Carburetor help.

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I HAVE A 1965 FALCON FUTURA 4 DOOR, 6CYL, 200ci, WITH AN AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION. I HAVE HAD ABOUT A YEAR OF TROUBLE FREE DAILY DRIVING UNTIL RECENTLY. IT CURRENTLY HAS A HOLLEY 1940 CARB., BUT I AM LOOKING DESPERATELY FOR AN AFFORDABLE REPLACEMENT. I'VE REBUILT THE CARB,(THE KIT HAD ALMOST NOTHING TO IT), I'VE CHECKED VACUM AND FUEL PRESSURE AND AM STUMPED. I HAVE ABOUT 50 HOURS TRYING TO GET THIS CARB TO WORK AND AM FED UP. DOES ANYONE KNOW OF A MAJOR CHAIN OR A WEBSITE I CAN ORDER FROM? PONYCARBS IS OUT, AUTOZONE, O'REILLY'S AND NAPA HAVE BEEN NO HELP. ANY SUGGESTIONS WOULD BE GREAT?
 
Glad to help if I can, but please stop shouting (turn off the caps lock), it hurts my eyes. :D

More info please:
What ignition system is on the car, and have you made absolutely *sure* that it's in top shape?
What is the vacuum at idle?
How much fuel pressure?

But most importantly, exactly what is it doing?

It's easy to replace carbs, but I don't think much of most sources.

Edit: Oh, Welcome to the forum!
 
I cannot remember the specs off the top of my head, but they were by the book. It has stock ingnition with good looking points, rotor and gap. The problem is, it will start right up but seems to be starving after about a minute or so. It started out flooding, then I rebuilt it and now it seems worse. It wont stay running long enough to get it out of the driveway. I found a replcement holley 1940 at autozone tonight for 99$, but the only version available is the California one. Any idea on the difference? Thanks for the reply, this site is awsome.
 
From memory, the Cali Carb has a smaller venturi - less potential "oomph".

If you can spring for it, an adjustable fuel pressure regulator will help, especially the return style. Fitting one involves a little work, but can make a difference. Modern fuels are less dense than older fuels, and more volatile - it means we can benefit from having extra control over their delivery.
 
I know this is random, but it's worth a shot. The choke interferes with the air cleaner bottom. Remove the air cleaner and try starting it up and see if it does the same thing. It's at least worth a shot...other than that, I'm not really sure unless there is some internal leak in the carburetor. Maybe find someone close who has a spare carb and throw that on there.
 
HI and welcome to the board.....
a couple of things I'd check before spending the $99.oo..... Like stated above pull the air cleaner housing off and make sure the choke is working properly... have someone start it or you start it from under the hood and see what the carb is doing.... it might be flooding it out.... it might be the float set to high or to low??
with the motor cold....
1) if you have a automatic choke move the throtal linkage and see if the choke sets.( it should close)
2) hold the choke open and look down the carb and move the linkage again to see that there is a shot of gas going into the carb. there should be.
3) If all above is working then move on to the next steps..
4) Start the car. (from out side so you can watch the carb). the choke should pull off shortly if not emidetly to alow more air in after the start.
5) if it starts to die can you keep it going by pumping the linkage?
if not then
6) when it dies look down the carb and see if there is a cloud of smoke (vaporized fuel) in the barrel or if it is dripping fuel... if neather then I would say stuck needle/seat or the float is to low, if there is a cloud of smoke or fuel dripping in then the float is to high.

if the car starts and then dies shortly then it is most likely is a fuel delevery probleum.
Hope this helps
Tim
 
All good advice. Let us know what you find.

I hate to sound cynical, but your $99 would be better spent on beer and pretzels. I haven't seen a reman'd carb come out of Autozone/PepBoys/Oreilly/Advance/Whatever in 10 years that wasn't an absolute mechanical abortion.

If you find you DO need a replacement carb, go with Stovebolt, Pony, or some dedicated carb shop.
 
I had a 1940 carb on my '65 Mustang when I bought it. I rebuilt it and it ran like a top. I'm surprised you are having problems. Sounds like a float issue to me. I'd verify that first. Also, when I purchased my car in NC the PO had basically disconnected the choke system (the linkage was so out of adjustment it wouldn't work). I guess the car ran fine in NC, but it sure didn't like NW Ohio where I was living at the time.
 
65Fomocofalcon, I have a 66' 200cid engine with a 1940 carb and Load-A-Matic dizzy. If you read my subject/thread under "Vacuum Question" you will see where I just posted about talking with a rep from Pony Carbs this morning. He told me they have Autolite 1100 carbs that are better supposedly than the orginals; some type of modifications I believe. He acted like they have them in stock; I can't remeber the exact cost, but I believe they were in the neighborhood of $250 to $300 (not sure??). He also said with my carb & set-up that I should not be getting vac @ idle; and should get between 5-7inches @ 1500rpm (in the driveway and not necessarily under load). Good Luck! Jim
 
If it was working well, then stopped, I wouldn't be so quick to blame the carb.
What about the fuel pump? You said it appeared to be starving after a minute.
 
JackFish":14m36wwv said:
If it was working well, then stopped, I wouldn't be so quick to blame the carb.
What about the fuel pump? You said it appeared to be starving after a minute.

Or perhaps a clogged up fuel filter? Just a thought.
 
shmoozo":frp8eskb said:
JackFish":frp8eskb said:
If it was working well, then stopped, I wouldn't be so quick to blame the carb.
What about the fuel pump? You said it appeared to be starving after a minute.

Or perhaps a clogged up fuel filter? Just a thought.




or a pinched fuel line. On mine, the metal line at the tank was not aiming directly at the sending unit creating a kink in the 3" hose.

Kelly
 
I've been away for 2 days and you guys went crazy. I have tried to start it without the aircleaner, no luck, to the same problem. I took the stock fuel filter out and put in a site glass type, same crap.
Alright, to Tim
1) Choke sets, works as avertised
2) Getting a shot of gas
4) Choke pulls off just fine
5) I can't keep it going by pumping the linkage
6) I do get the cloud of smoke, but I have set the floats until I'm blue in the face!! I went by the instructions on the rebuild kit and then tried about a hundred other setting to no avail!!
I'm adjusting it internally, is there a way to do it from the outside??
To all
I've got good fuel flow, but today I noticed that it acts like its starving, but gets the cloud like its flooding. One time it even sputtered like crazy after I shut it off. Im trying not to go the chain Auto Store route, but I'm baffeled. I think i will spring for the Pony Carb, I was also thinking about just grabbin a Motorcraft 2100 or another rebuilt 2 barrel and throwing an adapter in between. Ive found one at stovebuilt and one at
http://www.restoreclassics.com/Holley-2 ... xt=washers.
YOU GUYS ARE GREAT, THANKS FOR THE ADVICE.
C.L.
USN
 
65fomocofalcon":10219rfe said:
...
6) I do get the cloud of smoke, but I have set the floats until I'm blue in the face!! I went by the instructions on the rebuild kit and then tried about a hundred other setting to no avail!!
I'm adjusting it internally, is there a way to do it from the outside??
...
When you say you're adjusting it internally, I take it you mean that you're opening up the carb to get to it, right? That's the only way I know how, but I'm not too familiar with the 1940.

Sounds like it's going way rich and flooding out. I'd look for ANYTHING in the fuel inlet valve, or a float that's not floating. Brass float or one of the black plasticy-looking ones?

When you set the float height, are you following the directions in the kit EXACTLY? I hate to ask 'cause you're probably sick of thinking about it, but (as you likely know) you only have to be off by a very little bit to make a difference.

Hmm...also, too much fuel pressure might be suspect, but it's unusual for a pump to fail that way. Worth checking out, if you can.
 
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