Carter YFA to RBS swap

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I am having a lot of trouble with the YFA mated to the 250 in my Falcon... I it starts up and idles great but sputters and breaks up terribly when revving it up, making it impossible to drive. I converted it to manual choke and have been told it may of had an internal vac leak, so I filled the so called piston hole behind the choke with JB weld trying to prevent this... It still does it, however.

Am I doing something wrong? I am getting frustrated and am considering switching to a RBS... Can it work with my cable style linkage?
 
Can't help you with the YFA problems, but I can tell you that the RBS does work with the cable style linkage.
 
The problems on your YFA sound like there´s something wrong with your acceleration pump assembly- maybe a faulty pump diaphragm or a accelerator rod thats just outta whack.
You mentioned the sputtering and stalling on sudden acceleration only; how is it running on consistent part throttle (sustained highway speed)?

Concerning the RBS,I always liked it for its simple, straightforward design.
Like on most bigger Carter carbs, there are no gaskets below fuel line, the casting is made of an aluminum-based alloy which resists corrosion and distortion better and dissipates heat faster than zinc-based alloys (zymac).

According to the Falcon Handbook the RBS is rated at 215cfm which is at least 5cfm more than the biggest 1.29"-venturi ´69 autolite 1001, or 20 more cfm than your YF.

The downside of the RBS usually is its incompability to most air cleaner bases (reuse or get another original air cleaner assembly) because of the wider carb neck and choke height, which potrudes through the air cleaner base line, thus demanding a mushroom-type- air cleaner which is offset to clear the choke mechanism, but drops down behind the choke ass. to lower the filter element position and allow hood clearance.

The RBS´ throttle shaft linkage consist of a hole drilled into the throttle shaft lever and usually can be converted to any type of linkage - if you want to stay nostalgic, ball joints should be available through auto parts stores and some hardware stores. If you have trouble finding them anyway contact Lokar or any daimler-chrysler dealership that supports classic mercedes-benzes.
 
Well, we tinkered with the YFA for a few hours trying to determine the problem.... I've pretty much decided that I want to replace it, it's easier to spend $100 than fool around with it any more, as it's one of the few things from keeping this car from being road worthy with the little fair weather we have left.

I'd like to replace it with a RBS from a '70 Maverick, but at the parts store they have about 5 different ones listed and none in stock. I'd like if they ordered the proper one.... I need a Ford Part # or something so I can know what to get. If anyone could suggest a carb with a #, it would be greatly appreciated.
 
BTW, the carb is for a '78 Granada 250 with a Cliffy dual header and MSD.
 
No one can spare me a part # of thier RBS carb'd 250?

Pleez help! :?
 
I have an worn out RBS from a '71 Mav 250 sitting in the garage.
I can only find two numbers on it:
G3 6558S
0-2351
Hope this helps.
 
I installed a RBS intended for a '70 Falcon 250... It didn't solve my problem but I like the simplicity of this carb a lot better and it seems to run better in general, not to mention that it's a lower profile so my air cleaner fits A-OK. It's a pretty nice carb.

OTOH, it seems like my problem has to be a ignition problem, I have a MSD ignition in it bought second hand, I think it may be the curlprit.
 
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