Hello all I am new to this site. I just finished totally rebuilding my stock 1965 mustang coupe 200ci automatic. I had to rebuild the carburetor twice because of leaks. Solved that problem however car won't stay on. If I start the car I have to keep full pressure on the gas pedal to keep it running. And even with that it cuts off after a minute even if I keep pressure on the gas pedal. Anyone have any suggestions on what I can do or check? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
All Small Six 65 coupe
- Thread starter mo1
- Start date
This relates to all small sixes
frozenrabbit
Well-known member
Sounds like something off with the carb, or poor fuel pressure/flow from the tank.
Post in "144-250 "Small Block" Six Performance' section of the forum, this section is for forum issues. More people will see your post there.
Post in "144-250 "Small Block" Six Performance' section of the forum, this section is for forum issues. More people will see your post there.
I'd start with the basics such as having someone press the pedal while observing the linkage to the carb. What kind of carb is it? Are the lines clear of debris? I ended up replacing the tank and the fuel lines on my '66 due to corrosion. The "import" Autolite 1100 copy that was on the car when I purchased it didn't behave well either. It sounds like you're ok on fuel pressure. Did you perform all the bench adjustments before mounting the carb?
frozenrabbit
Well-known member
What carb are you running? How did you set the timing?
I have a autolite 1100 on it. There is no debris that I can tell. And the gas tank and fuel lines are brand new. The car does keep running as long as I keep pressure on the pedal. I also did perform the bench adjustments prior to mounting the carb.
I have a autolite 1100 carb. I took out spark plug #1 placed my finger in spark plug opening and turn the engine until pressure pushed my finger out. Then check the position of the rotor in the distributor to make sure its pointing in the right direction. I do believe I did that the correct way.
No I did not set the timing after that. I'm not sure how to do that I'll have try and find a how to video on that.
Sounds good. Thank you
I'm also not sure I can set the timing without starting the car first. The only way right now I can keep the car running is if I put pressure on the gas pedal. The second I take my foot off the pedal it turns off.
frozenrabbit
Well-known member
Pressure in the #1 cylinder does not indicate exact TDC, just the compression stroke.
Line up the mark on the crank pulley to 6 on the timing cover, then set the distributor.
You need to at least get to a rough idle before you can really dial in the carb, or set the timing.
Line up the mark on the crank pulley to 6 on the timing cover, then set the distributor.
You need to at least get to a rough idle before you can really dial in the carb, or set the timing.
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Thank you but i dont have points anymore I upgrade to petronixs.
Sorry I should have specified. I did place the mark on the crank pulley to 10 . The manuel said 10. And then I set the distributor.
I took the distributor out prior to setting the compression (TDC). Once TDC was set I put the distributor back in where the #1 on cap was pointing in the right direction and the rotor was pointing in the right direction. Not sure but did I miss something I was supposed to do?
No that's good for getting it going. It now needs to be fine-tuned with a timing light. Since the engine won't stay running at idle, verify the timing is correct before going any farther with the carb. A few tenths of an inch off on the distributor makes a big difference in timing.
When the engine was trying to stall at idle, did it backfire or "cough" in the carburetor? That indicates late timing. If it acted like the battery was low and had trouble cranking over, early timing.
Precise ignition timing is crucial.
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