Cooling problems

[Grandmas6]

I just bought a new lower radiator hose from Napa that didn't have the spring. I mentioned it and the person at the counter said it's a design that doesn't need it. I wasn't sure about that, so I used the old one. Just kinda threaded it into the new hose. So far, so good.

 

[wallaka]

The hose I got is reinforced, so does not need the spring.

 

[66 Fastback]

More troubleshooting has taken place. Outside temp at 60° in the morning, I can do 80mph all day. At 80°, it rises over mid point (twice as far as the morning drive) after 10-15 miles of high speed. When I finally get to my exit and drive through the neighborhood, it cools back down to normal. This tells me it's the water pump, no?

I'm not reading something correctly or I don't see the problem. Mid point on my gauges is in a normal operating range. Highway speeds are going to generate more heat.

Does your auto tranny have cooling lines in the radiator?If you want to eliminate some heat you could purchase an external radiator cooler and remove some of the heat from the cooling system.

With regards to timing, static timing is not the only component. Is the vacuum advance and the centrifugal advance working properly? Can you add more centrifugal or vacuum advance without pinging. The more advance you can get dialed in, the cooler the engine will run.

Edit. I just thought about a vacuum leak or a leak in the vacuum diaphram on the distributor. That may not be allowing enough vac advance under cruise conditions on the hwy and the temps will rise.
Doug

 

[LaGrasta]

At 70° outside temp doing 75-85mph for nearly 20 miles, the engine runs at a "quarter". 10-15° increase in outdoor temp and the engines runs at a "half" with the constant threat of rising even more.
I do have an external tranny cooler running with the rad cooler too. I could consider using only the external. Hmmm...
As far as timing, i though retarding helps run the engine cooler, you're saying the opposite?

 

[66 Fastback]

Retarded timing will increase the exhaust manifold temp. I first learned about it on another forum from an automotive engineer / writer who posted this comment below. I tried what he said, and the temps do climb very high. When I have mapped my centrifugal timing with the vac advance plugged, after a while the temp guage gets very hot. But when I connect the vac line up, the temps return to normal.
I also asked him if over-advanced timing causes high temps. He said the pinging or detonation will be obvious with too much ignition advance, and that the temp is not a factor at too much advance.
Doug

For those who still don't think the ignition map makes a difference on operating temperature, try this test.
Disconnect the vacuum advance and set the idle speed up to an acceptable level. Let it idle until the temp gage climbs then take an IR gun reading from the exhaust manifold.
Now reconnect the vacuum can. Give it a few minutes and watch the coolant temperature come down (assuming the vacuum can is properly matched to the idle vacuum chracterisitics). Reshoot the exhaust manifold with the IR gun and note that they are SEVERAL HUNDRED DEGREES COOLER.
Recall that the exhaust ports are surrounded by coolant passages.
So you thought the idle ignition map wasn't important??? Duke