I finally got around to measuring the advance for my distributor. I'd talked and thought about using a template with degree markings glued to the crank pulley but they either flew off or I couldn't read them. I ended up spending a little money to get a timing light with the adjustable advance feature (new tool drool ). That made the whole process a piece of cake.
I only went to 3,000 rpm - the engine revs were making me feel a little nervous, even with the emergency brake full on and the tires chocked.
I have the "13" distributor weight as the controlling weight so the maximum value for the centrifugal advance at "all in" would be 13x2+17 = 43°. It's a degree short of that at 3,000 so it would probably be all in at 3100 or 3200 rpm. The numbers and the graph are below fyi.
I used a a length of coat hanger on the throttle arm and another stuck in the hood frame (the metal on the underside of the hood skin), and connected them wtih a turnbuckle to adjust the throttle opening. Even so it was a little difficult to get a steady rpm exactly on the desired value. The worst I saw was 200 rpm off but most are either exact or ±100 rpm. That's why the curve is a little wavey.
I only went to 3,000 rpm - the engine revs were making me feel a little nervous, even with the emergency brake full on and the tires chocked.
I have the "13" distributor weight as the controlling weight so the maximum value for the centrifugal advance at "all in" would be 13x2+17 = 43°. It's a degree short of that at 3,000 so it would probably be all in at 3100 or 3200 rpm. The numbers and the graph are below fyi.
I used a a length of coat hanger on the throttle arm and another stuck in the hood frame (the metal on the underside of the hood skin), and connected them wtih a turnbuckle to adjust the throttle opening. Even so it was a little difficult to get a steady rpm exactly on the desired value. The worst I saw was 200 rpm off but most are either exact or ±100 rpm. That's why the curve is a little wavey.
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