Carb suggestions

[blueroo]

We had family over for Christmas and the phrase that I hate hearing came from yet another person:

"What smells so bad out here?" in reference to the garage.

The smell is my car after running rich. It has a remanufactured (see in dictionary: crap) carb with the wrong parts on it.

What all carbs will bolt onto the heated spacer? I have an 1100 now. Will an 1101 or 1946 work? If all three will work, which has the best performance potential? I want a carb that I can rebuild on the bench and bolt it directly onto my motor.

Any suggestions?

An

 

[fordconvert]

You want to keep the heated spacer or not?

The 1100's are fairly simple carbs. Have you tried working on it yourself? Some research and exploration may turn up the problem and it could be something simple.

 

[bigcatchdaniel555]

If you dont want to go to a 2bbl which would help in the long run for other mods and driveability also power. I would suggest the carter rbs 1bbl they came stock in the early 70's on 250's the only thing is you will either have to bore out your spacer as the rbs has the 1.75 throttle bore or just make your own spacer out of 1/2 inch steel plate.

 

[blueroo]

I did try working on the 1100 I have. Yes it is simple to work on, but whoever put it together during remanufacture used the wrong parts. Additionally I'd like to have something I could build on the bench since the car is a daily driver. I want to rebuild the carb 100% properly and I'm worried if I feel rushed I won't do as good of a job as I can. And yes, I want to keep the heated spacer.

As for the 2bbl carb, I've considered it. I would like to go to fuel injection however so I'd rather not spend the money and time setting my motor up for a 2bbl that would soon go away.

Would the RBS work with the SCV on my motor?

 

[wallaka]

Nope. It'll run, all right, but it will be way down on power.

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy back Blueroo and All:

FYI, the only choices you have in a carb that (1) has a 1.5" throttle bore to match your heater, (2) has a SCV to compliment your Load-O-Matic distributor and (3) be easy to work on are-
* 1961 Holley Model 1908, rated at 150 CFM and used on 170 engines of that year,
* A 1962 Holley Model 1909, rated at 150 CFM and used on 170 engines of that year.
* An Autolite 1100 in 170 size, rated at 156 cfm, in years 1963 - 1967.
* A Holley, universal fit, 1940, for year and engine. Not original and not as simple as the 1100s.

An Autolite 1100 from a 200 will also work, but has more cfm capacity at 185, giving more power, but less economy.

All other one barrels will either not have a SCV and have a larger throttle bore, requiring adaptation and elimination of the hot water heater.

All of the above were manujal chokes until 1966. Comets and Meteors with 170 engines, from 1963 to 1965, had an automatic choke.

While the early Holley's may be simpler, they are scarcer and in greater demand then 1100s.

IIWY I'd be on the look out for a rebuildable core- Junk yards, swap meets, etc.

The only way to differentiate between a 170 1100 and those from a 144 or a 200 to measure the inner diameter of the venturi. 144 = 1", 170 = 1.1", and 200s = 1.2".

Given your circumstances I'd recommend the 1100.

Hope that is helpful.

Happy New Year.

Adios, David

 

[Anonymous]

If you really want something that was done right, you could look at buying a brand new 1100 (not the remans junk) from Pony Carburetors. I've heard they have very excellent work. But not cheap on the $$, though. I think the new one that is coming out is around $400.

http://www.ponycarburetors.com/

 

[ludwig]

I'm definitely going to look at that new 1100. $400 is not much more than the present one and if you have an old 1100 they give you $100 for the core. Definitely more than a reman carb. Definitely better too.

 

[Bort62]

I have to say, the 1100 is about the worlds easiest carb to rebuild. If you can change your spark plugs, you can rebuild this carb.

and @ 400$ for a new one, you can do it about 20 times.

Why buy new? As cheap as it is to rebuild one, might as well give it a try first... you might get lucky and save yourself 400 bucks.

I realize that pony supposedly makes some improvements to the thing to make it work better, and that their new one has an annular discharge venturi... but is it really worth the money? Other than the venturi, I'm not sure how many improvements you can really make to this carb. There ain't a lot there to mess with.

 

[Bort62]

I did try working on the 1100 I have. Yes it is simple to work on, but whoever put it together during remanufacture used the wrong parts. Additionally I'd like to have something I could build on the bench since the car is a daily driver. I want to rebuild the carb 100% properly and I'm worried if I feel rushed I won't do as good of a job as I can. And yes, I want to keep the heated spacer.

As for the 2bbl carb, I've considered it. I would like to go to fuel injection however so I'd rather not spend the money and time setting my motor up for a 2bbl that would soon go away.

Would the RBS work with the SCV on my motor?

What wrong parts? there just aren't that many parts in one of these...

 

[blueroo]

That's the sad part. For how few of parts there are, it amazes me that more than one part can be wrong.

1) Vent rod: The notch comes NOWHERE close to lining up to where it should. In theory it can be adjusted but at the point the tip would be jammed into the housing.

2) Accelerator pump: In order to get the vent rod to be close to lining up, this has to be unnaturally bent

3) Jetting: This carb runs so ungodly rich at idle. I can understand a "generic" jet but this is nuts.

4) Float mechanism: It has the plastic float but the arm doesn't seem to be right

5) I have a manual transmission and it has the body for the automatic transmission.

6) I'm convinced something is really screwed up with the housing as no matter what I do it seeps fuel.


I also saw the $400 A1100 Pony is selling. IMHO it's a waste of money. Even with the "redesign" the carb has very little to no performance potential and you could proabably get almost everything you need for an EFI swap with that $400.

 

[mustangsilly]

I've rebuilt a the 1100 a couple of times and it's really easy, assuming you have a sound carb to start with, i.e. good linkages, no cracks, good float, etc. If you're seeping gas, the float could be out of adjustment or leadking. Check to see if gas sloshes in it.

You could also get a rebuilt carb from a parts house. They come with a warranty.

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy back Blueroo:

IF you're looking for performance potential, look for a rebuildable core from a '65 or '66 200 with a standard trans. The 170 1100 have a venturi id of 1.1" and are rated at 156 cfm. The 1100 described above has a 1.2" id and is rated at 185 cfm. That's an increase you can feel. You will have to retune to yoour situation.

In looking for rebuildable cores we look for 1100s from auto trans cars as the throttle shaft is likely to be tighter. The dashpot function does not effect anything when tuned out. If I were you, I'd post an ad for an Autolite 1100 for a 200 in rebuildable condition in the Classified forum and start your own collection. I must have a dozen carbs right now, some ready to go, some builders and others for parts. I doubt that I have $50.00 invested in the whole stack.

While I have never used a Pony Carb, I would not dismiss them. They offer a quality product, with warranty and service. You're goals go in a different direction. For those that want to go the Pony route, enjoy! Bolt it on and drive!

Happy New Year.

Adios, David