Thanks!
-Shawn

 

[bubba22349]

Yes a Holley 390 or 465 CFM 4V (I happen to have one of those) and the Autolite 4100 and Motorcraft 4150's will bolt right on all of those are good choices. Not sure that the Eldenbrock would have a Holley pattern I never used one sure some other site members that have used will know.

 

[wsa111]

If you want to try a highly modified 2bbl this flows close to 400 CFM.
viewtopic.php?f=86&t=81081

 

[chad]

...been looking at Holley 390 and Autolite 4100 (1.08). Do Edelbrock carbs fit on the holley/autolite pattern of the 4V adapter? I can also be talked into a 2-barrel if needed...

Every automotive Q is answered by "What is the final application of the vehicle".

A alu head like this means one is thinkin of a race oriented mo`chine - to me. One would therefore look to mods for the entire suspension, motor, brakes, etc to get the most one could as an end product.

Holley 390 is a 4v or barrel w/390 cfm flow
Autolite 4100...4v................600cfm flow

a 2 barrel, anywhere from........150 to 425 cfm

in simple terms the flow is dependent on the motor sz, displacement (bigger is not all ways better for carbs). As U keep reading the sources U mention google the components mentioned, look at jet changes, etc. Keeping in mind ur SPECIFIC APPLICATION.

An engine is built around the cam, and 80% of the running condition's RPM. (I'm at 1500 - 2,5 3000revs per min 80% of the time). And nxt the octane. Start there - pretty soon the carb answ will pop out almost automatically...

 

[rbohm]

Yes a Holley 390 or 465 CFM 4V (I happen to have one of those) and the Autolite 4100 and Motorcraft 4150's will bolt right on all of those are good choices. Not sure that the Eldenbrock would have a Holley pattern I never used one sure some other site members that have used will know.

the edelbrock square bore carbs will bolt on the holley pattern, and the 500cfm performer carb is a good one to use.

 

[drag-200stang]

Just a reminder to check the cam out with a degree wheel before total disassembly...You need the pistons still connected to the crank to do so.

 

[65_Stang_170]

Every automotive Q is answered by "What is the final application of the vehicle".

An engine is built around the cam, and 80% of the running condition's RPM. (I'm at 1500 - 2,5 3000revs per min 80% of the time). And nxt the octane. Start there - pretty soon the carb answ will pop out almost automatically...

Chad, I guess the final application would be street performance just based on what I have, but a cruiser that I can easily take on the highway for longer trips.

Yes a Holley 390 or 465 CFM 4V (I happen to have one of those) and the Autolite 4100 and Motorcraft 4150's will bolt right on all of those are good choices. Not sure that the Eldenbrock would have a Holley pattern I never used one sure some other site members that have used will know.

the edelbrock square bore carbs will bolt on the holley pattern, and the 500cfm performer carb is a good one to use.

Thank you for the confirmation and suggestion.

Just a reminder to check the cam out with a degree wheel before total disassembly...You need the pistons still connected to the crank to do so.

So, degree before taking it apart... Got it. Can I remove the broken #6 piston and leave the rest? I don't want to risk any damage due to possible debris.

 

[bubba22349]

Yes you can remove that number 6 piston or all the others except for the number 1 piston that's the one you need to have.

 

[65_Stang_170]

Yes you can remove that number 6 piston or all the others except for the number 1 piston that's the one you need to have.

Perfect! Thanks Bubba!

 

[65coupei6]

No carb! Holley Sniper or Fitech efi. I am never going back to a carb. Unless I really have to.

 

[65_Stang_170]

No carb! Holley Sniper or Fitech efi. I am never going back to a carb. Unless I really have to.

Funny you should say that, I just pulled the trigger on a Sniper! Looking forward to the install once I get the bottom end fixed up.

 

[bubba22349]

So how are you doing on the 250 short block did you get the #6 pistion out yet?

 

[65_Stang_170]

So how are you doing on the 250 short block did you get the #6 pistion out yet?

Not yet. Still on the hunt for a well priced engine hoist to get it up on to a stand. Don't really want to break the bank on something I'm going to use twice... I'll update when I get it out.

Also, I've been working on the DSII with MSD 6AL swap and getting rid of the cheap HEI I got from Amazon.

 

[chad]

working on the DSII with MSD 6AL swap and getting rid of the cheap HEI I got from Amazon

I don't want that 'big red box" in my engine bay, nor do I have that kind of $.
Have U seen 'go fast for less" site to use a nice lill "HEI 4 pin"? It's a hybred dsII/HEI that is small, quite avaiable, inexpensive and reliable. Rather than the dsII blue strain relief box use the 4pin...

http://www.gofastforless.com

Rich can talk abt the orange bx mopwr another alternative.
This, along w/bubba's solinoid removal go far in cleaning up the engine bay...

 

[65_Stang_170]

working on the DSII with MSD 6AL swap and getting rid of the cheap HEI I got from Amazon

I don't want that 'big red box" in my engine bay, nor do I have that kind of $.
Have U seen 'go fast for less" site to use a nice lill "HEI 4 pin"? It's a hybred dsII/HEI that is small, quite avaiable, inexpensive and reliable. Rather than the dsII blue strain relief box use the 4pin...

http://www.gofastforless.com

Rich can talk abt the orange bx mopwr another alternative.
This, along w/bubba's solinoid removal go far in cleaning up the engine bay...

Ya, it might not be the prettiest, but I already have it installed and just fired it up for the first time this afternoon. I also purchased a Holley Sniper, and this setup is used by many with the EFI systems with success. Thank you for the suggestions though!

-Shawn

 

[65_Stang_170]

Got engine up on a stand and removed the #6 piston. Starting a new thread...