CFM question

Zorm

Well-known member
ok, I just picked up a 81 EO head with new springs off a running engine for $30.00 :mrgreen: . The plan is to get the .75 milled off the head so I can put on my 66 200 block. I am thinking about also geting the log milled so I can either direct mount a 2100 motorcraft or a holley 1bbl projection (might make an adapter to mount either one). The projection flows 300cfm, would that be too much with the newer head? I know it would be for the stock 66 200 head.

thanks for any input.
 
+1 It will depend on what else you've done/plan on doing with the car.

A stock 200, with stock cam and valves, with a late large log head requires about 220-245 cfm, according to this Classic Inlines page.

Now if you put a mild cam in there, with larger valves, maybe a little bit of porting, 2V Conversion, you're looking at about 300 cfm, and probably around 30-35 additional HP. All depends on what is done though.

Awesome find!
 
well, I'm not looking for a drag car just something like a daily driver. I just thought if I can add the pro-jection to it, that would ease the drivability. So what size valves should I try and find and what type of cam?
 
Howdy Zorm and All:

While you have the head in for milling, consider investing a three angle performance valve job that includes a backcut on the intake valves. FYI- The E0 casting head will have 1.75" intake valves and 1.38" exhaust valves. They are adequate for most street engine situations. You will likely be buying a valve job gasket set for reassembly. It will include a new set of valve guide seals as well. A set of adjustable rocker arms would be a good idea to get the most out of any cam. And 300 CFM is a good ballpark for an all-around street engine. I don't know haw the Holley projections system is tuned or how tuneable it is, but fuel injection is usually more precise than most carburetion.

What are you planning for an exhaust system? Ignition?

Adios, David
 
I already have the D II dizzy, still looking for a duel output header. Thinking with the intake and exhaust, this will be a nice street engine. what about rigging up a "forced cool air intake"?
 
Howdy Back:

A cold air inlet to the air cleaner seems to be worth the effort in the hot summer months, but, forced air is questionable. It does not work through the grill, but that is a good location for a cool, outside the engine compartment, source. The best location for "forced" air is at the cowl, rear of the hood, in front of the wind shield- ala NASCAR. But that only begins to work at higher speeds.

With your plans for ignition and exhaust, 300 CFM should be right in the ball park.

Adios, David
 
Back
Top