Distributor Curving Question

cr_bobcat

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So I'm going to go get this HEI distributor curved but I'm not exactly sure what to tell the guy. This isn't a DUI so I'm hoping it doesn't have the same issues that others on here have encountered with the rotor binding on the weights, etc. It's going into the old engine and will be there for quite some time because it'll take me quite a while to rebuild the new engine. He only charges $65 to curve it, so if I have to have it done again later, it's not going to break the bank.

That being said, what I think I "need" is about 36* of total advance, reached at about 3000 RPM. I intend to set initial advance to 12-14*. Does this sound reasonable? I believe this lines up with some of the advice I've seen through a number of the threads on here, but it never hurts to double check right?

For those curious, this is what I actually bought:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-INLINE-SIX ... 51b486fcf4
 
Looks like a nice unit, let us know how it works out.
12°-14° sounds good.
If I were you I wouldn't recurve anything until I checked out what the existing curve is with a tach and advance timing light.
 
Good point. I'll give that a whirl first and see how it actually works out. Once I get a chance to wire it in I'll go ahead and post the results here. Stay tuned. Will probably be a week or so before it happens. Busy around here and with HIGHS that don't crack 0*F, I don't rightly want to be in an unheated garage too long...
 
FalconSedanDelivery":1csexkt4 said:
The above numbers are NOT what I would recommend , but then what do I know ? :-)
Then perhaps you could offer something other than your services here.
 
cr_bobcat":141ye446 said:
So I'm going to go get this HEI distributor curved but I'm not exactly sure what to tell the guy. This isn't a DUI so I'm hoping it doesn't have the same issues that others on here have encountered with the rotor binding on the weights, etc. It's going into the old engine and will be there for quite some time because it'll take me quite a while to rebuild the new engine. He only charges $65 to curve it, so if I have to have it done again later, it's not going to break the bank.

That being said, what I think I "need" is about 36* of total advance, reached at about 3000 RPM. I intend to set initial advance to 12-14*. Does this sound reasonable? I believe this lines up with some of the advice I've seen through a number of the threads on here, but it never hurts to double check right?

For those curious, this is what I actually bought:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-INLINE-SIX ... 51b486fcf4
Your numbers are way off.
The major thing is your total combination, compression, cranking compression, transmission, diff. gearing & many other things. I would consider other distributors than the HEI. Mike sells Duraspark distributors. Any distributor you purchase needs to be recurved. Bill
 
Is every dizzy recurve question going to end up being you two guys offering nothing more than advertising your services?
 
wsa111":ymdh9rks said:
Probably unless you have a sun distributor tester & 50 years of experience you would be better off using computer technology such as Jack-Mustang Six posted.
However you still need the expertise to program it properly or purchase one that has learning capabilities.

Wise words.

Drew
 
Well said Faron, its not the tester, but the experience necessary to achieve maximum power & fuel economy.
The sun distributor tester is a time saving tool where one can accurately see when the advance starts & what rpm it stops.
It also displays the total advance be it mechanical and or vacuum.
The vacuum chamber also has to be adjusted for vacuum control & amount of advance at different inches of vacuum.
Sometimes we have to weld or braze stops for both advance types. Time consuming. Bill
 
My engine will not even start if I set at stock numbers, but why would it it's not exactly stock. It wants a lot more advance, then the distributor has to come apart to limt total advance.
 
Thanks guys. I'm not looking to steal your special sauce. I don't work for free either but to be honest my rates are charged in "6-packs owed". :beer:

I just wanna know what to tell the guy here locally. The shop is 2 blocks from my office and I don't have to pay shipping to get it there. Is there anything special about the Falcon 6 that I should bring up? If there's pieces of info that he needs to do it right, then I'd rather walk in the door with a sheet of paper telling him the specifics about my vehicle that he needs to know.

The dizzy that's in there was with the car when I bought it 20+ yrs ago. I helped my uncle install the Pertronix (I helped by watching, maybe fetching him a beer) but it has definitely not been curved since I've owned it. That being said, I'll just go ahead and assume it was never actually done. This means I know nothing about the subject and am bowing to superior knowledge here. All I really know is "me Steve want car go good".
 
so when i read the info, have i mistakingly brought a DUI unit, even though i paid 300 AUS for it, i want what is determined to be the best, while my combo is really just a stock 200 46 year old motor with custom exhaust and the dissy, i do have a new head coming this week and Holley going on shortly. Seeing the setting on this is 24@3000, this may be otherwise fine on the stocker, when a cam and heavily modded head goes on, what then? I know its secret squirrel stuff but hey, i am in Australia, i have tried buying the Handbook, postage is a killer, tried buying it with parts from Classic, and the communication wasn’t great or the fact i couldn’t just order off the website. I would dearly love the book but wanted to share the cost by ordering parts with it to save on postage. I can get it recurved here when i need to i suppose, but if there is no forthcoming advice or so much difficulty in ordering stuff, i am out of here.
 
I sent mine(DUI) to WSA111 to be recurved for my build. His sun went down so he sent it to FalconSedanDelivery for me. They both are very knowledgeable and worth the money to me. Would you have just anybody port your heads. Especially the Alum I6 head since it is thinner in spots and easy to break through. I know Mike had a guy buy one and have his local guy port it. Well the guy almost destroyed the head. You can learn alot on the forum but you still have to pay for info/services. Just the way I feel.
 
well i couldn’t and wouldn’t send a dissy from Australia to the USA, firstly i need to question whether i even have the best as far as performance goes, i even question the HP gains from this setup. Maybe its should be said that potentially the unit has can give you X amount of power, but on a near stocker it doesn’t add up. I need to know now whether i perceivere with what i have or sell it and buy a different system, as i have other mods coming soon.
 
or riddle me this, without letting me know the secret answers, let me know what gains can be had from a custom curved dissy, i cant afford to find out later that my new cam, heavily worked 250 log head with direct mount wont work without the recurving it straight away or it may not work
 
xrwagon":3kw2rm2j said:
or riddle me this, without letting me know the secret answers, let me know what gains can be had from a custom curved dissy, i cant afford to find out later that my new cam, heavily worked 250 log head with direct mount wont work without the recurving it straight away or it may not work

From my understanding it will work. I think it would be like just buying a carb for a modified engine and not rejetting it. It will work but not adjusted to your engine. I hope this helps for you. I would think somebody in Aus would be able to recurve it for you. As long as they understand your setup.
 
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