Carburetor floods: pressure regulator recommendation?

[edgewood bronco]

This is a 170 with an 1100 Autolite with 2 pumps and a spark control valve. The carb floods out when the engine is hot. I finally parked it when it was hot in the driveway and began to take the carb off, thinking I was going to lower the float a fraction. The gas came out of the fuel line under what seemed like an awful lot of pressure, so the scenario I've got in my mind right now is that as soon as I start it hot - and it starts right up - that the gas level drops, the needle comes off of the seat, and the pressurized gas gushes in and floods it.

Really frustrating, especially when I have somebody telling me 'nice truck' and then I have to sit there for 30 seconds cranking it while the flooded engine clears out.

Reading other posts, one recommendation is to add a pressure regulator to the fuel system. Can anybody recommend one that they are using and happy with?
Thanks.
Andy

 

[powerband]

The Holley 803 / 804 low / high pressure regulators are inexpensive and reliable, add a little gauge and there's more to think about - for fun 8)

Dial-type (MrGskt) type are unreliable and can rupture pumping fuel onto engine - ignition, hot exhaust etc...


http://www.summitracing.com/search/part




Often an old sedimented fuel tank and system will cause erratic flooding problems with no easily discernible cause. Along with a fuel pressure regulator, adding simple inexpensive fuel filters before and after fuel pump can add confidence to maintaining and driving old cars...




have fub

 

[edgewood bronco]

Thanks powerband.
I've got a filter between the carb and pump, like the one you showed. I'll check its condition. The fuel sending unit float melted on the repro I bought, so there's likely to be some random bits of material that was once brass or a similar-looking metal in the tank. I installed the original float (don't throw anything away!) and the gauge is currently working.

Back to fuel pressure regulators, which one to get? Looks like the 804 should be sufficient? Is 4 pounds max going to give me enough adjustment?

 

[powerband]

I've got a filter between the carb and pump,
Back to fuel pressure regulators, which one to get? Looks like the 804 should be sufficient? Is 4 pounds max going to give me enough adjustment?

Yes, the 4 lb regulator should be plenty for most carbs, make sure you can get the right fittings if you're cutting into the OEM 5/16 fuel/brake type lines, Summit or other vendors may have similar closed type regulator better for adapting to OEM.

i use the clear fuel filters under hood in sight ahead of the pump as well with "new rescued" cars.

PS A dial type Mr.Gasket regulator ruptured and pumped fuel into engine compartment until shutdown - very scary!.

have fun

 

[vssman]

X2 on the Holley regulator. I plumbed a gauge on one of the 2 outlets on my set up. Works great. I got mine thru Summit.

 

[JackFish]

Some folks have problems with overheating and carb flooding.
You could consider a regulator with a return line and plumb it back to the tank.

 

[bmbm40]

I don't know how many thousands of miles I put on my Bronco with a stock 170 it was a bunch. I never had a problem like that but I did have three or four clothes pins attached to the fuel line near the carb.

 

[edgewood bronco]

Thanks folks. I'll get a regulator and gauge and hopefully that'll fix the problem. I'm dying to get this thing really drivable. Every time I take it out, I have to hold my breath and that's no way to live.

bmbm, What did all those clothes pins do?

 

[bmbm40]

well I'm not really sure
someone told me it was to prevent vapor lock

 

[Econoline]

imho, the best thing you could do is can the 1100, replace the dist. and go with a yf or similar.

 

[bmbm40]

yeah get a DS 2 and a yf carburetor or auto light from a 200 or 250 non s CV. you may have to make the hole bigger where the carb flange is. you may want to get the Falcon performance manual it has a lot of info concerning larger carbs on 170 s.

 

[edgewood bronco]

I'm just trying to get this thing on the road and reliable.
The more I read about the SCV and its dizzy counterpart, I'm convinced that it's not helping this vehicle or my 62 stepside with a 223 in it.
I've got a 78 Zephyr with a strong-running 200 that I cannot sell, so I'm thinking I'm going to pull the engine and sell the body. Probly most people want an 8 in that anyhow. That'll upgrade the engine, ignition, etc. I also want to pull a page out of bmbm's playbook and put a NV 3550 in it. Preferably all at once. I've got a low mount block, but it doesn't sound like I'll need that. All accounts are that the high mount starter block works in the NV conversion.
Until then, I'm going to go with the pressure regulator and gauge (won't hurt to have that in any vehicle), and get it on the road.
Thanks for the input!
Andy

 

[bmbm40]

Good choice to go to a five speed trans it is a performance upgrade if you have enough motor and/or mindful of your final ratio. If I was going to do it again I would look long and hard at the M50D five speed that came in some f150's in the 90's I think. It would save the cost of the trans to engine adapter and the M50 could probably be had cheap if you looked around. If you want to see a real nice six cylinder Bronco look at a member on here jimmyv65, one of the nicest I have seen.

 

[edgewood bronco]

The more I drive these old vehicles and compare them to my 02 ricer with a five speed, it's not about the power, it's about keeping the motor in the power band. I have come to the conclusion that a 3 speed tranny behind a 170 in a vehicle that weighs about 2 tons has only fleeting moments in that power band.
Perhaps I'm not getting the full potential out of my 170 (my vacuum seems low), but some of it is surely the nature of the beast.
I'm intrigued by the M50D. If it came in some F150s, It surely would serve well in my vehicle - I don't exactly make it sit up and bark. My use will be mostly highway and forest service roads - no lift, no rock crawling, etc. Would that require an adapter to the Dana 20?
I'll check out jimmyv65's ride!

 

[bmbm40]

Yes an adapter to the d20 available from Advanced Adapters. Most likely a 1" body lift also, if you look for tranny swap info at classicbroncos.com they pretty much recommend that. Your rubber body bushings have probably collapsed by now and the 1" body lift gives it a slightly perceptible change in stance for the better. Did the 1"bl on mine, it is a bit of work but not terrible.

 

[edgewood bronco]

Thanks, bmbm.
Reading around on other forums, is the AA kit you're referring to an adapter for a ZF to a Dana 20? Apparently the bolt patterns were the same. I don't see one for an M5OD on their site.
I've started watching Craigslist and will look up some salvage yards here when I get the time.
Does a 170 have that universal bolt pattern for a bellhousing, or do I have to use the 200? Don't have my falcon handbook handy.
Thanks!

 

[bmbm40]

that's a good question I read about & M 50 D swap on classic Broncos but don't recall the exact details of where the adapter came from but as far as I know advanced adapters is the resource for those. if I can find that post on classic Broncos I will send it to you.
I don't know about the 170 block being able to be modified for the small block Ford bellhousing. don't have my Falcon manual handy right now either. but the 170 might be kind of small for a 5-speed transmission with overdrive depending on your final ratio.

 

[bmbm40]

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showth ... ranny+swap
This link should take you to one of the posts on classic broncos regarding the M 50 swap. I remember seeing others.
Just something to consider but if you are going to swap out your 170 for the 200 and the mods required to attach a sbf bell to the 200 it might be about the same work to find a 250 to put in. They are around if you look, I accidently found one at picnpul on half price weekend a couple years ago that came to a little less than 200 with air cleaner and accessories. The 250 in my Bronco right now I found on craigslist for 125 it was a low mileage motor that had a valve job and new carb. They are a bit scarce but not in big demand. The real advantage is you might need to do some performance mods to the 200 but a used 250 in good condition with the five speed you can just drive as is, they have lots of torque. You may be able to sell parts off your 170 to CI like damper and rockers.

 

[edgewood bronco]

Thanks for the link to the post! Helpful to know the ZF adapter works. sounds almost easy...
It's the front end of the tranny that seems like it'll be most complicated, making sure I get everything from the back of the crankshaft to the input bearing retainer working in harmony. Thank goodness for these forums. I can't imagine trying this 20 years ago. Glad to have your help.

For the NV3550, there's a driveshaft length issue with the sixes, I've read (and called AA on it). I imagine there would be a similar issue for the M5OD. Do you find that your rear drive shaft has angle issues? Did you have to shim the rear axle to get the pinion shaft pointing more towards the Tcase output?

 

[bmbm40]

I have never had any problems with pinion angle as far as I know. it's been a couple years since I did this as far as I can remember I had to shorten the drive shaft a little bit . but afterwards I wish that I had done the modification where you moved your axle back approximately an inch in a quarter. this mod is documented on classic Broncos.com. if you look at the rear tire in relation to the wheel opening it will make sense to you.
I forgot to mention the AX 15 as another transmission option but that would require the full advanced adapters Kit.