Carb Issues

[Anonymous]

Ok I'm on my second autolite 1100 (the first was defective or so I'm told)

Anyway I've got the same issue with this one as I did with the last one. Gas is leaking out where the fuel filter connects to the front of the carb. I'm using a fram fuel filter and I've checked several sources to make sure it's the right one. I've tightened the filter by hand and then turned a few times more with a wrench. Also I tried knocking on the top of the carb to see if there was somthing stuck. Outside of fuel leaking on the intake and manifold, the car runs really smooth. Here are the questions I have.

1) the shop manual shows a screen and fitting that goes on the front of the carb, I dont have anything like this on my current set up and I dont recall the orginal carb having any such fitting. Do I need this piece? Could I just run down to a local hardware store and find a fitting that will screw into the carb and then allow the fuel filter to attach as well?

2) Could the fuel pump be bad? Would a bad fuel pump actually have too much pressure?

3) Any other suggestions?

The car has been out of comission for a good 2 months now and the warmer weather is killing me!! I gotta get this figured out!

 

[ski4evr]

I had a similar problem. I used sealant on the threads of the metal filter that screwed into the front of the carb. Snugged it as much as I could - trying not to damage the carb. It stopped leaking. Kind of a temporary fix. I intended on adding a fitting (i.e. replace the filter with a hose fitting) and adding an inline filter between the fuel pump and carb (one of those clear ones) so I would never need to touch the "leaky spot" again. But, now I'm in hot standby for a carb swap so I'm not going that route.

ski

 

[jeffswhite64]

There is a brass fitting that is between the carb body and the fuel filter. I found that without this fitting, the bolt flange of the filter will strike the carb body before the threads of the filter are securely fastened, thus resulting in an incomplete seal and leakage of fuel from the threads. I have been able to carry this fitting over from other carbs, once I was able to locate one. Some teflon tape may assist, but it seams to break down after time.

 

[Anonymous]

A lot of times on rebuilt carbs, they use thread inserts to rebuild the fuel filter attachment threads. These are really only good for one tightening in and out (IMHO).

What I did was put a hose take off in there permamnently with teflon tape on the threads. Make sure the tape does not get wrapped near the end of the threads closest to the carb, it can gunk up the needle valve.

Then I simply used a short length of fuel hose and can remove and inspect fuel filters all day, pull the carb, etc, without grinding up the threads on the carb and potentially putting metal filings into the needle valve.

See my avatar.

Steve-O

 

[Anonymous]

Any ideas on where to get this brass fitting? I've tried pony carbs, holley, who re-built the carb and NPD. NPD had no clue as to what I was talking about, Holley said I didn't need it, and pony carbs didn't sell the part. Can I just get somthing of the right diameter at a hardware store?

 

[Anonymous]

Yes, just take the screw on fuel filter and match it's threads up with a 1/4, 3/8 or 5/16 hose nipple npt threaded insert. Cost about 65 cents.

Of course most of the parts bins I've seen at local stores are usually lacking. Could even try home depot.

Let me know how it works out...may have an extra out in the garage.

Steve-O

 

[Anonymous]

I located one of these brass fitting a few years back at Autozone or Checker Auto, they had pull out bins of brass fittings. Hope it helps. Lowell

 

[Anonymous]

ditto. I got a new fitting at local discount auto parts.

what did you do with your old 1100?

I might be interest in buying it...
chaz

 

[Anonymous]

Just be careful with those aluminum pipe threads. Pipe threads are cut on a taper, so that if you over tighten them, the next time you make up the treads you will have to bury the threads deeper to get a seal. Aluminum is a poor material to have pipe threads in. A fitting and sealant is a good idea to keep from having to make and break the aluminum threads apart.
Doug

 

[CobraSix]

I had the best luck for those types of parts at NAPA.

I had a similiar issue, and I used teflon tape like wsa did. Works like a charm.

Slade

 

[Anonymous]

Chaz: I dont have the previous 1100, I gave it back for a core charge....sorry. I'm gonna try a few of the parts stores and see what I can come up with. I do have one question, how long should the length of the threads be? I assume I want somthing longer than the threads on the filter...

Thanks for all the help so far! I'll let you know how it goes.

 

[Anonymous]

I would think the best bet on thread length is to make sure they ARN'T long enough to bottom out in the carb. A brass or fiber washer between the fitting and carb body and some teflon tape should cure your ills. If your threads don't bottom out before the washer meets the inlet houseing a better seal would be more likely.

 

[Anonymous]

Ok, I've been to 2 Kragen's, Napa, autozone and a local hardware store....still no luck. I'm gonna give home depot a shot tonight and see if I can find somthing there. Does anybody have an extra one lying around? I'm more than willing to pay...

 

[Anonymous]

Good, news! I found the hardware I needed at a local auto parts store. (not a chain) With a bit of sealant, I'm leak free and the car runs great. Thanks everyone for all of the help and advice.

 

[Anonymous]

Good, news! I found the hardware I needed at a local auto parts store. (not a chain) With a bit of sealant, I'm leak free and the car runs great. Thanks everyone for all of the help and advice.