Ok
Custom cut aluminum pistons
- Thread starter Tbone3366
- Start date
We don't like to have anything between the oil pump and the engine's oil gallery except the oil filter in a performance engine.
An oil cooler represents an oil pressure drop.
You mentioned "For oiling have the pump run off the crank rather than the cam"
Would this be an external belt driven oil pump?
Firepower354
Famous Member
In tow/haul usage, oil coolers plumbed in with the OE oiling system, are the norm. A water cooled setup wouldn't add much restriction to the oiling side. A HV pump should be plenty. I considered adding a 50 psi relief valve to the end of the oiling system, like a VW (plus Hoover Mods), to avoid the excess load on the pump, and maintain pressure through the temp range and life of the engine. Small slots in the lifter bores, dumping on the lobe, would use up some of the extra oiling volume.
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I meant crank driven with a gear just like how the cummins does it if i remember right, but basically run it under the timing cover, what about running coolabt lines like firepower mentioned?
You do. Big diesels drive everything engine related with gears. Including the air pump for brakes and hydraulic pump or PS as application warrants. Lasts forever. No worries about overheat, etc from a belt going bad. (of course when the WP seal starts to go it leaks into the oil not the ground.) Only thing belt driven- alternator and AC. One very short serpentine belt off a geared-up (gear driven) auxiliary pully. Semi's, the air-clutch radiator fan has it's own big belt, that's the only thing pulling directly off the crank externally.
Yes.
If you regulate the oil pressure at the engine blocks oil gallery rather than at the oil pump, the engine's oil pressure will always be the same no matter what the pressure drop is after the oil pump providing the oil pump can always meet the oil volume needed by the engine.
Ok, so how does 45 lbs at and play around with a test model starting at 65lbs for 100 percent load on a 24 hour load test sound? Then check the bearings and clearances, repeat but with 70 or 75lbs and so on? Theres also a shop here that if i can procure a mold for will cast me the aluminum head to fit exactly, and will price things over once i get ahold of a mold, i know how to make a ceramic mold and heat treat it, just its been some years since the last time i worked in that part of the industry
Now on the subject of oil, i run 0W40 in my 83, ive checked wear on it compared to 10w30 and the bearings and rockers are still in great shape, i just see when testing the 0w40 gets to the top of the engine much faster than the 10w30 but i get pretty much the same mileage, yes i do run the zddp and zinc additives
oil pressure with the 0-40wt? Less than 10-30?
The oil pressure cold with 0w40 is about 44 psi at 700rpm, and 39 with 10w30, warmed up the 0w40 holds 42ish psi with 10w30 at 37.5 and under cruise the 0w40 holds about 58lbs at 2500rpm and 10w30 sits around 51lbs, i do have a new oil pump along with an oil cooler set to 250F
Are either of these conventional oils? Have you tried altering the temperature setting to see if it optimizes anything?
Since it's a new block, just make it a tall deck version and create the pistons with better parameters all the way around as well as the desired rod length. That way you're not having to compromise or settle in between too short of a compression height and squeezing the ring stack too close together by using a rod that's too long.
Christmas starts earlier and earlier each year....
Both are full synthetic by mobil 1, across the board the 0w40 holds better oil pressure
The larger block will hold to power much better along with the 6 bolt head instead of 4 bolt, making it much more friendly to high hp applications but also in street applications less susceptable to head gasket failure
Will likely have to cast it myself, and spend a lot of time figuring the counterweights and the piston weight and such
Im getting everything documented to build one in the following year or 2