All Small Six Carb questions

This relates to all small sixes

61 comet

Well-known member
What was the purpose of running hot coolant under the carb through the spacer? Can you just bypass that, or is it nessasary?
The power valve on the side of the carb, on any other carb I've worked on it had a cover. Shouldn't these be covered? My carb doesn't have one. I cleaned a mud dobber nest out of there. And wondered why there was a big hole in the side like that. I found images of carbs when I was trying to figure out what all is missing for the throttle linkage.
 
The coolant going through the carb base plate is for quicker warmups and to better adamize the air fuel mixture. If it's usually hotter air temps in your area most of the time you can leave it unhooked or you can make a plastic carb spacer (out of a cutting board) to insulate the carb's base & fuel bowl from excessive heat. Some people hook them up for winter driving or use a manual heater control valve to shut off coolant to that spacer as well as the heater for summer use, and some remove the compleate water heated spacer. The valve on the side of the car your describing is called a spark control valve it controls the vacuum advance on a Load O Matic type Distribitor. Are you using one of those early LOM distributors (1960 to 1967)?

How The Older Load O Matic Distributor Vacuum Advance Works
 
I'm assuming the distributor is the same as the engine. 1966 there's so much I'm still figuring out. Was just in the old tech section
Well looks like it's going to need a carb too. And ignition system.
 
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Yes a better distributor is the best way to go on a 1966 block it's a drop in swap. If you like to keep a point distributor look for a 1968 to 1974 200 or 250 six unit, or you can also use my favorite the DuraSpark II electronic ignition system used stock on all the later model Ford 200's & 250's six'es from 1975 to 1983. I can send you the wiring diagram and instruction for that swap if you decide to go that direction, it's fast and easy to do once you find, the parts. There is also some H.eI type distributors that can be used to. You can mod the Autolite 1100 carb to work with a newer Distributor it's not very hard to do I will put a link below for that info. Best of luck

Drop A Load
 
Lol I just took out the duraspark II. It was setup for the v8. I'm just going in circles. This thing is never going to run
 
Ah it's not all that bad is it, you have did lots on that Comet in a short amount of time!

This is really easy you have two choses from Ok to great.
1. So you could just use that use the Load O Matic Distribitor and the Autolite 1100 carb as they are. This is almost factory stock system for a 1961 Comet the wiring hook ups are even the same as would be for a stock 61 Comet ignistion, only the carb would of be pen a pn older Holley 1904 as used on a older 144 or 170 engine. The Autolite1100 carb with the 1966 LOM distributor is a matched system and will work & run ok. It's an ok system for a bone stock engine and you can add a Pertonix Ignitor and hotter coil for a little bit of improvement to get rid of the points if you want. The LOM's one major drawback is it dosen't have centrivical advance system like the newer distributors all have.

2. Or better still since you already have the V8 DuraSprak II system most all those same V8 parts can be used for the 200 six and it's wired exactly the same too. That is except for needing to get and use a 200 six distributor, with its cap, rotor, and plug wires in place of the V8 unit. Simple and a very good working system, Also see number 3. Mod below.

3. The Autilite carb can be modded so that the DS II Distribitor will see a ported vacuum source this is easy there used to be an article link on this site "Drop A Load" that showed how to do this mod with a couple pictures the link is broken now for some reason. But all that needs to be done is to unscrew the SCV out of the Autolite carb and drill and tap the upper vacum hole (for a small set screw to be installed about a 1/8 or 3/16 inch) that's the hole going up to the Venturi vacuum sorce at the top once that's been plunged off you screw the SCV back in the hole or cap it with a soft plug and your done and you will now have ported distributor vacuum. Best of luck
 
The threads are bad for the spark control so thats not really an option. At least without another carb.
 
Fuel pump came today. It fired right up. Looks like the mud and years did a number on it
 

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No SCV on the carb did someone already mod that Autolite? Which Distribitor do you have can you take a picture of it inside?
 
Here ya go. The guy that had all this stuff past away. No one knows what he had planned or had done.
 

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That looks like an original 1966 Load O Matic unit like I expected. Not sure how he was going to get that to work right without haveing the SCV on the Autolite carb. Maybe he just planed on setting it up with lots of base timing and no advance kind of acting like a locked out Distribor. It's going to be hard to know without being able to really look over the carb and study it. As it sets right now the carb can't control the distributors timing without a SCV. Also missing some of the auto choke parts bad that easy enough to fix.
 
The Load O Matic's only have a vacuum advance they were used in most states from 1960 to 1967, exceptions that I am aware of is because of the California emissions systems the 170's & 200's small six'es then got the newer point distributor's in 1966, everyone else got it in on the 1968 models and were used up to the end of 1974. These later point Distributors if you look inside them you can see a mechanical advance system under the vacuum advance plus they used a different rotor & cap and I think points and condenser were also different too.
 
The distributor looks like it will work just as it is and the is hooked up to carb correctly so that part of the ignistion system should good to go. I think you just need to work on the carb to get the advance system working and you will be good to go. If can clean up your carb getting all that what looks like putty to me or some other crud whatever is that's jammed into the SCV port and vacuum passages than install a new SCV into it will work too. If you can do that than you should be able to use both the carb distribtor togeather you have on the engine now. See below the compleate Autolite tech info and spark control valve SCV info. Then all that left is a lite work on the Auto Choke but that really easy stuff. Best of luck

Autolite 1100

Autolite 1100 SCV

New Autolite 1100 SCV
 
I just saw this thread and I have to thank you... Similar boat that I am sinking in...
the owner prior to me had swapped the motor and put in the 200. The carburetor could not be correctly identified so I couldn’t do a proper rebuild. I eventually did open it up and gave it a good cleaning. Not much improvement.
to sum it up, I replaced the fuel tank and filter, that got rid of the red clay color in the fuel, hmmmm. Replaced the distributor with an HEI, ran better for a bit.... When I was not able to get it to start after it had been parked for a few months, I replaced the fuel pump thinking the diaphragm had failed, this was before my wife asked me if I had gas in the tank....🤣
Once I got it started it was difficult to keep it running, just not able to get a smooth idle.... I did plugs, timing etc over and over, so I finally replaced the carb, new Holley 1v. Got it to run for a while and then it just stalls... Now I am scratching my head, no pulling my hair out because I can’t figure out the simple little thing that I have missed.
Can I buy a vowel, get a life line, or call a friend?
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Have you done a compression test yet? You should probally also start a new post thread on yours though so things don't get mixed up between the two.
 
Still weighing my options on the DS11 as I know its a good system. Just not sure about the carb yet.
Before I do any more I think I would like to get the throttle and shifter linkages figured out. Maybe run it as is around the block
I can't figure out how this hooked to the carb. What's missing
 

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Hi, the screw just tightens the clamp around the neck of the carbs air-horn.
To be clear, the vacuum advance will not work without the SCV. The SCV a diaphragm valve, so I imagine you have a vacuum leak, or else the vacuum port was plugged with that goop after the threads were stripped.
A suitable fix could be a 68 or newer distributor connected to manifold vacuum. Admittedly not the way Ford it, but probably better the what you have there.
The LOL and SCV system is an old design, and the newer distributor is better.
I guess you have vacuum wipers from the looks of the vacuum hose going onto the cowl.
Good luck
 
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