I have a carter RBS carb on my 1962 ford falcon. It runs good, but I can't tune it very well. I wanted to know if there was any better ones and would the Carter Weber Carb for $85 with electric choke from "langdon's stovebolt" be better. Also would the jetting be set for the 200 ford and if not would stovebolt change the jetting for this engine. Help Please!!!
carbs for the 200
- Thread starter MiniCJJ64
- Start date
Everyone has an opinion - and everyone has an ...
'62 with 200/RBS probably early 70's swap?.
The Carter Weber 2bbl -as I've been told -, is too small a CFM rating for the 200 and is intended for multi-carb use by the Stovebolt Inliner crew. The Holley/Weber 5200 (progressive type) has available jetting for larger engines than originally used for including OEM setup for the Capri 2.8 - 170 CID mill. Lots of discussion with this one and varied results. The Holley 7448 (2300) 2bbl reaches or exceeds the limit of usable carburetion for stock 200's.
The rest of the drivetrain and how you plan on driving should be considered. A 70's Carter YF or replacement RBS would give smooth drivability and decent MPG as opposed to something like the 500 CFM 4112 (2300) used commonly on HP built 200's with eye watering rich exhaust unless at WOT.
I personally like the primitive 1904 series with or without glass float bowls. 1904's perform well but provide mediocre mileage for daily use. They either work or don't and tuning is by replacement.
RBS
1904's, 5200's, 1908, YF's, 7448 some others:
2-1904's & a 1908(?) Runs Great!!
'Tried two different 5200's on a built 170 engine. Great smooth performance with one - other one bogs on accel no matter how jetted or tuned ?!.
Powerband
'62 with 200/RBS probably early 70's swap?.
The Carter Weber 2bbl -as I've been told -, is too small a CFM rating for the 200 and is intended for multi-carb use by the Stovebolt Inliner crew. The Holley/Weber 5200 (progressive type) has available jetting for larger engines than originally used for including OEM setup for the Capri 2.8 - 170 CID mill. Lots of discussion with this one and varied results. The Holley 7448 (2300) 2bbl reaches or exceeds the limit of usable carburetion for stock 200's.
The rest of the drivetrain and how you plan on driving should be considered. A 70's Carter YF or replacement RBS would give smooth drivability and decent MPG as opposed to something like the 500 CFM 4112 (2300) used commonly on HP built 200's with eye watering rich exhaust unless at WOT.
I personally like the primitive 1904 series with or without glass float bowls. 1904's perform well but provide mediocre mileage for daily use. They either work or don't and tuning is by replacement.
RBS
1904's, 5200's, 1908, YF's, 7448 some others:
2-1904's & a 1908(?) Runs Great!!
'Tried two different 5200's on a built 170 engine. Great smooth performance with one - other one bogs on accel no matter how jetted or tuned ?!.
Powerband
Ford had two types of HW 5200 and two types of 32/36 DGAV. The problem is the press-in corrector and how the secondary is fueled. When you take the squirters out, one is open , one is blocked on the earlier engines, and there is a secondary route for the fuel. The emulsion tube is different. All three are not easily tracable untill you've had one out. Webers are the worst for emissions and ease of tune...like straight Holleys, they use the saem part for years and for different carbs, but unlike Holleys, the HW 5200 has no experts sharing the information because they require a lot of work to understand the differences.
As you've said, one works, one doesn't. The difference is that the carbs were designed fro manula and auto engines, and there are huge differences. Some manual 2.6/2.8 Capris and Mustangs and 2.0 Pintos had an auxilary fuel valve and no EGR. The auto has an EGR valve and no auxilary fuel valve. Depending on State of sale, transmission and source, you could have the same carb with totally different internal correctors. In my Cortina, I spent 291 buckes getting the wronmg carb to work in my emissions spec Pinto 2000 engine. There were two carbs with the car...one worked, one was a dog. The squirters, brass correctors and jets and emulsion tubes and jets were all different, yet the aftermarket manual says nothing. Even the emissions package was totally different.
As you've said, one works, one doesn't. The difference is that the carbs were designed fro manula and auto engines, and there are huge differences. Some manual 2.6/2.8 Capris and Mustangs and 2.0 Pintos had an auxilary fuel valve and no EGR. The auto has an EGR valve and no auxilary fuel valve. Depending on State of sale, transmission and source, you could have the same carb with totally different internal correctors. In my Cortina, I spent 291 buckes getting the wronmg carb to work in my emissions spec Pinto 2000 engine. There were two carbs with the car...one worked, one was a dog. The squirters, brass correctors and jets and emulsion tubes and jets were all different, yet the aftermarket manual says nothing. Even the emissions package was totally different.
I have a total of three different carbs. I have the carter RBS, holley weber from stovebolt water heated choke, and I got a holley from napa. I never got to run right. I will have to check what holley it is, but I do know it's a one barrel and the barrel size is the same as the RBS.
I also have a problem with the RBS "I THINK ITS THE CARB" if I get my car to run about 1000 RPM and hold it there the car will die. Every time I start to go at a light I have to make sure I have a bit more force to the peddle to get past that RPM range. Then I am driving every thing is fine because I am higher than that range. If I could get this problem past me I wouldn't need a different carb.
I also have a problem with the RBS "I THINK ITS THE CARB" if I get my car to run about 1000 RPM and hold it there the car will die. Every time I start to go at a light I have to make sure I have a bit more force to the peddle to get past that RPM range. Then I am driving every thing is fine because I am higher than that range. If I could get this problem past me I wouldn't need a different carb.
I am going to take a pic of that holley carb I have and I remeber the problems I had with it. Frist the throttle was hard to get right I was using a cable for it and it sucked and second even if I did get the throttle right every time I turned left the car would die.
MercuryMarc
Well-known member
Min-
Have you rebuilt the carb yet? I think you might have a partially clogged main circuit. Make sure to blow out the passages with compressed air (I used a small length of clean vaccuum hose and blew with my mouth since I do not have compressed air). The rebuild kits are available at the local auto parts store (I asked for a carb rebuild kit for a 1974 Maverick 250). And also make sure the extra vacuum ports are plugged.
My RBS runs great on my 250 and was very easy to tune.
Have you rebuilt the carb yet? I think you might have a partially clogged main circuit. Make sure to blow out the passages with compressed air (I used a small length of clean vaccuum hose and blew with my mouth since I do not have compressed air). The rebuild kits are available at the local auto parts store (I asked for a carb rebuild kit for a 1974 Maverick 250). And also make sure the extra vacuum ports are plugged.
My RBS runs great on my 250 and was very easy to tune.
66 Fastback
Famous Member
I'm just guessing here, but I think the RBS was used on later cars in the emission era. I had one on my 73 Comet. To meet emissions, it was probably set up pretty lean. If I recall that car also had anti-dieseling solenoids etc. The point is it could be jetted pretty lean.
What are you running for a distributor. If it is a Load-a-Matic, it will not be compatible with those carbs. There fore trying to get a consistent idle set will prove difficult.
Doug
What are you running for a distributor. If it is a Load-a-Matic, it will not be compatible with those carbs. There fore trying to get a consistent idle set will prove difficult.
Doug
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