confused about valves and lifters

[LaGrasta]

I ran into a time bind this week and had to have some maintenance done by a mechnic instead of myself. One item on his list was to adjsut my valves. I supplied the following:
http://www.classicinlines.com/valve_adj.asp

He said it wasn't applicable because mine were non-hydralic. Is that true? Can someone educate me on what I have and what I need to do to them please?

 

[CoupeBoy]

Those instructions appear to be for using The early 144/170 manually adjustable rocker arms on a hydraulic liftered engine. For your motor (assuming you have solid lifters) you would follow similar instructions but instead of taking out slop you would would put a feeler gauge between the rocker tip and valve stem. I don't have the measurements but I could by tomorrow if nobody else here has it.

-ron

 

[LaGrasta]

Yes, they stated mine are solid. I believe they went with "16"?

 

[LaGrasta]

Those instructions appear to be for using The early 144/170 manually adjustable rocker arms on a hydraulic liftered engine. For your motor (assuming you have solid lifters) you would follow similar instructions but instead of taking out slop you would would put a feeler gauge between the rocker tip and valve stem. I don't have the measurements but I could by tomorrow if nobody else here has it.

-ron

Excuse my ignorance, but adjusting it how? The rockersare still adjustable on solid lifters?

 

[CoupeBoy]

OK, dont look at that round bulbous thing (eccentric) in this picture, concentrate only on the cam, lifter, pushrod, and where it attaches to the rocker arm. This picture is for a 223 so the other end of the rocker arm is completely different but this is the only pic I got.

So on your 170 see that nut on the left hand side and how it looks threaded? To adjust your valves you losen that nut and then with a screw driver you either screw the center 'bolt' in or out to achieve proper clearance on the other end (lash). The 223 uses a funky eccentric setup that I've never seen before, pay no attention to the eccentric spring, plunger, or eccentric, they have NOTHING to do with a small 6. Oh and back in the day they called solid lifters 'tappets' FWIW.

Sorry I don't have pics of the 144/170 system, but I can get it if nobody else can help.

-ron

 

[pedal2themetal45]

Yes solids lifters have adjustable rockers... unlike hydraulic lifters where you take all the clearance out because they colaspe (sp). With Solids lifters you need to have a little clearance to alow for heat swelling, and high rev. over lap..( wrong words but I thing you understand).because there is no give in the lifter like hydraulic lifters. so with solids you take them to (like you said) .16 gap with a feeler gage with the lifter on the lowest (bottom/base)of the cam lobe.
hope I didn't confuse you ..,.. I am...
tim

 

[wallaka]

Yep, rockers are adjustable. There isn't a screwdriver needed like on the 223, the adjuster is basically just a 7/16" headed bolt rounded off on the bottom to fit into the cup on the pushrod.

 

[Stubby]

Solid lifter cams have to have adjustable rockers.

There are two different methods for positioning the lifter on the basecircle of the cam while adjusting them.

Stock cam.
1. Set #1 at TDC on the comp stroke and set both rockers. Measure the lash between the rocker and valve. Set to whatever the manual calls for.

Race cam.
2. Set the intake valve just as the exhaust valve starts to open. Set the exhaust valve just as the intake valve closes.
The easiest way to do this is to grab the exh rocker and wiggle it while turning the engine. (BY HAND) When the exh valve is closed, you will be able to feel the lash. When the lifter starts to move, it will push on the rocker and you will no longer be able to wiggle it. Stop turning the engine (the exh valve is starting to open) and adjust the intake valve for that cylinder. Move to the next valve in the firing order and repete and repete.

After setting the intakes, start with #1 cyl and with the intake valve open, start turning the engine while trying to wiggle the intake rocker. Just as the intake valve closes, you will be able to wiggle the rocker. Stop turning the engine and adjust the exhaust valve for that cyl. Move to the next cyl in the firing order and repete.


NOTES
The exh valve often has more lash than the int. This is bacause the exh runs hotter and the exh valve expands more.

Aluminum heads and blocks will often cause the lash to increase as the engine warms up because of the expansion rate of aluminum.

The valves on the small sixes are not symetrical.
exh int int exh int exh exh int exh int int exh

 

[LaGrasta]

thanks for all this info. Just as stated, this was how I knew to do it as well.

I hope that's how my mechanic did it as well. I pick the car up after work tonight.

 

[ludwig]

So if it sounds like shaking a 3 pound coffee can filled with lag bolts...

 

[james singleton]

My Manual, which is for Ford Vans 61' - 86', shows the 1963 - 170 engine having Valve Clearance of .018 for both the intake & exhaust! I would think that your 170 engine would not be any different than the engines in the vans! Below is the step by step procedure for valve "ADJUSTMENT" on the 144, 170 6 Cyl. (Solid Lifters)
1. Start the engine and let it run until it has reached operating temperature.
2. Remove the valve cover and gasket.
3.With the engine idling, adjust the valve lash using a step-type feeler gauge. This type of feeler gauge is sometimes more commonly known as a "go-no go" type feeler gauge. The proper clearance is reached when the smaller step on the gauge blade will pass through the gap while the larger step on the same blade will not pass throuht the gap.
Pass the proper size gauge blade between the valve stem and the rocker arm. If the clearance is corrct, move on to the next valve. If the clearance is in need of adjustment, turn the adjusting screw on the opposite end of the rocker arm with a wrench until the proper clearance is reached. Turn the screw clockwise to decrease the clearance and counterclockwise to increase the clearance. Use the procedure for all of the valves.
Install the valve cover after finished adjusting the valves.
Hope this helps anyone who has not adjusted their valves before! Jim

P.S. My Manual also makes this NOTE: While all valve adjustments must be made as accurately as possible, it is better to have the valve adjustment slightly loose than slightly tight as a burned valve may result from overly tight adjustments.
So La Gastra, I don't know if your mechanic's adjusting the valves to .016 instead of .018 is such a good thing??? Maybe somebody else that knows more on this matter can weigh in!

 

[LaGrasta]

I picked up the car last night, all looked good. They were set at 16 and some ticking noise made me worry on my 1 mile drive home.

This morning I sped off to work, a 20 mile freeway commmute. There was no ticking and it ran fine. I can't say I noticed anything different before or after the adjsutment. Upon picking up the car, I asked ii they were in need of adjustment and he said they did as they were too tight.

Cost me $148. If the aftermarket chrome valve cover stays sealed, it will have all been worth it.