Choke Tube With Headers

[Anonymous]

Hey,

Sorry ive been gone for such a long time guys, just been to busy with work and all. anyhow i help a buddy build up a six for his truck however, he has a 1 barrel carter and we bought a single out header for it. i cant find any way to transfer heat from the header to the carb. I thought about using 1/4 inch copper tubing but i dunno if copper will hurt the carb or not. because if i remeber right the stock one is a 1/4 inch stainless steel.. Any how i would appricate the any help u guys could give me. i would look at mine six but i swaped to a 2300 holly.



thanks

wes

 

[ludwig]

One of the guys, Addo probably, suggested using copper tubing coiled around one of the header pipes and up to the choke pulloff. I used an aftermarket heat collector that uses a pipe similar to the original. Instead of a port in the header there is a little tin house, looks like a little bitty quonset hut with a length of pipe sticking out the end. The tin part is secured to the header pipe with a hose clamp and the tube runs up to the choke cap. They can be ordered in a speed shop if they don't have one already in stock. The metal thingy is about 1.5 x 1" with a little arched space under it. The tubing is the same as stock I6 and you can flare it to fit the brass nut.

 

[TheDude]

This picture shows you how the choke heater tube was attached to the header when the 1bbl carb was still installed. I ripped that dirty fabric off a while ago. The tubing is stainless steel.

 

[Lazy JW]

When I had the headers on my 300 I used copper tubing for the choke tube. Just wrapped it around a header tube and secured it with a hose clamp. Not too pretty but it worked fine. I switched to EFI manifolds and still use the same setup, just wrapped around the manifold.
Joe

 

[mugsy]

I have the single out header on my '65 Mustang and had the same question. All I did was use 1/4" copper tubing and stuck the open end down in the collector, between all the header pipes. Then ran the the copper tube parallel to the #1 and #2 header tubes and put a slight krink in it to go straight up to the carb. I did this to protect the opening from sucking inn dirt. When I rebuilt my carb the first time the entire passage for the hot air thru the choke system in the carb was full of dirt. I also learned that the hot air in the copper tube cooled off due to the air flow from the fan thereby causing the choke to pull off slower All I did was install the high temp cloth wrap from a stock tube. Any type of insulation should work, just keep the air flow off the outside surface of the copper tube.

 

[MercuryMarc]

I gave up trying to locate a solid exhaust manifold- heck - mine works great after I plugged the leaking heat riser. I went to the local hot rod shop and they told me how to wrap 1/4 inch copper wire around the exhaust collector, wrap with heat cloth, clamp, and run the line into the choke mechanism. I did this and I think it will work better than my old system (running aluminum tube over the top of the exhaust manifold then to the choke). Anyway, can you tell me how to tell if the choke is actually disengaging once I warm up? Hopefully I can remove the air cleaner and visualize something.
Thanks-
Marc in San Francisco
1963 Comet Ragtop
200 ci 6, C4 tranny, Pertronix, Alum Rad, Tranny Cooler, Electric Fan, Dual Cupholders

 

[pedal2themetal45]

HI
If the choke is disengageing corectly when you take the air cleaner off, actuely you only need to take the top off to see the top of the carb. if the butterfly is laying wide open then its disengageing.
tim