cooling

[72maverick]

Hey guys,

My last 200 had some over heating issues. I'm not sure why. Question is: is there something I can do to the stock cooling system to keep it colder at idle in the city and highway? Just any advice is appreciated.

Thanks

 

[Asa]

Have you ever flushed and/or cleaned out the system? Any hot spots in the radiator indicating a clog? Is the thermostat opening properly? If you have a fan-clutch, is it functioning properly?

I would check those before I dug too deep into the system to make sure they're working properly, if they aren't then you'll need to fix them first.

 

[72maverick]

Well thermostat is new and checked. That's good. No fan clutch.the radiator will be flushed before the engine is dropped in. Not sure how to check for clogs. New hoses. Just want to make sure I can keep this new engine cool. Don't want it to over heat right away so im being paranoid

 

[Asa]

Well thermostat is new and checked. That's good. No fan clutch.the radiator will be flushed before the engine is dropped in. Not sure how to check for clogs. New hoses. Just want to make sure I can keep this new engine cool. Don't want it to over heat right away so im being paranoid

Safest way to check for a clog in a radiator is to get a non-contact thermometer, one of the laser ones. Get the engine up to temp, then scan the radiator and see if there are any spots colder than the others, if you find a cold spot you have a clog.

 

[72maverick]

That I do have. Just need batteries. Any other things I should check

 

[Asa]

You have the fan bolted on the proper way? Is there a spacer that brings it closer to the radiator?
Timing and the A/F ratio could be a factor in causing it to overheat, too lean of a mixture for A/F will cause heat, and I believe that timing too advanced causes heat as well.

Stock from Ford all the older sand-cast engines had a lot of sand left in the block, if you have the engine out I would remove all the freeze plugs and run water through the block while scraping the sides of the interior down with a coat-hanger or something to break up any bits of stuff caught in there. Helps to turn the block onto the front or back edge so that everything you flush does not end up on the bottom of any ridges in the block.


If everything is healthy and flowing well, coolant additives can help out. You should be able to find reviews of most additives out there, for example:
http://www.turbomagazine.com/features/0 ... ewall.html
They use modern import motors, but the basics are the same

 

[72maverick]

Yes there is a spacer and the fan is fairly close to the radiator. I think my timing was fairly advanced last time but now I have new distributor and timing light. And a new car so that news to be tuned and what not.

 

[Soldmy66]

You have the fan bolted on the proper way? Is there a spacer that brings it closer to the radiator?
Timing and the A/F ratio could be a factor in causing it to overheat, too lean of a mixture for A/F will cause heat, and I believe that timing too advanced causes heat as well.

Stock from Ford all the older sand-cast engines had a lot of sand left in the block, if you have the engine out I would remove all the freeze plugs and run water through the block while scraping the sides of the interior down with a coat-hanger or something to break up any bits of stuff caught in there. Helps to turn the block onto the front or back edge so that everything you flush does not end up on the bottom of any ridges in the block.


If everything is healthy and flowing well, coolant additives can help out. You should be able to find reviews of most additives out there, for example:
http://www.turbomagazine.com/features/0 ... ewall.html
They use modern import motors, but the basics are the same

Thank you for the link to that article. I've used the Redline product in the past.

Thanks again.

 

[woodbutcher]

Just a little FYI on the sand cast blocks.Scrub them out VERY GOOD.They will shed sand for years if not decades.Literally.Don`t know for sure how you would seal the coolant passages(maybe Glyptal(R))?And as far as I know,not even hot tanking can get it all.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

 

[72maverick]

Well thanks. One more questions, are there any higher ratio roller arms that won't break my wallet? I've been looking but not sure what size mounts the 200 has. Or do I need a whole new shaft and all that? Just the arms? Thanks

 

[Asa]

AzCoupe/Mike who runs the site and ClassicInlines recently unveiled roller rockers, Don't think we have pricing or anything concrete yet, but they are out there.

 

[72maverick]

Yeah I figured. I've considered that but was hoping for a cheaper alternative ha. They do look nice.

 

[66 Fastback]

It could be a timing issue. My car had overheating issues. If timing is retarded, the engine can overheat. If you disconnect the distributor vaccuum, you can watch the coolant temp climb. Look for too things. Make sure the vacuum advance on the distributor is functioning and advancing the timing both at idle and at higher rpm's. The other thing to check is a slipped harmonic balancer ring. If the timing mark is off, the indicated timing will not be correct when setting timing with a timing light. You may not get it timed properly unless you do it by ear or vacuum.
Doug

 

[72maverick]

Well hopefully this rebuild will take care of most things. New Distributor from Classic inlines. And last time it ran the distributor was turned counterclockwise. Is that advanced or not? I forget. But hopefully that part won't be an issue