Centrifugal advance bad?

Titleist16

Well-known member
Well, I go down to the shop where my engine is being put in and he tells me that my distributor is bad. The springs for the centrifugal advance are bad. I checked the distributor and it looks like it is a 67 dizzy. The carb that is on my car now is a Motorcraft. I don't know if the dizzy is a load o matic or if this carb needs a load o matic dizzy. What kind of dizzy should I get? Does anybody know a good place to get a rebuilt dizzy? By the way, I saw the engine painted dark ford blue with the headers on and it looks awesome. Hopefully I will get to drive it by Christmas :wink:
 
If it's just the springs you should be able to get some spares from a dizzy shop. Use Montego Man's specifications for which springs and weights. The dual advance will probably cope with a modified engine better than a L-O-M.

Regards, Adam.
 
I just bought a remanufactured 68 carb with centrifugal and vacuum advance. Will this dizzy work ok with a mildly built 200? Can somebody post a pic of the Autolite/Motorcraft 1100 carb? I have a Motorcraft carb but I don't know if it's the 1100. Are there any visual things that make the 1100 noticable?
 
I presume you bought a dizzy (you said carb). Look up Montego Man's posts. It's probably been rebuilt with the wrong springs and weights and this can make a large difference.
 
Howdy TitlistI6 and all:

If indeed you bought a '68 Autolite 1100, the good news is that it has no SCV and is compatible with the '68 distributor. The bad news is the venturi is necked down to a 1.1" diameter, reducing CFM from 185 to 150- Not good for performance!

Your shop manual has some good photos of the 1100 carb in section 10.

The areas to check on the distributor are the tightness of the shaft, free moving advance plates and weights and pivot pins, good springs, and the distributor gear. All can be cleaned, rebuilt and refreshed, but if the shaft is loose in the housing it is usually cheaper to get a new/rebuild distributor. Springs, pivot posts, pivot plates, and weights can be cleaned and rebuilt/replaced. The springs should be replaced because, even if they look good, after years of heating cycles and stretch cycles they are likely fatigued.

Check the shaft for tightness by holding the housing in one hand and the shaft at the top and then the bottom with the other hand and try to move the shaft back and forth. If there is a noticeabe amount of play or if the shaft does not turn freely in the housing, it is best to replace it.

A badly worn gear at the bottom of the shaft is also an indication for replacement. If the shaft is solid and turns freely in the housing, just thoroughly clean and lube it and replace any internal parts that appear worns.

If you're replacing at the parts store ask for a distributor from a '68 Mustang with a 200 manual trans/vacuum advance only- no vacuum retard. Check the new distributor with the same thoroughness and detail as you did the old one. Just because you just paid good money for it does not ensure that it is good. Check it over.

Adios, David
 
I dodn't buy a new carb I bought a rebuilt 68 dizzy (sorry, I accidentally put carb). I need a pic of the Autolite 1100 so I can see if mine is an Autolite 1100. My carb says Motorcraft on it but Autolite/Motorcraft are the same so it could be a 1100 but I need a pic to see.
 
If you have ever considered a Duraspark ignition, now is the ideal time to do so.
 
i don't plan on having this carb for long as soon I get some money I'm getting the H/W 5200. At that time I will probably put the duraspark in but right now I have Pertronix.
 
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